Post by gettinolder on Aug 11, 2013 18:33:48 GMT -8
Dad always used the table saw for the kerf at the bottom of the drawers. Kept it a lot straighter than using router.
I have seen drawers held shut with cabinet door catches. A roller catch between the front of the drawer box and the cabinet frame would be neat. Might have to go a bit thicker with drawer box to give room to mount the roller catch.
Drawers are sometimes held shut by making a notch in the bottom sliding surface just as wide as the front edge or you can add a small board about 1/4" thick at the front to catch in the notch on the bottom of the drawer then you just lift up and pull to open.
Universal, I make my own drawers. I start out by measuring the opening to assure that the final product will fit the opening. If you are using purchased store glides be sure to allow 1/2 inch on each side for the glide. (Drawer will be 1 inch narrower than the opening). I use 1/2 inch plywood for the drawer sides, front and back and any scrap 1/8" to 1/4" material I might have for the bottom. I find that 1/4 inch underlayment works great. I use dado joints on all four corners and a dado on the bottom so the bottom fits flush with the sides. This allows for a better joint that will glue and nail up and stay in place. Once this "rectangular box" is made up, glued and nailed, I prefit it and if everthing is good, I attach my finished front to it and you are in business. For the joints, I use my pneumatic stapler with 1/4 inch crown staples (1 inch) and a good glue. I use tightbond. Here are a few pictures to put what I have said in picture format. This first photo is a top view with the front of the drawer on the left.
Overall view of the bottom
Showing how the bottom is flushed out:
This view of the front dado is typical of all four corners