otfiddler
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 26, 2016 16:12:52 GMT -8
I'm trying to remove my brake drum to re-pack bearings and check brake shoe condition, and I can't get it to budge.
Probably there's a trick to it or a secret that I have forgotten since I last did this --- this trailer is new to me and I've never pulled drums off.
Got any tips to share?
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Sept 26, 2016 19:22:54 GMT -8
Sometimes there are two opposing threaded holes on the drum face that you turn bolts into. The bolts press against the hub flange pushing the drums off. Try backing the adjuster all the way off. A bigger hammer?
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Sept 27, 2016 5:05:29 GMT -8
On my Shasta campers the drum came off simply by removing the cap, cotter pin and retaining nut. At times I had to shimmy the drum off. In my younger years I owned a car that wouldn't budge so I left the wheel on for leverage to rock it back and forth. Hopefully that makes sense.
Does the outer bearing slide out with the washer (?) or are they stuck in place? Sometimes that can hold the drum on if the nut was over tightened. Usually tapping with a hammer loosens them.
Post a photo. It may help.
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otfiddler
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 27, 2016 7:59:01 GMT -8
RinTin: Today I will make sure the adjusters are backed off completely --- I didn't check them yesterday because the drum rotated freely and I didn't hear pads dragging on drum, but I should verify anyway. Also I'll look for the threaded holes you mention --- I don't remember seeing any, but I was probably so focussed on the bearing that I missed them.
NCCamper: Nut and washer came out easily, but outer bearing is still stuck inside --- I tried gently prying around the bearing's perimeter trying to loosen it, but got no movement. I'll try tapping the drum with my hickory mallet after verifying the brake pads are not pressing on the drum.
Maybe also I'll go ahead and try the Driver's side to see if it will come apart --- I thought that since I had wheels off for tire replacement I'd check bearing and brake pad condition and R&R as required, but it's become a little more of a chore than I had hoped or planned for.
Thanks for the help, folks --- updates as warranted!
Larry
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otfiddler
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We're from Texas --- what country are YOU from?
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 27, 2016 16:32:25 GMT -8
I struggled with the stubborn Passenger Side brake drum some more today, without success --- a photo of the recalcitrant part is included for clarity. I managed to remove the Driver Side brake drum and wheel bearing without drama, so apparently I do know what I'm doing (sometimes). I also put the tire/wheel assembly on temporarily, to give me more leverage to try to loosen or remove the drum, and wasn't able to remove it that way either --- I did learn that it's going to be impossible (or nearly so) to install my new tires while they are inflated to 50 psi; I may need to install them partially inflated and final-inflate them after installation, but maybe I can figure out to do it another way. My guess is that the bearing's inner race is somehow welded to the axle --- what do you folks recommend? Thanks again, Larry
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Post by bigbill on Sept 27, 2016 16:43:54 GMT -8
Do you have the frame jacked up to allow the axle to hang down? This will give you more clearance than jacking up under the axle. They make an axle puller that will bolt to three wheel studs, then the center screw pushes against the axle pulling the drum off. Hope this helps.
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otfiddler
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 27, 2016 18:01:26 GMT -8
Thanks for the reminder about jacking under the frame to lower the axle and allow the tire to fit easier ---possibly I forgot and left the scissor jack under the axle when I tried to install the inflated tire.
I was hoping brake drum pullers existed, I'll see if I can find one to rent tomorrow.
Thanks, Larry
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Post by bigbill on Sept 28, 2016 12:12:55 GMT -8
They used to be called hub pullers. 1948 and older Ford rear hubs required them. If you can't rent one of them get a three jaw puller that uses L shapes arms with holes to fit over studs. These are a universal type puller kit. I have heated a stuck bearing with an ox/acy torch but be careful as you can cause major damage.
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otfiddler
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 28, 2016 21:42:26 GMT -8
Thanks, everybody, I borrowed the puller from O'Reilly's and got it done in about 10 minutes --- amazing how having the right tools can greatly simplify and expedite the task at hand!
All parts have now been removed and I'm ready to begin re-building my wheels, but I'm going to have to replace the grease seals --- can anyone tell me the part number for the Shasta Compact grease seals?
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Post by bigbill on Sept 29, 2016 6:04:19 GMT -8
Wash the old seals and look on the rubber seal surface both inside and out. On the rubber itself not on the metal. You should find a number and name that O'Reillys can interchange. If this doesn't work measure the O.D. of the surface the seal rides on and the I.D. of the hub where seal inserts then take that info to parts house along with the old seal and they should be able to match it up.
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otfiddler
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 29, 2016 8:31:32 GMT -8
No part numbers on my grease seals, on either metal or rubber portions, I looked again last night with a magnifying glass --- I can't imagine why not, but there are no part numbers there.
I have found possibly apocryphal information on the Interwebs saying original rolling parts were from a V-8 Ford Falcon, and even some grease seal part numbers that others have used, so I will tote one of my brake drums (possibly part numbers on the brake drums could be used to determine manufacturer and lead to a car make and model?) and the 2 tired grease seals to some local vendors and find parts that will undoubtedly work, since we can measure the I. D. of the seal and the I. D. of the brake drum to determine sizes, but I like to have part numbers whenever possible as a starting point (it's my CDO --- same as OCD, but with the letters in the CORRECT order).
Thanks for your help everybody, I'll report back what I learn after it's rebuilt and tested. Larry
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otfiddler
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'67 Shasta Compact
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Post by otfiddler on Sept 30, 2016 9:10:45 GMT -8
I haven't installed them yet, but the grease seals I bought seem to be the right size for the job, and superior in a couple of areas to the seals I removed.
The new ones are sold at Northern Tool in a blister pack for $6.99 (P/N 57124713), they fit snugly in the inboard side of the brake drum and over the axle. The differences between the old and new grease seals are: there is a spring around the periphery of the seal on the outboard side of the seal, and the seal itself is .50 wide, versus .31 wide for the removed seals.
I expect them to work well, and will report back after they are installed and tested.
Thanks again, Larry
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