pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Oct 8, 2013 16:26:55 GMT -8
As you can see from the pic, the roof on my shasta has seen better days. Hail damage etc. This is one of the seams. Looks like a tree branch fell on it and bent it. The dark area is an indentation.The seam leaks and I need to repair it. Any suggestions on the best way to go about it. The interior ceiling is in good shape so I don't want to remove it and a new roof isn"t in the budget at the moment. I was hoping to repair it from the outside. Should I just try to bend it back as best I can and then seal it with proflex or gutter seal? What about putty tape? Thanks camper seam by ToddG58, on Flickr
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Post by vikx on Oct 8, 2013 22:02:55 GMT -8
Unfortunately, your roof may have pinholes from the hail damage. If you're not seeing water damage, that's a good thing. I would put waterproofing tape on the seam underside. (Lowes-very sticky-good stuff) If you can't get to the underside, you can seal from the top:
Clean the area very well. Sand it if you have to and wipe debris and possible grease with a solvent. Warm OSI gutter seal and fill the seam gap. Less is more, don't over do it. When dry, coat the entire seam with Proflex (paint on in the can, NOT CAULK) 2 or 3 coats over 2/3 days.
Gutter seal is difficult to remove and Proflex is permanent. Not pretty but can be painted. I use Proflex on roof seams that have been slathered with Snow Sh*t and Silver slop after a thorough stripping. It's not always possible to replace the roof so the above will allow the old roof to last a few more years.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Oct 9, 2013 4:42:29 GMT -8
Where would I find the waterproof tape at Lowes? IN the roofing dept? So you don't like coating the roof with anything, just the proflex on the seams right? I did find one small hole on the roof. should I fill that with j weld or the gutter seal? Thanks a lot.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Oct 9, 2013 5:23:12 GMT -8
Oh. If I use the waterproof tape on the outside, does that go on last on top of the gutterseal and proflex? Probably can"T paint the tape can you.
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Post by vikx on Oct 9, 2013 9:55:17 GMT -8
Keep in mind that my above advice is a PATCH. You will hopefully get a few more years out of the roof until replacement is possible... Waterproofing tape does NOT go on the outside. Only use it on the under side of the compromised seam. If you can't get to the underside, you won't be able to use the tape. (paint department) www.lowes.com/pd_256699-56131-178657_0__?productId=3077979Also, on Eternabond tape: it will fail sooner or later. Do not use it on the roof. It's good stuff on newer rubber roofs, but the edges tend to lift after a few years. I would not coat the entire roof. Elastomeric Coatings do not seal, they reflect UV rays. Once the coating fails, water runs under and rots the roof metal. Silver Slop is impossible to remove completely but can be sanded smooth enough to Proflex the seams. Use Proflex on the hole if it's small. A larger hole will have to be filled with OSI Gutter Seal (gutter dept.)first. Again, the above is temporary. You can paint the roof to improve the look but it will always be a bit rough looking. The best solution is a new roof.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Oct 9, 2013 11:12:43 GMT -8
Thanks for all the info
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 10, 2013 7:05:24 GMT -8
You really need a new roof Penny. Like Vikx said, anything else is temporary at best. If you do remove the roof to "patch" it, you could try smashing the seam back down but do it carefully. If you smash it too hard you will just open the seam up next to where you smash it.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Oct 10, 2013 8:33:43 GMT -8
This roof is a mess! I did replace the back skin this summer. I quess I should just plan on replacing the roof next summer. I didn't think it hailed that much in Wisconsin, but there are a million hail dents on the roof. Thanks
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 10, 2013 12:26:41 GMT -8
A good tarp for the winter might help keep the rot down.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Oct 10, 2013 14:23:55 GMT -8
She will be stored safe and warm in a neighbors garage for the winter!
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Post by vikx on Oct 10, 2013 22:23:00 GMT -8
LUCKY YOU! Keeping her safe and sound...
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newmexicogal
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Post by newmexicogal on Oct 28, 2013 18:32:46 GMT -8
Unfortunately, your roof may have pinholes from the hail damage. If you're not seeing water damage, that's a good thing. Vikx, I'm so excited about this site! I am the new momma to a '1964 Shasta Compact. My husband and I brought her home this past weekend -- we watched Mobiltec's You Tube videos on my phone most of the 500 mile return trip and I'm excited to see he's here too! I started stripping her paint this this evening. Under the white sno seal goo on the roof looks like there are pin pricks from hail. Should I stop here and work on searching for replacement skin for the roof? I had intended to bondo the hail damage before painting and there's little evidence of water penetration from the roof inside. But, I want to do this right. All advice is appreciated. I'm a newbie.
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Post by vikx on Oct 28, 2013 21:25:36 GMT -8
Welcome Newmexicogal! Congrats on the new baby.
It's hard to know on your roof metal. I would at least try to strip the seams and at the edge trim/J rail. Almost all trailers need to have the edge trim pulled and new putty anyway. (that's probably where the water is coming from) Once you have checked the framing at the bottom (lift the skins)you'll know if the top edges need to be inspected. If the roof has to be floated to do repairs, you can look underneath to see daylight. I pray you don't.
Take your time and don't try to do everything at once. One step at a time. Tarps are your friend over the winter.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 29, 2013 7:03:02 GMT -8
Welcome Newmexicogal! Congrats on the new baby. It's hard to know on your roof metal. I would at least try to strip the seams and at the edge trim/J rail. Almost all trailers need to have the edge trim pulled and new putty anyway. (that's probably where the water is coming from) Once you have checked the framing at the bottom (lift the skins)you'll know if the top edges need to be inspected. If the roof has to be floated to do repairs, you can look underneath to see daylight. I pray you don't. Take your time and don't try to do everything at once. One step at a time. Tarps are your friend over the winter. Hi NMGal and welcome to the asylum... I agree with what Vik says. Kind of the wrong time of the year to be working on the roof unless you have an indoor workplace. More goop isn't the answer. If you spot pinholes in the roof it might be a great idea for a new roof. If you get a tarp for your new baby for the winter make it one of the expensive heavy duty ones. The cheap ones leak water when it starts to thaw under there. Also put a 5 gallon bucket on top with a pillow over the top to protect the tarp from wearing on the bucket. The bucket will make a peak in the middle and help shed the snow. Also put a "T" insdie the trailer made from two by fours to hold up the weight of the snow so your roof doesn't cave in.
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newmexicogal
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Post by newmexicogal on Oct 29, 2013 9:06:19 GMT -8
Thanks to both Vikx and Mobiltec for the advice and encouragement. I just got off the phone with Steve at Hemet RV Siding. I told him he should be giving Mobiltec a discount for the business you are sending his way! A tarp is on the way via Amazon to cover Lula Belle and I appreciate the advice on staging that cover. I am going to post a couple of photos tonight-- there is just a little visible water damage around the ceiling vent but if the roof is coming off I might as well replace that birch panel too. My husband and I did a whole house gut/remodel a few years ago. I quickly learned that the four most expensive words in home remodeling are "while we're at it. . . ." It looks like trailer restoration is about the same. I am wondering what is the standard thinking on renovating the original roof vent versus replacing? I'm not interested in a rally show trailer -- I want something that's comfortable and sound. Should I clean off the tar and sno seal and put the old one back on or simply replace with a newer model? If replacement is advised, my next question is what does the forum recommend using?
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