chametzoo
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1960 Mobile Scout
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Post by chametzoo on Dec 27, 2015 6:26:38 GMT -8
This is an incredible story on so many levels! Your skill and understanding in re-creating those walls is admirable. Please keep us informed as this unique project develops.
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Post by vintagebruce on Dec 27, 2015 8:09:15 GMT -8
I think it would be pretty difficult to find anyone that is immersed in the vintage camper culture, that has not at one time or other, dreamed about owning a nice Airfloat with the Skipper being the most desirable as far as ease of towing. I am as impressed as all the other posters by the skill and attention to original detail y'all are demonstrating. When you have completed your Skipper, I venture to say you may soon start collecting Best in Class or Best in Rally trophies!
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bmxovich
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1952 Airfloat Skipper
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Post by bmxovich on Dec 27, 2015 10:28:49 GMT -8
Thanks for the very kind words, I guess it confirms that I'm not nuts after all
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Post by danrhodes on Dec 27, 2015 12:11:17 GMT -8
Thanks for the very kind words, I guess it confirms that I'm not nuts after all No, you're just the kind of nuts folks here can relate to...
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ikd
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Post by ikd on Dec 27, 2015 17:28:03 GMT -8
So very proud of you Jesse. Can't wait to go show it off with you!
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joek
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Post by joek on Dec 27, 2015 19:42:34 GMT -8
Very nice work going into it to date.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Dec 27, 2015 20:13:42 GMT -8
I'm curious as to how you will deal with Airfloat's one ever-persistent weakness in the frame design; where the tongue angles up to the hitch from the main floor frame, and has the two support struts that are bolted to the body just below the front window. In the few Airfloats I have seen, there is enough flex in the frame at that 'angle-up' from the main body frame to jar the horizontal wood they are attached to, to cause leakage and eventual failure there. I have always imagined adding interior metal angle iron(?) supports that go horizontally where those struts are attached and then mitered and bent to follow the front curve down to the floor part of the frame to support the attempted triangulation to counteract that flex. I found one example where the rebuilder simply left those supports off, but I have no idea if that eliminated the initial frame problem or simply ignored it, only to cause problems later on;
oldtrailer.com/vintage-airfloat-trailers.html Scroll down the included pics. Like so many others have said, your trailer has always been my 'Holy Grail', and it is a true treat to get to witness a fellow member who has found not one but two, and share your rebuild. Lots of two hands clapping here. Could you add a picture of how the corrugated panels end horizontally so they lay flat where the jrails cover them?
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bmxovich
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1952 Airfloat Skipper
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Post by bmxovich on Dec 28, 2015 19:52:58 GMT -8
I'm curious as to how you will deal with Airfloat's one ever-persistent weakness in the frame design; where the tongue angles up to the hitch from the main floor frame, and has the two support struts that are bolted to the body just below the front window. In the few Airfloats I have seen, there is enough flex in the frame at that 'angle-up' from the main body frame to jar the horizontal wood they are attached to, to cause leakage and eventual failure there. I have always imagined adding interior metal angle iron(?) supports that go horizontally where those struts are attached and then mitered and bent to follow the front curve down to the floor part of the frame to support the attempted triangulation to counteract that flex. I found one example where the rebuilder simply left those supports off, but I have no idea if that eliminated the initial frame problem or simply ignored it, only to cause problems later on;
oldtrailer.com/vintage-airfloat-trailers.html Scroll down the included pics. Like so many others have said, your trailer has always been my 'Holy Grail', and it is a true treat to get to witness a fellow member who has found not one but two, and share your rebuild. Lots of two hands clapping here. Could you add a picture of how the corrugated panels end horizontally so they lay flat where the jrails cover them?
Boy you've hit the nail on the head. The frames were very under built IMHO. My Skipper frame is constructed out of 2" X 1/4" angle iron! Here's a pic that shows the angle iron construction. Spindly to say the least.
And pic of how the upright braces are tied into the perimeter framing on our trailer.
This could be greatly improved as you mentioned in your post. And you also mentioned Airfloats that have had the upright braces removed. I've seen several. I believe the 57 Float Tim Heinz restored has them removed as well. And it's a necessity if using the original frame without a substantial strengthening, just my opinion again.
I believe if the original frame is strengthened or replaced with a new one of suitable construction, it won't need the upright braces. If I keep them and most likely will, they shouldn't need to be a structural support. At least that's my thinking. It just needs the frame it should of left the factory with. I'm not totally sure how I'll address it yet, haven't givin it a ton of thought at this point. The walls have kept me busy. But I'll do one of two things. Beef up the original angle iron frame and add a new rectangular tube tongue, running back to at least the axle. All new frame. Probly the easiest, smartest option. But this whole project isn't based on doing the smart thing Once i I get it stripped down I'll be picking some brains on this forum.
OK, here's a pic you asked for on the siding. Really hard to tell from the photos but where the edge is flattened, the currogated ribs taper and blend smoothly. Tim Heinz told me they were stamped from the factory to shape. I don't know how the process worked. I'll have an uphill battle doing this with my siding as I'm going all new.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Dec 29, 2015 6:32:35 GMT -8
Many thanks for the pictures. I'm really looking forward to watching your rebuild!
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 29, 2015 18:23:44 GMT -8
I am in awe...
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Post by danrhodes on Dec 29, 2015 18:31:23 GMT -8
That frame though...I'm so worried just about adding the the weight of VCT to my floor and mine has a standard 3 inch C-channel frame, though not much else. What do folks usually do to beef up an L-bracket frame like this if they don't want to replace it? That green striped trailer is so long for a frame made out of garden fence posts.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 29, 2015 18:38:50 GMT -8
That frame though...I'm so worried just about adding the the weight of VCT to my floor and mine has a standard 3 inch C-channel frame, though not much else. What do folks usually do to beef up an L-bracket frame like this if they don't want to replace it? That green striped trailer is so long for a frame made out of garden fence posts. I would replace the entire frame. Should be the easiest part of this build...
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Dec 29, 2015 18:55:36 GMT -8
I know vikx swapped a weak Cardinal frame for a beefier frame off a newer camper. I'm sure others have done it too.
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Post by vikx on Dec 29, 2015 20:53:32 GMT -8
I did. And it towed like a dream. The Cardinal ended up about 18" longer than original and 3" wider. It was a FUN build.
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elewayne
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Post by elewayne on Jan 17, 2016 14:29:19 GMT -8
One of my very favorite trailers. wish I could find one to redo. As a 40 year high end woodworker I can see that you know what your are doing. Very nice job, by the way. The only problem with the "really cool" round windows is that they don't open, so an air conditioner is a requirement. But what a cool trailer. I would, very defiantly, build a new frame. They were build too weak anyway. Ones might go straight axles and raise it up a little too so it didn't need the drop tongue and those braces. (That might not look good though). I don't know what they were thinking on that anyway. I didn't work, they all take damage in the front.
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