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Post by universalexports on Aug 11, 2013 17:10:17 GMT -8
I am about to start making my drawers, has anyone built their own?
i was just going to use 1/2 inch x 4 inch lumber for the sides, and 1/4 flooring for the bottoms and use about 20 screws
around the bottom to attach it.
Ive been looking and most use wood with a 1/4 inch groove near the bottom to slide the 1/4 floor into
is this the best way, I have a router, can I use that to make the groves? ideas?
what do you use to keep the cabinets shut during travel?
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gettinolder
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Post by gettinolder on Aug 11, 2013 18:33:48 GMT -8
Dad always used the table saw for the kerf at the bottom of the drawers. Kept it a lot straighter than using router.
I have seen drawers held shut with cabinet door catches. A roller catch between the front of the drawer box and the cabinet frame would be neat. Might have to go a bit thicker with drawer box to give room to mount the roller catch.
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Post by universalexports on Aug 11, 2013 18:35:05 GMT -8
I have a table saw and thought about that, but I would have to make two passes, the blade is only 1/8 inch thick.
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gettinolder
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Post by gettinolder on Aug 11, 2013 18:53:11 GMT -8
2-3 passes or get a Dado blade. Until you get to wider Dado Joints, multiple passes is LOTS cheaper.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 11, 2013 20:02:08 GMT -8
Drawers are sometimes held shut by making a notch in the bottom sliding surface just as wide as the front edge or you can add a small board about 1/4" thick at the front to catch in the notch on the bottom of the drawer then you just lift up and pull to open.
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Aug 12, 2013 12:05:56 GMT -8
Universal, I make my own drawers. I start out by measuring the opening to assure that the final product will fit the opening. If you are using purchased store glides be sure to allow 1/2 inch on each side for the glide. (Drawer will be 1 inch narrower than the opening). I use 1/2 inch plywood for the drawer sides, front and back and any scrap 1/8" to 1/4" material I might have for the bottom. I find that 1/4 inch underlayment works great. I use dado joints on all four corners and a dado on the bottom so the bottom fits flush with the sides. This allows for a better joint that will glue and nail up and stay in place. Once this "rectangular box" is made up, glued and nailed, I prefit it and if everthing is good, I attach my finished front to it and you are in business. For the joints, I use my pneumatic stapler with 1/4 inch crown staples (1 inch) and a good glue. I use tightbond. Here are a few pictures to put what I have said in picture format. This first photo is a top view with the front of the drawer on the left.  Overall view of the bottom  Showing how the bottom is flushed out:  This view of the front dado is typical of all four corners
 Good luck and hpe this helps |
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Post by universalexports on Aug 12, 2013 14:53:59 GMT -8
thanks, I dont have a pneumatic stapler, but I like how you done it, I usually pre-drill a hole and use small screws.
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