aloopdloop
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Rolling Down The Road
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Post by aloopdloop on Aug 29, 2013 8:57:46 GMT -8
I have a 66 Shasta and am replacing some of the plumbing. There is a shower, toilet, and sink My question for the group is about the copper that is currently in there and should I sweat solder in new copper (expensive) or should I replace with flexible line or pvc? The flexible line is cheaper and I have seen that it can handle hot water. PVC is a little harder to work with, it too can handle hot water. I was wondering if anyone had experience in the replacement of this much plumbing and what materials will hold up the best. |
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Aug 29, 2013 10:16:34 GMT -8
I am (today) replacing the entire plumbing system on our '60 Deluxe and I'm using PEX tubing and Sharkbite connectors. MUCH easier and better than copper tubing and brazing. I'm using 1/2 inch lines because there was no 3/8 PEX lines available locally but whatever size you go with will be a snap!
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 29, 2013 22:16:02 GMT -8
I like the plastic stuff. All you need is a heat gun and a PVC cutter. This video shows how it is connected. The stuff is flexible and won't leak.
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Post by vikx on Aug 29, 2013 23:08:20 GMT -8
I would replace the copper with Pex or poly line. PVC and Cpvc are too rigid and tend to crack in cold weather or with vibration. (that's the stuff that glues together, sold at home stores) I usually go with poly tubing, 3/8". It fits the smaller pump barbs and is very flexible.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 30, 2013 12:22:49 GMT -8
I'm am following this tread as well, mobiltec, I am guessing that plastic line would not work for hot water, whats recommend for hot water???
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Aug 30, 2013 12:28:10 GMT -8
PEX works for hot water as well, and the Sharkbite fittings can be used on copper/polybutyl/PEX in any combination. You can instantly remove the fittings if a repair is needed, and cutting the tubing and stabbing it into the fitting as all that installation requires. Very easy and do-able at night in bad wheather, which is when all plumbing leaks happen. (I work offshore, trust me on this)
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Post by universalexports on Aug 30, 2013 16:14:10 GMT -8
i just checked out sharkbite fitting on youtube, how cool is that? stupid simple, but I had never heard of them.
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 30, 2013 18:58:27 GMT -8
I'm am following this tread as well, mobiltec, I am guessing that plastic line would not work for hot water, whats recommend for hot water??? Dang UE I'm going to have to ask about that. I've never tried it with hot water before and being that you heat this stuff up to fit it, perhaps hot water might not be a good thing for this stuff. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks for bringing it up. Im used to small canned hams without hot water. The Kenskill will be my first Vintage SC. I've had big new ones before but never had to do any plumbing in them other than change the pump. |
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Aug 31, 2013 9:09:37 GMT -8
Although I haven't used my water heater for anything more than tests so far, my whole system was black plastic lines when I bought it (dunno if they're specifically Pex or not), and running the water heater for a couple of hours and dispensing water that was too hot to touch didn't cause any immediate problems...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 13, 2013 17:04:54 GMT -8
OK I just happened to look at some clear PEX line that I have lying around and it says on the side that it is rated for up to 200 degrees f at 80psi, 180 degrees f at 100 psi. The white stuff says hot/cold/potable.
So PEX Line works for hot water as well. And I just noticed that this question was addressed by txoil above UE's post.
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Post by universalexports on Sept 14, 2013 15:43:46 GMT -8
thanks, this is on the "to do" list.
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Roothawg
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1963 Avalair Mark II
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Post by Roothawg on Feb 21, 2014 15:08:15 GMT -8
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 21, 2014 16:48:33 GMT -8
I'm just completing my first trailer using PEX tubing, and Sharkbite fittings. Based on everything I could read, the only problems people have had with leaks are always on the "hot water side". Since my hot water heater is only two feet from my sink faucet, I chickened out and ran 3/8" copper tubing on two foot the hot water line.
I also found out there's two different type of Sharkbite fittings. They have a "push on", or a "crimp on" style. The crimp on fitting can be used with copper compression rings, or stainless crimp rings. Each style requires different tools. My thinking is in a stationary home the temperature only varies maybe 50 or 60 degrees. In a trailer it can vary well over 100 degrees, plus your shaking it every time you tow. So I went with the "crimp on" style using the copper crush rings. So far, it was easy to install, much cheaper than using copper, and I have had two fittings leak so far. So the jury is still out for me, as to if this is the best long term solution to plumbing a trailer, time will tell.
One other thing. I had to go to three different Home Depots in order to find enough PEX Sharkbite parts in order to complete one very simple system. You have to go through every box in order to find what you want because everything is mixed up. |
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Post by vikx on Feb 21, 2014 22:31:11 GMT -8
I use Flare-it fittings, but they are getting scarce. They are plastic compression fittings. I also like the plastic push fittings, made by Apollo. (Lowes)
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houdini
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Post by houdini on Sept 30, 2014 18:32:53 GMT -8
I use Flare-it fittings, but they are getting scarce. They are plastic compression fittings. I also like the plastic push fittings, made by Apollo. (Lowes) We used the lex with the sharkbite fittings. Works great and no leaks. Easy retrofit and relatively inexpensive. The fittings can get pricy but worth the investment.. |
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