gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Sept 17, 2013 8:52:20 GMT -8
Wow, what an inspiration. It's true that it seems like it takes less time from the ground up. I am gonna want plans for this! and I'm sure others will too. And of course the build must be documented....maybe do a video of it Of course if you do that for us you gotta add a couple of months to this and also for the unforseen whatever...
How are you thinking you do the curvy doors....those might be tough.
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ndpap
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Post by ndpap on Sept 17, 2013 10:24:03 GMT -8
I am sad that you are ripping apart the Norris!!! It is so cute!
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Post by bigbill on Sept 17, 2013 13:38:15 GMT -8
Have you considered contacting your local vocational school to see if they have a class that learns to form plexi and if so would they be interested in forming your curved windows if you supplied the material? Some schools around here does this type of thing for the experience. Just a thought. Or you can get some scrapes and try it your self, the hardest part is maintaining the correct temp while bending, if you get the plexi to hot it will form bubbles. What is the radius of the curved window you would like to have?
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 17, 2013 20:10:47 GMT -8
Very interesting. Should be a lot of fun! Lots of photos along the way. Document the build.
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shastabear
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'66 Model 1500 Shasta
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Post by shastabear on Sept 17, 2013 20:58:09 GMT -8
Portajohn I personally wouldnt use plexiglass. I think Id go with Lexan since it is a tougher and more durable material. Love your ideas otherwise...I'd sure love a Holiday House as well!!! Make 2, please. LOL
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 18, 2013 5:17:11 GMT -8
The floor plan looks fine. I don't really get the shape of the counter top. Maybe you just wanted something different looking?
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 18, 2013 12:49:19 GMT -8
Too cool. Several people have shown desire to use a ham frame to build their own version, and you sure picked a good one to emulate. Lots of eyes will be watching. Please don't get stuck with a hard fast time frame though unless you include sufficient "chair time", those moments or hours when you are sitting inside letting your mind wander around the corners, listening to the creative juices bubble... real important, and I'd say, for me, an added 10%. A morning cuppa jo before starting and a glass of merlot at the end of the day, looking for a line that needs adjusting or what you can store in *** cabinet if it's just an inch or so longer, taller, etc. Good luck and take those pictures.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 18, 2013 18:10:48 GMT -8
Steve trys to keep the shipping down but the problem is really the packaging. He has to MAKE DANG SURE that the shipping carrier CAN'T ruin the metal from the way they treat it while in transit. He told me that he spends $10k a month just on cardboard. In one of the earlier videos on Metal it shows the packaging process for just a small piece of metal and when you start adding multiple sheets it starts getting heavy quick so the packaging must be way beefed up. You see where the shipping money went when you get the package. But I always encourage people to try to find someone close by first who can make the metal. Then if all else fails, go with Hemet Valley RV.
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 18, 2013 18:42:03 GMT -8
Well the main reason is that they don't want the shipment refused due to damage. That ends up costing them a lot of money so if they are going to ship, they make dang sure that it's gonna all get there in the original shape it left in. Then add the shipping itself and it can cost almost as much for shipping as the cost of the metal itself. Sure is good metal though. And he get's it right as long as you give him the right information.
Anyone with a 12 foot or larger hand break can do 3 inch breaks for you. It takes two people.
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Post by universalexports on Sept 18, 2013 18:59:16 GMT -8
wow, what a great idea, I dont know your level of trailer knowledge so I will say this, DO YOUR RESEARCH before doing anything or buying anything, their is the right and wrong plywood, flooring, tiles, glass, wiring, etc. such as avoiding flooring that has a MDF core, use the flooring with a solid core, etc. and as a rule a lot of the quality stuff just cant be found at the big box stores. screws from their are fine, birch plywood not so much. a lot of their stuff looks like factory seconds, or from a sweat shop in North Korea. I've used stuff from their but I have to dig through 30 pieces to find 1 that is OK. again do your research and ask a lot of questions for each new task you start.
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Sept 18, 2013 20:44:14 GMT -8
FYI Porta John is persimmon pal from the old forum.... one of the regulars over there. Don't doubt at all his capacity to do this build.... gonna be real fun to watch!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 18, 2013 20:45:54 GMT -8
Well that explains everything now... LOL... JK John...
OK cool. Let's see it happen.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Sept 19, 2013 5:25:56 GMT -8
I bent lexan with a torch once, to make a replacement windshield for my motorcycle. It was pretty easy, just wave the torch flame back and forth to heat the whole bend evenly, and like Bill said, it will form bubbles if you hold the flame too close or in one place for too long. It can also sag and burn if it gets too hot. I'd build a very smooth wooden form for it to drape over as it bends, as a rough texture might imprint itself on the surface. A heat gun would be safer than a torch. I've read that 257 degrees is the forming temp for Lexan. If you're not building it in one piece, you could do sections of it in the oven. If you are building it in one piece, and feel like taking the trouble, you could build a simple oven large enough to put the whole piece in... I've also read that Lexan absorbs moisture, and that if you don't want bubbles, you must dry it at a lower temp before bending. Can't confirm or deny that the bubbles come from absorbed moisture, though. Every time I hear someone say "don't buy Home Depot birch", I'm puzzled. I know they don't have 1/8", so if you need precise 1/8" I understand. But the 5mm stuff they sell is bookmatched veneer, made in the USA without formaldehyde, and I haven't found any voids or anything else wrong with it. www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Birch-Domestic-Plywood-165891/100092485?keyword=1%2F4+x+4+x+8+birch+plywood#specifications
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portajohn
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Post by portajohn on Sept 25, 2013 9:06:36 GMT -8
Update! i have made a new schematic of the trailer and think this one is a bit more accurate. The window plavements may change slightly depending on where the cabinets are, etc. Also, i disgned this one to be shorther than any of the Holiday Houses offered.. I would like it to be in the 13 ft range. I will be starting a blog soon, and going to take it sloooow.. i was thinking if anyone wants to do the project with me (online of course), we could each make one by the springtime. I could share all of my diagrams and schematics, and we could start an online "group build" with however number of members joining equalling the number of campers built! I have a budget of about 4000.00, and all ready have the frame, windows, doors, etc... Here is a pic of the latest model.. still tinkering with the interior layout
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Sept 25, 2013 18:54:19 GMT -8
PJ, in my little out of the way town here in the heart (or armpit) of Appalachia our local HVAC dealer has a 12' break for making ductwork. They don't deal in aluminum sadly but will gladly bend breaks if I can find some appropriate and relatively local skin. We also have a lot of trucking companys around here, and although our town is too small, it was suggested to me to contact a "tractor-trailer repair" to get aluminum skin. They typically use a thicker guage sheet than our hams but could be a way to find a source. I'm thinking I want to replace my Hilander's 4 piece roof with a few less joints so when the time comes I may have to drive down into WV or one of our big cities but whoever does repair can get me big sheets. I don't remember where you live; VSTA has been gone longer than my capacity to remember, but betcha, if you can't find a repair shop, try stopping at a trucking company and seeing where they get their repairs done. It's been my experience that if I keep a picture of my original project to show when I approach 'outta-the-box shops for help, they'll go outta their way to help. Can't tell yo how many people you wouldn't expect, will say "we had one just like that back when I was a kid".
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