What type of wood are you all using when replacing rotten wall framing? Im sure this has been discussed but I couldn't find it. I feel like I've read about people using poplar and pine. I'm leaning toward using pine (I think they call it "white board pine" at HD) but I want to make sure that's not a mistake.
I buy reasonably priced wood, without a lot of knots. I've bought special poplar and wasn't impressed with the difference. You won't "make a mistake". Use normal framing lumber, check for warp and splits.
I used regular old pine 1x's. I generally purchased 1x12's in 8 or 10 foot lengths. I could then rip them to whatever width I needed for any specific application. You will find you have a lot less waste doing something like this and it will save money in the overall project. As Vikx states, make sure they are not full of knots, especially loose ones. You will never (I don't think) find a board completely free of knots but just make sure they are clear as possible from what you have to select from.
White wood. It doesn't start to bow as easily as pine or fir when the weather changes or the sun comes out. Strong wood but not too hard. Available at my favorite store,,,,, Home Depot.... Oh wait... Second favorite. I do wish Harbor Freight sold lumber.
God grant me the strength to restore the trailers I can, The courage to strip the parts off the ones I can't, And the wisdom to know the difference...
I was once told by my local builders supply man to never use pressure treated lumber next to (attached to) metal as it would cause corrosion to the metal. I see where it seems none of you use PT lumber...is this right?
Yes most people are of the opinion that it will cause alum to corrode in direct contact. I have seen it done in pole barns but not sure of the results. I don't use it anyway because of the cancer causing chemicals involved with much of it.
Years ago, it would have been a bad thing to do, PT and aluminum. The process has changed, and while it does still contain copper, it is less corrosive now. If the lumber has a tag that says not to use it in contact with aluminum definitely heed the warning. I'm not suggesting the use of it, but thought I'd share from Lowe's site:
Lowe’s Standard Decking and Top Choice Water Repellent Treated wood are less corrosive to fasteners. Our above-ground framing and decking products are approved for direct contact with aluminum hardware, spindles and flashings, even in continuously wet applications. The new preservative system used in our above-ground lumber doesn't require a barrier of protection between aluminum flashings and the treated wood.
If you do choose to use a PT wood, check the recommendations for the particular brand you are considering.
And yes, I've used it at the bottom of my framing over the wheel well. So time will tell. Not too worried about my skins at this point, but would not want the fasteners to turn loose.
The new pt wood with no lead is better they say. If there is a problem what you will see is the skin will dissolve right around the fastener head where it is clamped to the wood. If you see that happening it is to late.
I've used PT as well, before I knew any better. I dried it for two years before using it, not sure if that will help or not. So far, no complaints.
Hey, the nature of our addiction is to improve as we go. Mistakes teach. Anyone can learn and improve! Every trailer I figure out something more, better or cooler. There isn't just one way to build a trailer, either. Lots of different methods give us new ideas...
Pet Peeve: Know it alls who refuse to learn. If we don't grow as we go, there's no improvement...