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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 11:36:50 GMT -8
Boy I wish I had your skills. Or the money to hire someone to do it right. Well I guess I will take it one step at a time. I think what I will do is post a photo of what I am looking at once I lift the skins and let you friends guide me in the right direction. Of course, one thing leads to another.
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Post by bigbill on Nov 8, 2015 13:58:52 GMT -8
Basically what happens is the interior paneling is what adds strength to the framing. A trailer wall is a type of sandwich construction, it uses very weak/lite boards fastened together with mere staples then the paneling is secured to one side which helps to hold the boards together adding strength. Then you will discover that the cabinets, closets, and other interior pieces are fastened to the walls from the outside in these all serve as bracing to help support the walls from falling over. The entire trailer is a system that gives it strength to be towed along the highway. When you short circuit any of it you are weakening all of it. Then lastly you add the exterior siding which adds more strength.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 14:25:55 GMT -8
Hi bigbill, it's interesting how these things are made. None of that seems to apply to me though because nothing inside mine is original. Aside from the framing it's all been replaced. I have new solid pine cabinets put in from previous owner, and that's about it. And the mdf he had is even less supportive than the original birch that was probably in my compact. In a more positive view though I'm glad all that paneling is gone because it was obviously in terrible shape. I can start fresh the proper way. Looks like we have the same compact huh?
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Nov 8, 2015 14:48:10 GMT -8
Yours was made like that originally, no matter what the PO did to it. It all depends on whether you are willing to put it back together correctly. And the only way to insure the structural integrity of your trailer and to retain its vintage value, or remodeled value, is to rebuild it correctly. These trailers were engineered in a way that every piece serves a structural purpose. The Shastas are relatively light trailers, and some even say poorly built, yet they have survived 50+ years. And it's a time consuming task, but not difficult. After all, I'm a girl.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 15:05:01 GMT -8
It sure is crazy how long these trailers have survived! Well I am definitely gonna put paneling back in that will give the trailer the strength it needs. Is it realistic instead of doing the original birch that I do the cedar , backed by plywood? I bet with those together the paneling may even be stronger than originally. I'm not sure. By the way Suzie Q is there any photos on here of the way my compact originally looked? Specifically the paneling?
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Post by SusieQ on Nov 8, 2015 15:11:02 GMT -8
If you put a thicker paneling in correctly, you will have problems getting the skins to fit back on properly. In all honesty, the biggest lesson I learned was that it is easier to put it back together the way it was originally made. Sometimes simple improvements turn out to be difficult tasks.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 15:18:16 GMT -8
I'm not talking about the framing being bigger just the paneling inside, so I am not sure how that would affect the skins. Am I missing something?
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Post by bigbill on Nov 8, 2015 18:18:29 GMT -8
Yes the original paneling went down between the framing and the floor joist, you are not planing on installing it that way you are thinking of starting on top of the floor. My trailer is a 1500 slightly longer and the kitchen is centered on the left side.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 18:23:15 GMT -8
Now I see what everyone's saying! Thank you, yes I'm not planning on my paneling being down beside the floor joist unless that's essential. I noticed yours was a bit bigger. Cool
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Post by SusieQ on Nov 8, 2015 18:50:35 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 19:12:43 GMT -8
You're right that's a big help I understand what you are saying now. I didn't realize the paneling went on from the sides of the floorboadd. Thanks for that referral.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 8, 2015 20:00:55 GMT -8
My best piece of advice, move slowly, do one small area at a time and stop if you run into problems to ask questions.
And yes, the panels should run down the side and be sandwiched between the camper wood frame and the wall framing. That means the bench needs to come out too.
In the photo above I removed the dinette seats (one hour) and opened the "sandwich" up to slide the new panels down where it needed to be. Hopefully that makes sense.
You may find that you enjoy the challenge more than the camping.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 20:13:03 GMT -8
Sir I don't see a photo unless I'm missing something, would love to see it. I do see what you all are saying now and it does me a lot of good to be familiar with that now thanks a lot. Man I tell you if I do just what you're saying taking it slow and one step at a time I should be ok! Whatever it is that I do. I didn't expect this to be a project camper but for what I have paid for it there's no going back now. I can either freak out or slowly make this what we want it to be.
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Post by nccamper on Nov 9, 2015 5:42:45 GMT -8
I meant the photo I posted earlier in the thread. I should have been clearer.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2015 7:49:48 GMT -8
Oh yes ok sorry about that! Well now that I have examined the back wall I have realized that he framed out a new wall for the back that just came straight down.. everything behind that was just empty like you see. Literally all I have removed to get to this is the mdf cardboard paneling he had up. No insulation and no original paneling at all. I am sure you see many problem areas in this pic. That piece on the left was rotted because the guy left an open gouge in the area above the window. Letting tons of water in.
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