mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 20, 2013 5:35:34 GMT -8
During my trip to Colorado I learned that the way the factories cut out the windows and the side metal around the curbing was with a router. So I've been wanting to try this for some time now.
This little trailer was left to me by a friend who died and it needed one whole side of the lower metal skin replaced. It was the perfect time to try the router out on the window hole. It worked out great. Here's a video on how to do it.
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soup
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Post by soup on Aug 20, 2013 5:49:51 GMT -8
Cool! Thanks!!
Like a hot knife through buddah! I sure needed that the past 2 days, oh well I'll know next time. Thanks again for the vid, soup
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Oct 12, 2013 14:44:12 GMT -8
Great video Mobiltec. The new skin for Chucks Waggin came in at 26 gauge instead of 28. I didn't have some of the openings cut out even though I had sent in the old skin for a pattern. In trying to decide what to use to make the cut outs I started with my side grinder and a skinny wheel. That was not only very noisy but a bit on the dangerous side. I then purchased a spiral metal bit for my roto zip tool. That worked a bunch better but the roto zip was a bit hard to handle. SO, I purchased an electric nibbler from Harbor Freight. Between that tool and the roto zip, I got the job done. I never thought of using my router!!! I even have the same diablo bit you show in your video. Kind of wish I still had some cut-outs so I could try it. Oh well, maybe next time. Again, thanks for the great video.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 12, 2013 16:09:24 GMT -8
OK one caution... Keep moving when using it. Look at the back side of the metal where the bearing will be riding so you know about where the turns will be. Maybe even drill whole in all for corners so you know that the turn is coming up. Don't press too hard on the router and try to keep it flat on the surface of the metal. If you get stuck or stop turn the thing off right away. Cuz if it sits for just a second too long in one place it will melt the aluminum which will get stuck on the flutes and ruin the bit. I just did that on the Field & Stream so I had to go back to the hand grinder with the thin wheel to finish it and I lost a $30 bit.
So the whole thing is to keep it moving and it works great.
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Post by vikx on Oct 12, 2013 21:34:24 GMT -8
I was wondering about the router and bit. Have two trailers that will have all new skin, lots of holes to cut. Thanks for the info.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 13, 2013 6:10:55 GMT -8
The metal used back in the day was thinner and weaker than the metal of today. Also the break patterns of the newer trailers like the 2" Mesa Deluxe is harder to deal with than 4 or 6 inch breaks and other smoother patterns. So again, the idea is to keep it moving and if the router hits a place where it wants to stop going forward, hit the off switch really quick. Most routers have a brake so it will stop as soon as you hit the switch. That will save your router bit. Then find what it got hung up on and bypass it. Trim with shears or a grinder in that spot after.
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yas
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Post by yas on Feb 19, 2014 21:20:17 GMT -8
Thanks for this. I've got a hole to cut in the Compact's skin for the water fill, and some Formica to trim. Looks like I'm heading to Home Depot (again).
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Post by schweetcruisers on Feb 20, 2014 9:45:41 GMT -8
I'd use a hole saw for the water fill, but what ever you do don't use the same router bit for aluminum and Formica, the aluminum will dull it and more than likely the glue from the Formica will gum up the bit and bearing.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 20, 2014 11:26:02 GMT -8
I have used a router to cut the siding and found that if you lube the cutter with aluminum thread cutting fluid (Tap Magic) and slow down the RPM it cuts just fine. The router speed needs to be slowed to a level that will cut, "not burn" the metal or it will gum up the cutter with melted metal.
However, I no longer use the router for the siding because It takes me months to clean up all of the aluminum chips from the driveway. Not to mention the problem of walking on the chips and tracking them into the house. Any time saved in cutting, is wasted in clean up.
It take "maybe two minutes" to cut out a window using aircraft snips.
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Roothawg
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Post by Roothawg on Feb 20, 2014 11:39:57 GMT -8
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Feb 20, 2014 11:53:16 GMT -8
And what guides the cutter from cutting into the wall/window stud?
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mattyshorts
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Post by mattyshorts on Feb 20, 2014 12:13:48 GMT -8
That tapered cutter looks similar to a roto zip bit for drywall....if it's the same theory, all you have to do is keep it moving and it will not dig into the wood.
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Roothawg
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Post by Roothawg on Feb 20, 2014 12:52:58 GMT -8
I just free hand it....
That's the story of my life.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 20, 2014 18:18:03 GMT -8
I have found that using a 5/16 router bit with two flutes instead of the bigger one with 3 flutes works much better and I now soak it with 3 in One oil before use. That way it cuts better.
Yes it does make a huge mess and I use this method only when in certain cases now. Like Im going to use it on the top vent hole for the 57 Westerner in a few days. Im also going to use it tomorrow on the front window cut out. That will be on video in the 57 Westerner series.
Going to see if I can find something that is slower than my router and see if that also helps.
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yas
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Post by yas on Feb 20, 2014 20:54:52 GMT -8
I didn't have a flush-cut router bit handy and got to the point in the Compact project where it was time to cut (actually reshape) the hole for the water inlet. I tried a roto-zip side cut bit. It worked well. Mobiltec - according to the Freud router bit site, the 2-flute bits cut faster, the 3-flute bits make smoother cuts. Here's a pretty good price for a bit, especially if you've got Amazon Prime: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225Y9/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I'll be using one of those to trim some Formica.
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