shastaholics
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Post by shastaholics on Sept 23, 2013 20:31:16 GMT -8
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soup
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"I hate cold Soup"
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Post by soup on Sept 24, 2013 4:28:44 GMT -8
I Love this!
Cool......No Really...COOL!!
Don't even have to haul the extra weight in Spring, Winter, or Fall.
I especially like the garage door handles.....Awesome!
I'm thinking top of closet wall ducts and vents for us.
What to cover it with, above it, for rain?..........
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Sept 24, 2013 4:52:40 GMT -8
really clever.
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Sept 24, 2013 7:54:24 GMT -8
I LIKE THIS IDEA.. THE PO HAS CUT A HOLE IN THE VERTICAL PANEL FOR A SPEAKER IN OURS. (LEFT OF THE DOOR SIDE) I REMOVED THE SPEAKER CONE BUT LEFT THE GRILL MOUNTED IN PLACE TO COVER THE HOLE. I RARELY USE THAT COMPARTMENT UNDER THAT SEAT FOR MUCH. ... WOULD ONE HAVE TO HAVE THE "RETURN - AIR OUT" VENT?.
I'D THINK THAT AN OPENED WINDOW WOULD SERVE THE SAME PURPOSE. YOU CAN GET A SMALL WINDOW UNIT FAIRLEY CHEAP RIGHT NOW AS WELL.. YOU COULD FRAME IT OUT, PUT IT ON A LITTLE PALLET...THEN THE DUCT.... THIS HAS GOT ME THINKING... THANKS FOR THE TIP
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shastaholics
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Post by shastaholics on Sept 24, 2013 8:42:53 GMT -8
Hi Soup, Some fine Southern engineering aye?
I duct taped the heck out of the front of the unit and left just the digital control exposed so that I could use the remote although it's soooo hot here in SC, We turn the air on high and forget about it until we pack back up. If you think about how these units hang out a house window, most of the unit is exposed to the elements anyways so I didn't feel a cover was necessary. I do place it pretty snug to the front of my Loflyte and the Loflytes have that jut sticking out the front so that does help with the rain I'm sure. Depending on the A/C unit size, you could slide the unit underneath your camper. What's the old saying? "All things are possible with duct tape and a hammer"
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dsadki
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Post by dsadki on Sept 24, 2013 9:34:12 GMT -8
We do pretty much do this same thing with our AC here in TN in the summer. I put a card table over ours with a vinyl tablecloth. I try to keep the cord and front of AC from being exposed to rain. It also hides it somewhat and you have an extra table to put stuff on. LOL
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Paul
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Post by Paul on Dec 1, 2013 10:47:36 GMT -8
Okay Shastaholic, you have me thinking. I have a 1972 sc.....I don't want to instal a unit that I'll hang out a window and don't really have another place to put it. I have a small rear cargo door that opens up under the couch. I was thinking that I could place the ac on the ground, under this rear cargo door and run the two vent hoses under the couch and have them connect to two screened openings that I create. Do you anticipate any problems with this potential setup?
Also, a few other questions.
The vent hoses look large. Do they need to be that big?
What size ac unit are you running, what size is your trailer and have you found that it handles all cooling needs fairly well?
Any insight that you could give me would be very appreciated
Also, anyone else that has an opinion, please sound off.
What a great forum.
Thank you,
Paul
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Dec 2, 2013 10:39:43 GMT -8
Climate Right makes a pricey A/C unit that is just what you did. A fellow teardropper also did a very similar thing. You can buy just the kit with the really neat vents that cap when not in use.  There's a video that shows the installation procedure. www.climaterightair.com/rv-trailer-air-conditioning-and-heatingI'm considering doing the same thing or installing an a/c unit where my icebox is and venting it, using the icebox drain for the a/c drain. |
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shastaholics
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Post by shastaholics on Dec 22, 2013 7:04:06 GMT -8
Hi Paul,
Sorry for the slow response! Some of us campaholics do let work get in the way of all our fun!! I would think a smaller diameter hose setup like SuzyQ posted would be fine although those hoses are not insulated like the flex hose I use. Another concern would be that the metal hose may not just slide on and stay put when installed from underneath. I sort of gather the flex hose up and wedge it against the ground so that it pushes upward toward the connections , no clamps etc needed this way. Maybe there is a smaller diameter insulated flex hose available? That being said, I am probably overthinking the whole setup.....
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Post by bigbill on Dec 24, 2013 14:49:12 GMT -8
Paul I just was reading your post The size of hose is controlled by the cfm of air flow and the length of the run, also how well it will work is governed by the btu output and the condition of the complete A/C unit. Also the hose should be insulated to prevent outside temps from effecting final results and to help prevent condensation in the hose.
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Nomad95336
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1961 Nomad 16'
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Post by Nomad95336 on Dec 26, 2013 1:46:05 GMT -8
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jan 15, 2014 17:52:25 GMT -8
Climate Right makes a pricey A/C unit that is just what you did. A fellow teardropper also did a very similar thing. You can buy just the kit with the really neat vents that cap when not in use. There's a video that shows the installation procedure. www.climaterightair.com/rv-trailer-air-conditioning-and-heatingI'm considering doing the same thing or installing an a/c unit where my icebox is and venting it, using the icebox drain for the a/c drain. This is exactly what I've been looking for! I was hoping to find a solution that didn't require any space and this is perfect! You all have just made my day.  |
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jan 15, 2014 18:13:11 GMT -8
I know several people who have these units and they are quite pleased with them. It is also a very nice company to deal with, I met them at a rally. If I had the $$$ would have one especially since I could use the one unit in both of my campers.
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