Post by vikx on Jan 25, 2018 20:51:59 GMT -8
TOWING, GLAMPING AND POPULARITY, an Opinion.
TOWING: My vehicles are considered midsize at best. The Trailblazer is rated at 5K and the SSR at 3500. Neither are what I consider large. The SSR has a hitch but no tranny cooler; that limits the tow capacity. It has the same full frame as the Trailblazer.
Tow capacity matters, along with trailer weight. Tow capacity is what the vehicle is rated to pull without damage. In other words, the transmission and motor are able to pull X amount of weight. Stability is important and not really related to tow capacity. Just because a vehicle can pull the weight doesn't mean it can do so safely or comfortably on the highway or in the mountains. A longer wheel base is more stable, as is a heavier vehicle. It can be very disconcerting to tow when the trailer sways and the vehicle can't handle it.
I suggest to friends that they purchase a vehicle rated at 5000 lbs tow capacity or better. The motor size doesn't matter unless they ask and I will give my honest opinion. My vehicles have V8s. I just don't like the "feel" of a V6. To me, there's no substitute for cubic inches (Yeah, I know they don't count anymore). I've been towing with big blocks since high school. My favorite is a 1 ton dually 454 but the fuel and tire costs are way too high to justify one to tow little vintage trailers.
A Class III hitch is important. Any vehicle with a class III hitch will be rated at 3500 lbs or higher. If the person already has a vehicle, I ask that they research the tow capacity and get back to me. My lightest trailers weigh 1800 lbs dry which increases by several hundred pounds when loaded. (count people/gear/pets/propane/water) In my opinion, the vehicle should be capable of towing twice the loaded weight at the very least. My friends with a 4 runner rated at 3500 had to purchase a sway bar to stop the trailer from swinging and swaying every time a semi passed.
Another important consideration is mirrors. Today's vehicles tend to have close to the body mirrors. They do not allow a good view of each lane on either side of the trailer. This is important if you are planning on buying a new (to you) vehicle. Test the mirror view to see if it will work for you.
I can not recommend selling to a person with an inadequate tow vehicle. I turned down a lady with a Suburu Outback (2700 tow capacity) and another with a Honda Civic. Honda's owner's manual states it is not suitable for towing. It's all about safety. I also hesitate if they own an older Ford Explorer. (well known for instability and roll overs when towing). U haul won't even rent a trailer to be towed by an Explorer. I am guessing the newer ones are safer??
Note: Outbacks will not accept load levelers. The doors can pop open when the unibody flexes. This is straight from a Subaru tech.
Most folks are looking for a small vintage trailer to save on gas mileage and to be able to tow with their current vehicle. (some capable, many not) They look only at weight of the trailer as a guide for purchase. Many smaller vehicles are in the 1500 lb rating. The thing is, The only loaded trailers I've seen less than 1500 are tear drops and small cargo trailers. I weigh mine and do not go by the factory suggested weight.
About glamping: Glamorous decor and camping = glamping. So yes, a person with a small vehicle wants a small trailer. People love to glamp them up and decorate which is fine if the trailer is sound to begin with. Most aren't. One of our main goals on the VTT board is to educate; what to look for in a "restored" vintage trailer and making sure they don't buy lipstick on a pig. It happens every day. Facebook is rampant with fools that gut, patch and goop claiming to know what they are doing.
As far as restoration work is concerned, PICTURES OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN. We tell everyone this all the time. It saves some of them from a bad purchase.
Towing is all about safety. If the vehicle is rated to tow 2700 lbs, it isn't a good choice for a full size vintage trailer. Many glampers have bought bigger vehicles after trying their original cars; they like the stable feeling better. If they live in hilly areas, they like bigger motors, too.
Keep in mind our trailers were towed at 55 miles an hour by very stable 50s and 60s American cars. Some might have been clunky, but they were very steady eddies... My mom's 1953 Olds 88 was NOT clunky...and she didn't drive it like that either.
After restoring, buying and selling vintage campers for over 20 years, I feel entitled to have an opinion. Many of the ideas above have been said by others with extensive experience. It can be risky to ignore this advice. Sure, everyone knows somebody, who knows somebody, who was an exception. Counting on being one of them may be a costly mistake.
TOWING: My vehicles are considered midsize at best. The Trailblazer is rated at 5K and the SSR at 3500. Neither are what I consider large. The SSR has a hitch but no tranny cooler; that limits the tow capacity. It has the same full frame as the Trailblazer.
Tow capacity matters, along with trailer weight. Tow capacity is what the vehicle is rated to pull without damage. In other words, the transmission and motor are able to pull X amount of weight. Stability is important and not really related to tow capacity. Just because a vehicle can pull the weight doesn't mean it can do so safely or comfortably on the highway or in the mountains. A longer wheel base is more stable, as is a heavier vehicle. It can be very disconcerting to tow when the trailer sways and the vehicle can't handle it.
I suggest to friends that they purchase a vehicle rated at 5000 lbs tow capacity or better. The motor size doesn't matter unless they ask and I will give my honest opinion. My vehicles have V8s. I just don't like the "feel" of a V6. To me, there's no substitute for cubic inches (Yeah, I know they don't count anymore). I've been towing with big blocks since high school. My favorite is a 1 ton dually 454 but the fuel and tire costs are way too high to justify one to tow little vintage trailers.
A Class III hitch is important. Any vehicle with a class III hitch will be rated at 3500 lbs or higher. If the person already has a vehicle, I ask that they research the tow capacity and get back to me. My lightest trailers weigh 1800 lbs dry which increases by several hundred pounds when loaded. (count people/gear/pets/propane/water) In my opinion, the vehicle should be capable of towing twice the loaded weight at the very least. My friends with a 4 runner rated at 3500 had to purchase a sway bar to stop the trailer from swinging and swaying every time a semi passed.
Another important consideration is mirrors. Today's vehicles tend to have close to the body mirrors. They do not allow a good view of each lane on either side of the trailer. This is important if you are planning on buying a new (to you) vehicle. Test the mirror view to see if it will work for you.
I can not recommend selling to a person with an inadequate tow vehicle. I turned down a lady with a Suburu Outback (2700 tow capacity) and another with a Honda Civic. Honda's owner's manual states it is not suitable for towing. It's all about safety. I also hesitate if they own an older Ford Explorer. (well known for instability and roll overs when towing). U haul won't even rent a trailer to be towed by an Explorer. I am guessing the newer ones are safer??
Note: Outbacks will not accept load levelers. The doors can pop open when the unibody flexes. This is straight from a Subaru tech.
Most folks are looking for a small vintage trailer to save on gas mileage and to be able to tow with their current vehicle. (some capable, many not) They look only at weight of the trailer as a guide for purchase. Many smaller vehicles are in the 1500 lb rating. The thing is, The only loaded trailers I've seen less than 1500 are tear drops and small cargo trailers. I weigh mine and do not go by the factory suggested weight.
About glamping: Glamorous decor and camping = glamping. So yes, a person with a small vehicle wants a small trailer. People love to glamp them up and decorate which is fine if the trailer is sound to begin with. Most aren't. One of our main goals on the VTT board is to educate; what to look for in a "restored" vintage trailer and making sure they don't buy lipstick on a pig. It happens every day. Facebook is rampant with fools that gut, patch and goop claiming to know what they are doing.
As far as restoration work is concerned, PICTURES OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN. We tell everyone this all the time. It saves some of them from a bad purchase.
Towing is all about safety. If the vehicle is rated to tow 2700 lbs, it isn't a good choice for a full size vintage trailer. Many glampers have bought bigger vehicles after trying their original cars; they like the stable feeling better. If they live in hilly areas, they like bigger motors, too.
Keep in mind our trailers were towed at 55 miles an hour by very stable 50s and 60s American cars. Some might have been clunky, but they were very steady eddies... My mom's 1953 Olds 88 was NOT clunky...and she didn't drive it like that either.
After restoring, buying and selling vintage campers for over 20 years, I feel entitled to have an opinion. Many of the ideas above have been said by others with extensive experience. It can be risky to ignore this advice. Sure, everyone knows somebody, who knows somebody, who was an exception. Counting on being one of them may be a costly mistake.