kaffi311
Active Member
Posts: 283 
Likes: 98
1963 Shasta 16 SC
Currently Offline
|
Post by kaffi311 on Mar 20, 2018 19:32:10 GMT -8
Tried to search for the answer- but had no luck. For my subfloor - where 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood meet- do you need to put anything there to seal it? I am putting luan over it-and staggering the seams so they are not in line with the plywood seams. I just want to make sure I don't need to caulk (ack !!) the plywood seams first?
Thanks
K
|
|
datac
Active Member
Posts: 339 
Likes: 170
1957 Cardinal
Currently Offline
|
Post by datac on Mar 21, 2018 14:17:33 GMT -8
I'll be replacing my floor shortly, and I plan on joining the sheets with biscuits. It'll be a pain getting it in, but should be sturdy and flat. I need to watch my weight, so no luan overlay for me. The factory just butted them up, hit it with adhesive mastic and laid marmoleum down.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,749
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Mar 21, 2018 16:05:26 GMT -8
I like the biscuit idea. I think I'll do that with the Jewel. For Kaffi, if your floor is already in place then just go ahead and use some latex calking and squeeze it down in any gaps and then smooth it out. Then paint your floor with Kilz before you put the sub floor over it.
|
|
cloudlesssky
New Member
Posts: 18
1948 Boles Aero 14'
Currently Offline
|
Post by cloudlesssky on Sept 17, 2020 18:03:05 GMT -8
What's the purpose of painting with Kilz?
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 575
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Sept 17, 2020 18:41:02 GMT -8
The easy and strongest way to make the flooring seams "strong, smooth, and seamless" is to use a wood cleat. I use 1 by 3 Poplar at every seam, except where the steel frame rails are located. I space the four foot plywood sections so none of their seams go over a frame cross member. This allows the plywood seam to be fully supported by the wood cleats. I use Titebond 2 glue liberally on all cleat joints, and I secure the wood to the subfloor with construction screws. I use the gold plated screws so they do not rust. Make sure you run every screw down "to below surface level". This method basically gives you a lap joint.
All my trailers receive Marmoleum sheet flooring. It's critical to this type of flooring that you have "no movement" at any seam because the flooring will quickly crack anywhere you have movement (just look at any old 60 year old trailer with a cracked Linoleum/Marmoleum floor. I also use auto body filler (less than $20 gallon) to fill every screw hole, and every seam. The plywood subflooring is then sanded with a 36 grit belt sander. I like Kiltz (or any primer) when being forced to work with old wood because you can see (and repair) the surface imperfections easier. Any bumps, or any divots will quickly telescope right through your new Marmoleum flooring.
Using this method, I do not need to resort to a "filler wood" layer.
John
|
|
