|
Post by negativerobot on Jun 21, 2021 9:16:43 GMT -8
OMG nc, I didn't realize that your forester was the trailer you spent weeks stripping, bummer. Sam got a funny look today while we were visiting my parents and I mentioned I was pricing new skin for the entire trailer. He said if he'd known I wanted to replace all the skin he wouldn't have fought so hard for so long to remove all the old paint. I told him that at the time I didn't think we could afford it, but now I'm wondering if we can. You just can't make some people happy 😇 I feel Sam's pain. I never did a deep restore on the Forester because it was usable and other campers kept taking it's place in the queue. The right way to handle the skin (as nobody knows better than me and Sam) is do the repairs before stripping the paint. Once the repairs are done you can reinstall the skin and get out the Toxic chemical. O'well, life is a learning curve. When you say it’s better to do the repairs before stripping the paint, what do you mean? I am going to tackle my first vintage trailer this year and I have no idea where to start! Do I remove the paint before removing the skins to get to the wood rot? Or just remove the skins and deal with the paint when I eventually get around to putting the skins back on? Help! Haha
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 21, 2021 10:49:54 GMT -8
"Do the repairs before you strip the skin." Start: 1. Remove the edge trim (j rail and awning rail) 2. Remove staples and nails anchoring the front and rear skins. (both sides then lower) 3. Remove staples/nails at lower edge of the siding 4. Unscrew and pull windows and doors, along with side protrusions (water fill, electrical, etc) 5. STRAIGHTEN THE FOLDED EDGES ON THE FRONT, REAR and ROOF METAL. Remove the trailer metal. The roof can be slid side to side, hung above or rolled and taken off the trailer. 6. Gently lift the front and rear skins. The lower piece should slip off. 7. Remove lower side skins. Then remove upper skins and roof. 8. Remove and repair rot in the wood framing. Pay special attention to sills and floor joists-they hold the trailer to the metal frame. 9. Repair and/or add electrical wiring. 10. Add support backers for electrical, plumbing and other things that attach on the inside 11. Insulate. Glue and fill any old screw holes and repair flaws. 12. Skin and roof go back on. You can order my book here: vintagetrailerrepairmanual.weebly.com/ Note: Straighten the edges means to flatten or un fold the bend in the metal. If you move the metal before this step, it will tear and rip.
|
|