how do you keep your drawers/shelves shut while traveling?

Make the drawers 3/8 of an inch shorter than the opening then cut a 1/4 inch notch in the bottom near the front of the drawer about a 1/2 inch wide then fasten a i/4 inch by 7/16 strip to the cabinet so that the drawer hooks over it in the closed position. then you just lift up on the drawer as you open it to release and when you close it the draw is automatically latched.

There is that....

The baby latch idea seems a good one to me...they would give you a good, positive latch, relatively inexpensive, and don't require a huge feat of engineering. And, if they do not work out, they are not all that difficult to remove to install some other closure method.

We kept our drawer slides wood, so it's wood against wood. Needs a good tug/steady pull to open it, and they don't budge even on the bunpiest roads. For the closet, bathroom doors, we used the old fashioned latch that has a "male" side and a "female" side. Again, they take a little effort to open and close, but they don't budge on the road and we didn't have to add or change anything. Not fancy, but it works, and I am in it 4 days a week right now.

I was toying with the idea of making a rod and pin system, like some file cabinets and desks have for a lock, similar to the ones where there's one key lock in the top drawer that secures a column of drawers. In my idea there was a long vertical rod that runs down the inside of the face frame off to one side of the drawers, with "L"-shaped pins going off the side under each drawer, all controlled by a movable piece of the trim on the front edge of the counter (that serves as the handle). Pull the trim up, the pins move up into sockets in the drawer sides, and then you'd turn the trim piece 90 degrees to sit on the countertop and keep the drawers closed while traveling. When parked, the trim is rotated back into place and dropped, so it's just like the rest of the trim (invisible as a handle), and the drawers are unlocked. Probably more complicated than is needed, but it would still be pretty simple and have a high coolness factor...

My original ones used the notch method.