windborn
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1957 Sportcraft 15
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Post by windborn on Oct 19, 2016 12:25:01 GMT -8
I'm bringing my camper in for a quote for a new electrical system this Saturday so need to start finalizing plans. I've simplified what I want for a system and I'll just be doing everything 110v for now, with hopes to one day upgrade to a battery & solar. I thought I was going to move my power inlet & breaker box to the lower street side bench -- it's currently up high in the kitchen cabinets. But now I'm wondering if that would be an inconvenient place for the breakers? Will I be accessing that a lot? Where does everyone else have theirs?
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Post by bigbill on Oct 19, 2016 19:28:10 GMT -8
This depends on how often you blow a breaker/fuse. I am putting mine on my current trailer on the front street side lower cabinet/seat box. I prefer the street side as it helps keep the shore line out of the main traffic pattern. I will have multiple circuits so the odds of blowing a breaker will be very slim.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Oct 19, 2016 19:51:16 GMT -8
I put it in the dinette seat box on the street side in our Shasta but I'm doing the other side on the Forester to leave the street side free if we want a water tank.
Being on the curb side means running a lot more wire. Not a problem in a camper with 1 5/8" walls but hard to do on a camper with 3/4" walls.
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Post by vikx on Oct 19, 2016 20:45:51 GMT -8
If I'm installing an all new system, I usually go with the street side dinette. If a trailer has an upper box, I often use the original box and add a circuit. When doing an existing box, it is paramount to run 10ga wire to the breaker box. That insures that a future upgrade to 30 amps is very easy.
Most of my trailers are not 30 amp but are wired to support it. I use a J box near the 15 amp inlet to connect the wires. (14ga from inlet to J box, then connected to the 10ga that runs to the breaker box)
The above may be overkill for your trailer and isn't always necessary. I do it because I never know a buyer's needs. Better to be prepared.
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Oct 20, 2016 8:18:16 GMT -8
If I'm installing an all new system, I usually go with the street side dinette. If a trailer has an upper box, I often use the original box and add a circuit. When doing an existing box, it is paramount to run 10ga wire to the breaker box. That insures that a future upgrade to 30 amps is very easy. Most of my trailers are not 30 amp but are wired to support it. I use a J box near the 15 amp inlet to connect the wires. (14ga from inlet to J box, then connected to the 10ga that runs to the breaker box) The above may be overkill for your trailer and isn't always necessary. I do it because I never know a buyer's needs. Better to be prepared. Ah, thanks! I was going to talk with the electrician about how easy it would be to switch to 30amp in the future. |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Oct 20, 2016 9:32:34 GMT -8
Ours is in the closet in our Compact. We went ahead and put in a 30 amp one, not knowing what our own future needs would be. It wasn't that.much more expensive, and we're ready for whatever comes. Only problem was the time Hamlet's lady person decided to try out her new hair dryer while the space heater was running. Oops.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Oct 20, 2016 10:55:48 GMT -8
'64 canned-ham Airflyte is under the dinette streetside. The entry is right beside the box.  If you are installing your 110-V system from scratch, it makes no sense to upgrade later on. The cost of the box and the little bit of 10-ga wire is negligible in the overall picture. Setting up as a 30-amp inlet does not mean you can't plug in and run on 15-amps until the need for more amperage arises. I'm curious to know if your walls are opened up to run new wiring? If so then add a couple outlet locations to your plan. That is, if you might add air conditioning later on, pick your likely location and wire for it ahead. It will be tough running additional wiring later. |
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windborn
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Post by windborn on Oct 20, 2016 13:35:04 GMT -8
Thanks, Ten. If I installed a 30-amp inlet would I need a converter to use 15-amps?
I am working from scratch, but I still have the old 15-amp inlet and I know 30-amp ones are expensive so I was hoping to upgrade when the time comes. I have solid ply walls which give me the benefit of always having access to my wires and will make it a little easier to change things if I need to.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Oct 20, 2016 19:06:15 GMT -8
If you were to start with the 15 amp inlet and run the interior as a 30 amp setup, it would run fine plugged into a 15 amp service. It would not however run a 30 amp draw... Things like toasters running along with air conditioning.
If you set up with the 30 amp inlet, you would only have to adapt the plugin. Your breakers will determine how much draw your internal system will actually work on.
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Post by vikx on Oct 20, 2016 20:47:21 GMT -8
I use a new 15 amp (or old if it's in good condition) inlet on most of my trailers. The 30 amp is great if you need it but they are large, the cord is heavy and the needed adapter awkward. Most little trailers will operate just fine with a 15 amp system. ONE electrical thing at a time plus a few lights...
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