|
Post by Trailer Sweetheart on May 27, 2016 19:11:35 GMT -8
So I plan to replace my broken rear window with Lexan. What sealant should I use...I heard in this instance, silicone is the best. Please chime in, thank you in advance.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 27, 2016 20:42:46 GMT -8
I "think" there are metal clips holding the glass in place. You carefully pry them out/off to get to the frame. Seal any flaws with OSI gutter seal, less is more. Check this thread out: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/4864/guide-remove-reseal-shasta-windowIt's best to use glass seal (black double sticky tape) before the glass goes in. Spray this sticky seal with Windex before setting the glass (or Lexan) to be able to adjust. I would also talk to a glass shop before using the seal with Lexan. When the glass is set, replace the clips. Be SURE you get the proper thickness or the clips won't snap back in.
|
|
|
Post by Trailer Sweetheart on May 27, 2016 23:36:23 GMT -8
Exactly the information I have been searching for...thank you Vikx! I read through the thread and watched Mobiltec's video and now I can replace that darn window...by myself, yay! The taped up window look was really cramping my style!
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on May 28, 2016 15:41:51 GMT -8
Is your rear window your emergency exit in case trailer got turned over door side down? if so lexan is tough to break out. The life you save could be yours.
|
|
|
Post by Trailer Sweetheart on May 29, 2016 0:17:03 GMT -8
So...I got the Lexan cut to size and found the right sized window glazing tape at my local repair shop but, argghhh...apparently the 3 gutter sealants that Vikx recommended are not available in Canada Since the window area does not leak, is it imperative that gutter seal be used in the corners before installing the Lexan? I am thinking that it is an extra preventative measure to avoid future leaks? Going camping in 2 days and really wanted to replace that broken window... Oh and bigbill...thanks for the concern. I have windows on the road and curbside in the rear that I could boot out if ever the need arose. Lexan needs to be used as my young daughter tosses and turns in her sleep and happens to smack the window several times nightly with her legs. The window is positioned right beside the bed...and well, the window has already lost the battle with my daughter once in this case...and we were lucky to have reflective film applied on the interior side that prevented the shards of glass cutting her or shattering down completely.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 29, 2016 19:56:41 GMT -8
You can probably use any clear sealant in the corners. If it's not leaking, don't worry about it. The clips can come back out if you need to seal later. You can drop by and I'll do it for you...
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,822
Likes: 3,746
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on May 29, 2016 19:57:33 GMT -8
If you can't get OSI get what ever sealant that works on metal gutters. It's really just a precaution as many times it is already sealed in the corners. Silicone is not good to use on anything metal.
|
|
|
Post by Trailer Sweetheart on May 29, 2016 22:05:33 GMT -8
Sent you an email Vikx...I surely would appreciate a hand, thank you!
|
|
windborn
Active Member
Posts: 339
Likes: 70
1957 Sportcraft 15
Currently Offline
|
Post by windborn on May 30, 2016 5:51:13 GMT -8
Is your rear window your emergency exit in case trailer got turned over door side down? if so lexan is tough to break out. The life you save could be yours. This is something I had never considered. Though, I'm a pretty small person and I still don't think I'd be fitting through any of my windows. Seems like it'd be easier to keep some tin snips on hands and cut my way out haha
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on May 30, 2016 8:01:43 GMT -8
Is your rear window your emergency exit in case trailer got turned over door side down? if so lexan is tough to break out. The life you save could be yours. This is something I had never considered. Though, I'm a pretty small person and I still don't think I'd be fitting through any of my windows. Seems like it'd be easier to keep some tin snips on hands and cut my way out haha The only difference between you and a mouse is a mouse can wiggle through any place his head will go through, a person can wiggle through any place their head and arm will pass through. Enough for little known facts. Seriously most trailers from the late 60s on have one window that can be used as the emergency exit if needed, it usually has double strength glass that is strong but can be broken out in need be.
|
|
|
Post by vikx on May 30, 2016 11:34:41 GMT -8
Sent you an email Vikx...I surely would appreciate a hand, thank you! Well, you won't know if you need extra sealant until the Lexan is in and the window is tested. But you're welcome.
|
|
|
Post by Trailer Sweetheart on Jun 11, 2016 11:41:23 GMT -8
Update. The old, taped up broken window took a bit to take out. The window glazing (butyl tape for windows) was still pretty stuck in all areas to the aluminum window edging. Took a heat gun to the edges in hopes of softening up the glazing to release the glass and it still wouldn't budge. Decided the best way to tackle it was to take a thin, metal putty knife and insert it gently between the interior metal casing and glass and gently run the edge as flat as possible along the glass to release the seal and voila...out it came! Cleaned the remaining old glazing off the casing with brake clean. The glazing I picked up from an auto glass shop, thickness was bang on but found the width a bit thicker than the original. Simple fix was to take a sharp pair of scissors and trim the edge of each strip leaving paper on before applying to window edging. Worked like a charm. The old window was plain plate 1/8 inch glass and was replaced with the same width Lexan. Looks great and was a pretty straightforward fix thanks to Vikx and Mobiltec spot on advice (and youtube video). Didn't have to worry about sealant (gutter seal) as there was no evidence of holes or leaks. My trailer had window molding clips and unfortunately forgot to take Mobiltec's advice to put them back in a particular order which would of made getting in the last piece a bit easier. Vikx tip to spray the edge of the glass/Lexan prior to final placing of glass really helped to give the slip needed to place it exactly in it's final spot. Something I found helpful was that I used some plastic shims secured with painters tape on the bottom exterior sill just prior to placement to help "sit" the window in just the right place. Thanks again Vikx and Mobiltec for your tips
|
|