Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jan 26, 2017 19:09:33 GMT -8
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rbeguelin
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Post by rbeguelin on Feb 8, 2017 18:05:09 GMT -8
Ten,
Thanks for the link. At this point we have repaired the rear corners, rebuilt the box seats, after cleaning with clorax, we have reinstalled the water tank. We have removed the old propane only fridge and the owner has ordered a ac/dc/propane chinese import...we will watch that. I am currently installing a piece of corrugated steel in the bath, as well as a new shower fixture. The sides and rear of the shower will be white board, frp. The owner is starting tomorrow to make a new countertop and we will install the new single basin sink she bought as well as a new faucet. I have replumbed the propane line to the two propane tanks as well as a new dual regulator. After reattaching the propane lines to the water heater and fridge I will pressure check the system. There is a propane light above the stove which is piped from the stove in back of the wall to the light. It does not appear to be in working order...needs a wick at least. I was wondering if she should keep and repair it or just remove it.
We removed both vents and replaced them. The cross framing (side to side) was in very good shape, I only had to replace both short side framing. This goes for the propane vent as well. I fabricated an aluminum collar to fit around all three penetrations. These collars were puttied in place and then the vents were mounted on top of them. We did replace the ceiling panel sheet around the center vent with doorskin. When painted to match the rest of the trailer it will blend in very well.
We visited last week a RV place in Manassas, Virginia. They were very helpful. We now have a newly wired 7 point harness, a portable waste tank and ideas for a new water pump, not to mention a new Dometic toilet which I have yet to install and plumb. I will miss the Mono Chem but I understand she will not!!!
We took the wheels off today 60 + degrees so a perfect time to work outside. Both axles looked good no pitting etc, and the hub moved freely. the electric brakes looked to be in good shape as were the drum pads as well as the drum wall. I do not think they have been used very much, however with no experience with these trailers i cannot say whether they are original or not.
To be safe we are ordering a new set of bearings inner and outer and a seal just to have on hand. The tires were not matching and I am a stickler for that so we will be switching out one of the tires. Both tires looked good, very little treadwear, I just think one tire looks older, with the potential for rot, or weak points that we cannot see.
well that's our update at this point! I hope I can get the owner to post some pictures of our progress
Rob
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highrolla7
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Post by highrolla7 on Feb 9, 2017 14:14:50 GMT -8
Just to add to the discussion. It appears we have the same model shasta. See my post on how I restored mine, has good pics showing finished product. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/7426/1971-shasta-16sc-restoration-completeLooks like most of the issues were answered in prior posts. My original shasta fridge still works well, but took it out because it took forever to cool down. But, once it did, it was freezing! I still have it, but not using it. I went with a easy dorm fridge. I put in a very nice RV toilet, works like a champ. Good luck! |
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rbeguelin
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Post by rbeguelin on Feb 14, 2017 16:07:17 GMT -8
highrolla Nice pictures and restoration, the owner has been talking about A/c - I have been avoiding the subject  Nice solution my hats off to both you and ten. I am going to check elsewhere on this site but was wondering: I am plumbing in a new shower fixture, adding a water supply to the new toilet and installing a new sink faucet as well as a new sink and counter top. All the current plumbing is flare copper tubing, once soft now harder than rock. What would you recommend I replace the tubing with? New copper tubing, easy as all the fittings on the water heater are flare fittings, some sort of plastic tubing or something else- I figure pex will not make the necessary bends? |
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Post by vikx on Feb 15, 2017 23:26:41 GMT -8
Well, you're damned if you do and damned if you don't... I would replace the copper tubing.
Reason being: Many old copper lines are thicker walled than what's available today. It also would swell in freezing temps. Once swollen, the nuts won't fit if you have to re-flare.
I go with 3/8 poly tubing. It is easy to work with. My system is lower pressure and no hot water. I don't think poly would hold up to what a water heater can put out.
PEX is good since you do have the water heater. You will need extra fittings to accomplish the twists and turns. Also, Pex is available in straight sticks or coils. The coil will naturally turn 90* if you need it. I haven't had good luck bending PEX, even with heat, it reverts back to the original shape.
Whatever the material, it should be flexible and resistant to high/low temps.
Post some pix of your solution!
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johng
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Post by johng on May 24, 2018 5:22:01 GMT -8
Hi I am new to the board and hitchiking on an older thread but I too have a 1970 Shasta 16SC which I am trying figure out before I decide to renovate. This is mostly directed to Ten but any help would be appreciated. First problem I have run into is plumbing. I noticed Ten that you replumbed your sink with pvc. Did you happene to save the abs threaded shoes that the baskets went into? and if so would you be willing to part with them. Also has your new system held up to the strains of traveling? Secondly, when I checked all the faucets and toilet, The shower pan filled with water right away. The only remedy was to open the dump. Never having had a self contained trailer (my other trailer is a 61 Airflyte) am I missing something in my system or was this model only made to hook up to a campsite. Thirdly The kitchen window mechanism is missing (replaced with plexiglas)the frame says HEHR- I 4901 151 357 and inside frame measurements are 35 5/8 x 14 7/8 and is supposed to be two pane. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance JohnG |
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johng
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Post by johng on May 26, 2018 9:18:37 GMT -8
update.
Got in touch with trailertrasher and have my window issue solved
JohnG
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on May 27, 2018 9:15:35 GMT -8
Hi johng , Welcome and my apologies for missing this post earlier. I've really had my hands full around here on top of a more-than-full-time job. I did get a chance to look around yesterday, and I am pretty sure that I did not keep the original ABS parts. I have the outlet and the black water tank. It got broken in transit bringing the camper home and I am still considering fixing and replacing that. When I worked on cleaning up the sink, I decided that stainless will clean up from just about anything you can throw at it, however the baskets and strainers were a mess and I had a couple around to replace with. They are sized for a "bar sink", if you decide on replacing yours. The new ones are sized for the PVC tail hookups and connected up easily. I haven't had any leaks since I replaced with the PVC. I'm not sure if I had photos posted of the plumbing, it's been a while and I seem not to have access to the site that I hosted my photos from, so posting new ones would be tough... I used a slip joint adapter on the ABS to run the PVC parts into the original drainline behind the drawers. I have to look to be sure but I believe the grey water line on mine did not have a valve on it and ran freely, past the black water tank line. If yours has the gate valve on the two inch line it would have to be left open when the trailer is in use in order not to back up into the sink and shower pan. Back in the day, it was almost common practice to let the grey water run out to the ground. Modern times require a hookup to either a septic in campground, or use a portable tank. Currently, I am using a porta potty inside and have no other blackwater holding. I use a portable tank for the grey water. The portable tank fills up quick if you forget that you are camping and do a lot of dishes or use the shower! I will check again to see how the original drainlines ran to and past the tank, in case my swiss-cheese memory is failing again! I'm glad to hear you have your window problem straightened out, and I would suggest a good look under the front window behind the siding to check the framing, especially if the window was missing for an air conditioner. The weight in the frame and the moisture and rain penetration can cause problems, more that the normal ones that is. When you get a chance show us what you're working on. |
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Nice solution my hats off to both you and ten.
