carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 20, 2016 17:01:22 GMT -8
I'm removing the skin from my 76 Okanagan and ran into a snag. In order to get the skin off I need to remove this exhaust shield from the furnace. So I don't really need to pull the furnace, just the heat shield so I can take the skin off. The challenge is the exhaust pipe is seized on. This is the exhaust pipe. It is within this sheet metal shield. Any tips on how to loosen the exhaust pipe??? I suppose I can lather it with WD 40 or something. This is the furnace from the inside. Any tips or ideas are welcome. Thanks
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Post by vikx on Feb 20, 2016 22:50:50 GMT -8
Wow, that furnace is in excellent condition! At least looks that way... These things are a pain in the Arse. The exhaust tubes freeze together from heat and rust. Can you swack at it with a hammer? Get a good enough swing? Heat might help. We just fight with them. Remove the furnace anchor screws and wiggle both pieces back and forth? The best method is to hook the outside piece to a ratchet strap. Slow and easy. Click by click. It should break loose.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 21, 2016 4:40:30 GMT -8
The ratchet strap is a great idea, I'll try that.
Thanks vikx
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Post by vikx on Feb 21, 2016 21:45:13 GMT -8
I tied the strap around Butch's tire. LOL. (57 Shasta 1500)
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 22, 2016 6:12:38 GMT -8
When you said these things are a pain in the arse, you weren't kidding. I was able to loosen it a little by pushing, pulling, banging.... from the inside and outside. It moved enough to make a puller to get behind it. This is what I made. I put as much pressure as I dared without busting the cabinet inside and it would not let go. All it did was pull the deflector back so in effect the housing is out enough to remove the skin, which is really all I was trying to do. The actual tube did not release at all. I think I'll still try to remove it so I can bench test it. I know it fires but I would like it to run for an extended time to be sure it cycles good and would prefer to do that outside of the trailer. So I'll see if I can cut through the shield to get some spray into the tube area then repair the shield later.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2016 7:41:23 GMT -8
You will want to bench test it. I have only removed and worked on one of these and just did it recently. It was a big pain to get the two apart but with enough banging and tapping and twisting and pulling I got them separated. Then I hosed out the inside really good. Flooded the thing with water and got all the black soot out of it. I let it dry in the sun for a couple days before testing it and then it worked great with no black smoke coming out so I reinstalled it. Works great now.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 22, 2016 11:14:03 GMT -8
Yes, cleaning it up is a good idea too Larry, another good reason to bench test for sure. I had to step away from it yesterday before I got any more frustrated. I'll let you know when I finally win.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2016 13:21:04 GMT -8
You might try heating the tube where they are together. While it's hot try banging on it a bit and twisting.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 22, 2016 15:35:43 GMT -8
Yeah I like the heating idea. I'm gonna go outside and give it a shot, at least to see if I have enough room to get a torch in there, its pretty tight. Or I might just pop a pop and not worry about it tonight either, .
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 22, 2016 18:08:41 GMT -8
I just took one apart today in a 66 Shasta and it practically fell apart it was so easy. I was all ready for a fight being Monday and all. Now the water heater is another story. That is what decided to fight me today. But I know I will win. I'm smarter than that water heater. You have to remove the water heater also in order to remove the skin.
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Feb 22, 2016 20:49:24 GMT -8
Similar thing with my hot water heater, but I think it is just binding on the framing.
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