idaho211
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Solid wire
Aug 28, 2017 17:44:37 GMT -8
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Post by idaho211 on Aug 28, 2017 17:44:37 GMT -8
So looking at my 1966 Kenskill and all of the wires from the breaker and to the invertor are solid core. Is this standard or do you think PO did this?
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 28, 2017 17:47:01 GMT -8
Mine was wired with Romex so I think the 60s trailers could have had solid core house wiring
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Post by vikx on Aug 28, 2017 21:17:06 GMT -8
110/120 wiring is solid copper. If it is aluminum, it should be replaced with solid copper.
12 volt wire is stranded.
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idaho211
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Post by idaho211 on Aug 29, 2017 6:51:36 GMT -8
So in looking at the old wiring diagram in my Kenskill all lights are 12 volt and all outlets are 110. So would all the lights be strand wire? Followed one light and it is solid core to it. The system does have an invertor. I think the wiring is original to the trailer. Should I worry and try and replace the solid wire?
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Aug 29, 2017 8:15:15 GMT -8
It's more related to movement and vibration. Stranded wire is more forgiving of the above.
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Post by vikx on Aug 29, 2017 21:12:42 GMT -8
If the outlet wiring is aluminum (silver colored) replace it. Fires are common in aluminum wired trailers because the expand/contract ratio is different than fixture and copper wiring. I've seen more than one Kenskill with scorched outlets. Really scorched. Here is an example of scorched aluminum wires and outlet: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/36512642630/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 d Aluminum Wiring (3)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36512642630_27ce924914.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="006 d Aluminum Wiring (3)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/36909200285/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 f Fried Alum Wiring (2)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36909200285_264a3f7119.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="006 f Fried Alum Wiring (2)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/36512642200/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 f Fried Alum Wiring (3)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/36512642200_f9359814b9.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="006 f Fried Alum Wiring (3)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> A trailer of that era would have a converter, which is fine to run 12 volt lighting. The wiring to those lights should be stranded. However, some lights have both 110 and 12 volt, so that may be why yours has solid wire. Testing is necessary to see what you have, so don't assume from our guessing. |
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Aug 30, 2017 16:34:19 GMT -8
Agreed, aluminum wire is just evil. Anyone with experience with 80'gm cars can attest to that.
Again, stranded vs solid has more to do with operating conditions than voltage. Many 110, 220,480 circuits are required to be made with stranded wire. Solid is fine for 12 volt under the right conditions.
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idaho211
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Post by idaho211 on Aug 30, 2017 22:19:36 GMT -8
Thanks. I will check it out.
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ckz72reddale
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Sept 19, 2017 18:52:05 GMT -8
We are working on rewiring. We have added a new 15 amp inlet, new fuse box with 2 15 amp fuses and 6 ga copper ground to the frame (replacing old aluminum ground). 1 fuse powers a single outlet and a light, the other powers a new outlet, with new romex. My question is, the existing wiring to the light and the outlet is has aluminum wire. Do I need to be worried about this an insist it is replace with copper, or is 15 amp less of a worry?
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Post by vikx on Sept 19, 2017 21:13:35 GMT -8
If you are SURE it's aluminum wiring, I would replace it. My 71 Red Dale had copper and it's surprising that yours might be aluminum. The trouble with aluminum is that is heats/shrinks at a different rate than copper. That can create loose connections and arcing. I've seen more than one burned out Kenskill from aluminum wiring.
It's mainly the outlets that suffer with aluminum wiring. But still, replace to be safe.
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ckz72reddale
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Solid wire
Sept 20, 2017 4:05:08 GMT -8
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Post by ckz72reddale on Sept 20, 2017 4:05:08 GMT -8
Thanks! Yep it's aluminum. Our ground from the 110 box Was aluminum (replaced. Now) and at least the wire going to the light is. The wire that returns off of the light to the outlet looks exactly the same, so I assume it is, too. The way the 110 was put together, I almost get the feeling it wAs added later.
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ckz72reddale
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1972 Red Dale 12' "Foxy"
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Post by ckz72reddale on Sept 20, 2017 10:01:54 GMT -8
Talked hubby into changing out those 2 aluminum wires to copper. Well, talked father in law into talking hubby into changing them out. Appealing to a grandfather's safety instinct is a winner  I think the other winning argument was that we could run romex to the light and put in a new outlet, all in the upper cabinet, without having to pull the new wiring through the joists with the old wiring. We will end up with one abandoned outlet box with a cover plate, but I'd rather have safe wiring! |
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jnordgren42
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1954 Silver Dome
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Post by jnordgren42 on Sept 20, 2017 16:48:17 GMT -8
Our '54 Silver Dome is a complete rebuild, so for peace of mind I put in stranded marine grade duplex (12v) and triplex (110v) double insulated flat cable for all of the runs. Overkill? Probably, but for the lengths I needed, the expense was fairly reasonable.
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I think the other winning argument was that we could run romex to the light and put in a new outlet, all in the upper cabinet, without having to pull the new wiring through the joists with the old wiring. We will end up with one abandoned outlet box with a cover plate, but I'd rather have safe wiring! 