jerfo
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Post by jerfo on Dec 6, 2015 15:45:23 GMT -8
Hey folks, so i've been having problems with my rear window since i've gotten my camper but last night one of the pieces finally snapped. So basically it was always a REAL pain in the ass to open it. I had to use full strength on the little lever and then it would finally pop open, but last night it finally let out a big noise when i tried to turn it and the crank won't open the window anymore. It turns but just doesn't open. Here are some photos Rear window style  Gear box style  I think it might be this one om VTS but it's hard to tell. www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Slant-Sill-Window-Operator-p/vts-2001.htm And the broken arm on the other side.  I've never attempted any window repair on a camper but i'm willing to try, could some one show me the parts I need to get this thing back to working order? |
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jerfo
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Post by jerfo on Dec 7, 2015 4:25:54 GMT -8
Is this an easy fix any one?
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Dec 7, 2015 4:44:06 GMT -8
That looks a lot like the gearing on a Hehr awning style window, except the Hehrs use a round rod. The extra wire screening looks like someone had a dog....
It is not impossible to fix it mounted in the trailer, but far easier if it is removed from the mount. The gearbox is usually riveted into the frame, and that would just about require removing the window. Once the rivets are drilled out, they can be replaced with a small machine screw (actually 4 of them) and nuts. You need to get to the outside of the frame to install them. The same goes for the carrier on the opposite end.
I took all the windows apart in my 16SC to clean and polish them. Cleaning out all of the joints, anywhere that there are moving parts, allowed them all to work like new again. Before that though, they looked a lot like yours. The rusted, and bound joints provide a lot of resistance. I am not sure any of the photos I took of the windows apart survived, I recently lost a hard drive with an extensive archive of reference photos. I'll try to find them today, and if I can't, I have some of those type windows loose that I can photograph and reference.
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jerfo
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Post by jerfo on Dec 7, 2015 5:52:24 GMT -8
That would be incredible ten, thanks.
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gardnerk20
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1964 shasta 16 scs
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Post by gardnerk20 on Dec 7, 2015 6:10:45 GMT -8
the operator looks right to me, the side that has the broken arm may be your issue. just make sure you clean a lube all the joints when you put it back together. I like 3 in 1 oil it comes in a pin like applicator so you don't get it every where you don't need it.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Dec 8, 2015 4:37:48 GMT -8
Sorry about the delay here, I got the hard drive out and found it to be nearly totally DOA. I lost literally thousands of photos and reference manuals that were stored there, including a lot of old family photos and such.... as well as some of the photos from the work done over the past summer. However, I do have some windows in my cache, which I can disassemble and get some new photos and a good liik at the workings for you. Should be up today.
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portajohn
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Post by portajohn on Dec 9, 2015 16:15:41 GMT -8
Oh Man Ten,
I am so so sorry to hear about you losing all your files. That is such a Bummer.
Especially the family photos.
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jerfo
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Post by jerfo on Dec 10, 2015 5:51:03 GMT -8
How do I take the torque bar out to start replacing components? I honestly don't know where to start.
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gary350
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Post by gary350 on Dec 10, 2015 7:21:45 GMT -8
You have a broken lever arm on the hex shaft.
If you can not find someone that sells those arms remove the good arm then take it to a local casting company. Those arms are die cast in zinc so look for a casting company that does brass and zinc sand castings. There is one in Nashville TN and most large cities. You can have 1 made and probably 10 or 20 made for not very much extra cost. You will need to file to fit the hex rod and rivet hole.
I have a home sand casting outfit in my workshop I could make one in zinc about 2 hours work.
There is also another way to make your own lever arm. Go to MSC Industrial Supply online. Buy a hex punch. It will be rated for sheet metal about 20 gauge. Buy some 20 gauge sheet metal at the local Heat and AC supply company. Have them cut you a dozen pieces of metal blanks the size of your lever arm. Use the hex punch to make the hex holes in the metal blanks. Slide the hex over an hex allen wrench to hold them in place. Use about 10 layers of sheet metal to make the lever arm, drill 2 bolt holes to hole the metal pieces together then drill the rivet hole. Your lever arm with be thicker metal at the rivet but that will not be a problem. You can cut off several of the sheet metal ends to make it the correct thickness if you need to. |
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jerfo
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Post by jerfo on Dec 10, 2015 12:22:21 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Dec 10, 2015 18:16:19 GMT -8
You might be able to replace with those, however, the works in the drive gear may be unable to drive the round post. Also you may have to change the idler guide on the opposite side. The ones you picture at VTS are like the ones in the Hehr windows.
Also, just so you know, the easiest way to pull the old apart might be to remove the window from the trailer. In the Hehr windows, the idler and the gear drive are riveted to the frame.
I just did get a window out of the storage today and will try to get it apart and get you some photos.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Dec 12, 2015 21:02:02 GMT -8
Long time coming I know. Here is the workings of the Hehr awning style windows. This is the gear-drive end.  Notice all the pivot points. As dirt and rust build up it makes it tough to work the windows. This is the idler end:  This is the round torque bar, and the link coupler:  The torque bar engages the drive gear via the slots:   The gear drive and the idler are riveted into the frame. They can be drilled out, but the best way to reattach (that I found anyway) was to use machine screws and lock nuts. That requires the window be removed from the trailer. You will want a roll of putty tape to replace the window if you do remove it. It seems like a of of work but really isn't that big a job. I am not sure of the make or the availability of parts for yours. It may be possible to replace the torque bar, but you would probably have to replace the gear drive and the couplers and idler as well. |
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