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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 20, 2014 21:05:42 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Feb 20, 2014 21:23:25 GMT -8
For the roof vent, I've found that the Multimaster is great. I drill 4 small holes and mark the hole, then use a 1/2 round blade. I've done this several times and have been happy with the results.
I'm hoping the router with an oiled, two flute bit will be quicker. Perhaps putting the trailer on two large tarps will contain the little beads. They sound like a real mess...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 21, 2014 8:05:32 GMT -8
I didn't have a flush-cut router bit handy and got to the point in the Compact project where it was time to cut (actually reshape) the hole for the water inlet. I tried a roto-zip side cut bit. It worked well. Mobiltec - according to the Freud router bit site, the 2-flute bits cut faster, the 3-flute bits make smoother cuts. Here's a pretty good price for a bit, especially if you've got Amazon Prime: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225Y9/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I'll be using one of those to trim some Formica. Well perhaps the 3-flute bits cut smoother on softer materials like laminates and wood, but on metal, from my experience so far, the 3 flute melts the metal faster than the smaller two flute bit. In the video I am using that same bit you show. Half inch 3 flutes. It lasted for one window and then failed. The 5/16 bit with two flutes I have now has lasted for 3 windows so far and still going. It's also the same bit I use for laminates on the counter and table.
If you think about it, the larger half inch bit MUST turn faster than the 5/16. The shaft of the router is going the same speed and the larger the diameter of the bit, the faster it turns. That's just physics. So the smaller bit obviously turns slower and melts the metal less. I want an even slower router now just for metal.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 21, 2014 8:08:51 GMT -8
For the roof vent, I've found that the Multimaster is great. I drill 4 small holes and mark the hole, then use a 1/2 round blade. I've done this several times and have been happy with the results. I'm hoping the router with an oiled, two flute bit will be quicker. Perhaps putting the trailer on two large tarps will contain the little beads. They sound like a real mess... It really is messy Vikx. For the top vent I have used the multi-tool also. It just takes longer.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 21, 2014 9:32:11 GMT -8
Mobiltec, your correct in your observation.
But since the different sized bits are still mounted to the same revolving shaft, they are still turning at the same RPM speed. But the "surface speed" of the cutter is slower on the smaller diameter cutter. The high surface speed adds to the melting problems you have experienced. It's the same reason that you need to adjust the belts and slow the drill press speed down when drilling larger diameter holes, or turning large diameter stock on a lathe.
As you already are aware, if your router is equipped with a speed control, you can just turn down the router speed.
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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 21, 2014 11:36:28 GMT -8
I'm surprised nobody has brought this up in this thread, but I found a Jigsaw with a bi-metal blade worked the best, I tried hand shears and air shears. The jigsaw cut through the thin aluminum like butter!!
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 21, 2014 13:45:42 GMT -8
I'm surprised nobody has brought this up in this thread, but I found a Jigsaw with a bi-metal blade worked the best, I tried hand shears and air shears. The jigsaw cut through the thin aluminum like butter!!
Your correct, cutting the thin material is not an issue.
The larger issue for me is in "not damaging or scratching" the surrounding metal. This might not be an issue when reusing old metal that will get painted. But when installing "new pre-painted, or factory polished" metal you want to find ways to cut it and not ding or scratch the new metal.
With a router, or jigsaw your can tape the base of the tool, but the metal chips still can get stuck under the tool and scratch the new metal as you move the tool for the cut.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 21, 2014 13:57:22 GMT -8
I love my battery powered shears. they do an excellent job cutting aluminum or steel.
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yas
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Post by yas on Feb 21, 2014 15:35:49 GMT -8
Thanks for that link. I'm definitely no a professional woodworker. Amazon sent me the wrong bit, so I get another chance ...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2014 13:07:17 GMT -8
OK I tried using the Multi-Tool for cutting out the front window. Takes longer that way but much cleaner. Also I only cut the two sides all the way through and then drilled some holes in each corner from the inside for marking purposes and then drew a line between the two. Then I just used the Multi-Tool to scribe the surface instead of cutting all the way through and wiggled the metal back and forth a few times and it popped right out. I think I'm going to forget about the router on metal for the time being.
"I do the research so you don't have to."
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Feb 23, 2014 19:33:48 GMT -8
Thought I would enter my thoughts for your purview. I have tried all of the above including the router bit. (except using the multi tool). All of them work to some degree and have one thing in common, they are noisy, hard to control and leave lots of metal shavings. Perhaps it was because my new skin was 26 gauge instead of 28 but the router bit and roto-zip were very hard to keep snuggled up to the inside frame I was trying to follow and I was in a continual sweat worrying about where it was going to go. The skinny wheel probably was the best of all except you certainly couldn't use it if you were going to leave the inside frame exposed as around the door so I made a sacrificial frame to cut this out. It also was extremely noisy and left a real sharp edge which had to be cleaned up. Finally, I went to harbor freight and purchased the pictured tool. Even though it takes a larger hole to start with, it works great. The jaws follow the frame work very evenly and with little damage, its offal is simply a strip of metal about an eighth of an inch wide and it makes little or no noise. I used it to trip the top edge of the side metal even with the edging boards and the result was a smooth and clean cut with no sharp edges. It is also variable speed. The blades are replaceable so if you use it enough (which I won't) and it gets dull, just replace the blades. I don't remember what I paid for it but it seems like it was around $40 on sale. It is now my go to tool for cutting metal. The Harbor Freight power shear. I call it a nibbler, seems more appropriate.
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Feb 23, 2014 19:41:54 GMT -8
In addition, the head swivels so you can put it at any position you need to do the work. If it has any draw backs, in order to swivel the head you need to loosen the allen head screws. Not a deal breaker but it would be nice if this was just a little simpler. You have to keep it at the correct orientation to the metal other wise it doesn't cut.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 24, 2014 7:49:10 GMT -8
I have one of those but it's not from HF and I hate it. I can't seem to follow a line with it especially if the metal has brakes in it. Maybe the HF one works better I don't know. Perhaps I will try a new one from HF and see how it works. I can always return it.
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Feb 24, 2014 10:55:03 GMT -8
The only problem I have had is if I push too hard against the wood inside I am following. Sometimes it seems that the blades jam and I have to move it until I find the right angle and perhaps apply a bit more pressure. I have no problem following a line at all as long as I can see it clearly. I haven't needed a line as long as there is something on the inside of the metal to allow the cutter blade to follow. When I purchased my new metal, I had them leave some excess at the radius of the roof line. Using this tool, I ended up with a very clean and precise cut so when I installed the roof I didn't have to worry about the roof metal wearing against it once I bent in down. The fact that the head swivels is a real asset also.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 24, 2014 14:06:30 GMT -8
The only problem I have had is if I push too hard against the wood inside I am following. Sometimes it seems that the blades jam and I have to move it until I find the right angle and perhaps apply a bit more pressure. I have no problem following a line at all as long as I can see it clearly. I haven't needed a line as long as there is something on the inside of the metal to allow the cutter blade to follow. When I purchased my new metal, I had them leave some excess at the radius of the roof line. Using this tool, I ended up with a very clean and precise cut so when I installed the roof I didn't have to worry about the roof metal wearing against it once I bent in down. The fact that the head swivels is a real asset also. Thanks... I'll buy one and give it a shot. If it doesn't work you can buy it from me and you will have a spare LOL...
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