prettywoman0172
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Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 15, 2016 5:51:51 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jan 15, 2016 7:42:25 GMT -8
I'm curious, do you have a photo of the control panel, meaning the controls that are located at the bottom of the fridge in front? I can make out the knob but not much else. In the overall picture, it does not appear the trailer is vented for a propane-burning unit. If I were forced to guess I think it may be 110-V electric or 12-volt (or both) only. I'm still looking to find any info on the brand.
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prettywoman0172
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Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 15, 2016 13:25:11 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jan 15, 2016 17:10:55 GMT -8
Boy, I guess I guessed completely wrong! That may even be propane-only, rather than not-at-all....I was looking for a much larger vent as most had a double vent, and some had vents that went through the roof of the trailer. In the event that no instruction manual turns up, almost all you need is on that tag. But I am still looking....
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Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 15, 2016 17:21:18 GMT -8
I've been looking, too and nothing. Do you think it will run or even should run (providing it even works - it hasn't been tested) without a better vent? There was a hood over the stove but the person who had the trailer before me took it out and disposed of it. There is not any hook up,or vent or even a hole or anything where the hood once was. He did test the stove top which supposedly works. The fridge seems super clean for its age and how it was treated prior to its rescue.
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Post by vikx on Jan 15, 2016 22:23:55 GMT -8
The venting does not look correct to me. The top vent is similar to a stove vent and the bottom looks capped? This might have been an added option with not so correct venting. Propane fridges always have a louvered vent at the low end. The top can be vented thru the side or a chimney.
Not sure on what you should do without more information. Is the round vent on the bottom open?
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Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 16, 2016 5:54:49 GMT -8
There is only the one vent behind the stove and fridge. The round vent is behind the furnace and is connected to the furnace. The other thing on the street side of the trailer is the water thing where water comes into the water tank.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jan 16, 2016 8:10:21 GMT -8
I am of the opinion that if this were the original factory setup, then it should work properly for venting. It is quite different from the larger vents that Shasta, and several other manufacturers, used. I would have to guess there is some sort of a "funnel" setup to move the air to the round outlet.
The most important part of the puzzle is venting for combustion exhaust. These refrigerators burn very small burners, just a bit more than a pilot light would be. They don't really need huge vents, but positive air flow is important. The surrounding area needs to be open to allow for it to move air through.
As far as the concern over heat... the heat generated by the burner is very little, but the heat given off by the coils is greater from the actual refrigeration process, also requires a positive air flow. The higher the rate the better, for internal cooling of beverages and other items. I think this must have also worked in its present configuration, but you could add a 12-V fan to the vent to add to that air flow and help natural convection along. This would most be beneficial in warmer weather especially.
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Post by vikx on Jan 16, 2016 21:33:46 GMT -8
I don't like the venting even if it is factory. It's not adequate for a propane fridge. Plus, the "zip tube" is a scary little apparatus, fire runs from the front of the fridge to the burner from little holes in the tube under the fridge... Just posted about it in another thread.
Not sure I would keep it, it's old and bound to fail sooner than later. JMO.
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Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 17, 2016 7:53:29 GMT -8
Vikx, what would you replace it with?
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Post by vikx on Jan 17, 2016 21:20:18 GMT -8
Well, replacement depends on what you want to spend...
A propane replacement will cost you around $650 plus shipping for a Norcold 300n. This model will operate on propane with no 12 volt support. (some Dometic models do need 12 volts) Plan on $800 not counting installation. If you do it yourself, the fittings aren't too spendy. The gas line's already there, so a short extension may be all you need. Also, the 300n has an electric element, so an outlet within a few feet is necessary.
A dorm fridge works well, tho isn't as vintage. Again, you'll need an outlet.
Another option is an icebox. Many like there iceboxes and carry an ice chest for cold drinks as well. Just more of a vintage experience....
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jan 18, 2016 12:11:15 GMT -8
I apologize, I really dropped the ball on this discussion.
The first order of business is understanding that you could possibly be testing a piece of equipment that is 40-50 years old. Even though many of them have relatively little use time compared to their age, their age is still a huge factor in the units failing. Most if not all will fail soon even if they test in working order now. The antiquated cooling system is impossible to repair and usually most cases, just as impossible to replace.
The first test is the smell test. Before you light a match or put a thermometer inside the unit, smell of it when you open the door. If there is a hint or stronger of ammonia, then the likelihood the cooling coils are leaking is extremely great. I tested my Astral model from my Airflyte and found that the burner would light and burn...zip tube and all... but after running in 60-degree temperatures (meaning fairly low demand for cooling), it never cooled below ambient temperature. I had another unit that would work on electric, and it would cool, but the propane burner was shot. It was also a 40+ year old unit that was not worth putting time and effort into to make it work properly. As expensive as it may seem, replacement really can be the best option. I would point at the warranty as a part of that decision, which is something that does not come with a 40+ year old unit seldom comes with.....
What you replace with is a really personal choice, dictated by the type of camping you envision yourself doing the most. If you are always plugged in at a campground or in the driveway, then a dorm fridge or other electric-only model can be the best. (Remember the fact that you need access to an outlet nearby to the installation point.) If you want to be away from civilization far enough to not see the power poles, let alone plug in, then a good (spendy) propane unit may best serve your needs. Weekending-only might call only for ice chests. Personally I like the idea of having a plan that will work for any circumstance. The gas/electric combo works very well for planning that out.
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prettywoman0172
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Post by prettywoman0172 on Jan 20, 2016 19:16:19 GMT -8
Appreciate all of the info, thank you all.
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