soup
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Post by soup on Aug 31, 2013 6:27:53 GMT -8
I'm excited about this paint thread. Learning a lot and it gives me hope that I can do this myself and not have to have every job end on a rather un-nerving note waiting for the dang painter to get around to my trailer. Soup. What kind of shine do you get using that rustoleum paint? Thanks Yall, I was kinda wondering about color and composition on this one. The colors are; Pink = (Gloss Frosty Berry #85022 Valspar) Teal = (Gloss Exotic Sea # 85201 Valspar) White = Gloss White Rustoleum Gallon Can does 2 compacts, with 32 ozs of acetone thinner. No hardener. Stays good in can even after mixing. Do not let freeze. Mobiltec; It is as shiny as the new roof skin from Steve. "IF"
You do some things right. Main things for rustoleum mirror finish is; 1: Prep. After you get all dings and bodywork done, you have to then wipe everything down with special scotch brite pads at your local NAPA for sanding/smoothing auto bodies. I use the gray pad and rub/wipe all surfaces to be painted untill almost all drag on pad against surface is gone, sanding noise disappears. It should feel smooth under the pad. You can do this wet or dry, depending on what you are trying to accomplish and time available. 2: After wiping down the skin with the scotch pad, blow off with air. 3: Then wipe down with prep solve and wipe dry. This will have skin smooth as new but micro rough for paint to stick better. 4: Now here is the kicker (talent needed after practice), When spraying, best to do light coat first, let dry till directions say sandable. Then go over all again with scotch pad, clean, then spray again. This final color coat you will have to dance the razors edge to get the wet mirror look. You have to shoot the paint gun and coat the skin, untill wet looking but NOT so wet it runs. If you paint too light a coat, it will get rough like a piece of sandpaper (orange peel). Timing is everything. Not too fast or slow of a level sweep of the gun. It has to look wet to just before it would run. Tricky but after practice, nothing better feeling. 2-3 days of prep for whole camper but like 10 min. of spraying for 1 side. I can spray a whole prepped trailer in less than 1/2 hour. Pretty soon you'll get good enough to where like me, you'll be able to spray and wet cover rustoleum in 1 thick coat! A-hem...without runs I might add. Now the next day there will be gnats (OH HECK YES there will be gnats, unless your in a paint booth)...DON"T PICK AT THEM YET!! Give it a couple days first. Then pick at gnats lightly with finger nail, they will pop right off and hardly leave a mark...DEM DIRTY LITTLE SO & SO"S!! Rest of paint job will be so glossy and nice, you won't even notice the "little wings" in the paint! LOL The compact I'm finish painting today, the white is only 1 heavy coat. Looks like a white mirror. Then add humidity and heat/cool to the mix. Too humid, the paint will have a fog haze in it after drying. Too hot, orange peel, or overspray look, rough texture.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 31, 2013 11:47:17 GMT -8
Thank you Soup! I was just outside looking at all the metal I have to play with and practice on.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 31, 2013 16:48:32 GMT -8
Most bugs will wash off the first time you wash it with no effort. Trying to get a bug out of fresh paint will do more damage than leaving it there usually.
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Rcimp
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Post by Rcimp on Oct 31, 2013 11:41:18 GMT -8
Nice job on the painting. Reading these gets me excited to get my Scout painted. I am going to be using a LIC Brand Industrial single stage paint from English Color. The paint has to be sprayed but it is already thinned for a HVLP cup gun with a 1.3 to 1.4 nozzle. The only thing you have to add is a hardener to speed up drying time of 4 hours. It also comes in many colors so you are not stuck with the basic reds, greens, yellows. We found a white cream for the main body and a turquoise color for our exterior accent.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 31, 2013 20:13:17 GMT -8
Please take lots of photos for us.....
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 31, 2013 20:18:16 GMT -8
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supermerle
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1964 Shasta 1500
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Post by supermerle on Dec 12, 2013 13:09:31 GMT -8
Great job on the paint folks! One thing about the hardner is if you don't use it your paint will oxidize and fade in about a year or two. With hardner the paint job will last for a long time and can be washed and wax to make look brand new again. But make sure you use a good mask if you use a hardner. I love tractor paint! here is a picture of my Farmall Cub I restored about 10 years ago. The truck is base coat/ clear coat. Painting is not hard but is only as good as the prep work.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Dec 12, 2013 15:29:36 GMT -8
That is a really nice-looking machine you have there! Love those Cubs! Most around here are pretty well oxidized and some are actually still "daily-drivers" for some...Nice!! Just -- Nice!!!
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supermerle
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1964 Shasta 1500
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Post by supermerle on Dec 12, 2013 16:54:39 GMT -8
10 It's a work horse. I rebuilt the motor and everything about 8to10 years ago and it runs like a sewing machine.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Dec 12, 2013 18:22:26 GMT -8
I had a Super-C at one time, that had been gone through, but I had found that my original plans for it didn't work out. I let it go after it sat for way too long. It even had the wide front-end. Ran like a watch when it got here, after the sitting, well...not so much. Not one of my better endeavors.
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supermerle
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1964 Shasta 1500
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Post by supermerle on Dec 12, 2013 18:35:44 GMT -8
I have had a super c myself too. It was nice but on the big side for what I needed.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 19, 2013 8:13:44 GMT -8
One thing I heard from my painter about Clear Coating.... If you end up scratching the trailer which does happen if you camp in places like I do, the repair is very time consuming and difficult because you can not just rub it out or paint and rub it out. If you use a single stage paint then all you have to do is either rub it out, or in the case of a really bad scratch you can sand a little, repaint the area and rub out.
Thoughts?
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Post by bigbill on Dec 19, 2013 15:08:53 GMT -8
It depends how deep you scratch it a minor scratch will buff right off and a little more can be sanded with fine paper then buffed back to a fine shine and of course a scratch through the clear coat would have to be sanded smooth the that panel reshot with clear. You would treat it just like you would a late model car. I have buffed more base clear scratches out with less energy than I have single stage enamels. Why do you think used car lots have so many cars ten years old that look like new.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 19, 2013 16:22:21 GMT -8
Well I'm just going by what my painter tells me. Of course he doesn't know everything but he also charges twice as much for a clear coat. So a $2500 job goes instantly to $5k.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Dec 19, 2013 17:33:56 GMT -8
I would concur with Bill on a base coat/clear coat repair. It's not a big deal at all and is done at every auto body shop, many times everyday.
In fact my painter prefers to do base coat / clear coat over a single stage paint because it's easier to tape and do the two tones and graphics, and then he just shoots clear coat on whole trailer at one time.
Maybe you should ask around for another painter, if he's telling you it costs twice as much. Clear paint costs less than a pigmented color, and 99% of the cost of a nice paint job is in all the prep work, which would be the same no matter how you painted it.
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