keri
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Post by keri on Aug 7, 2013 11:32:23 GMT -8
Do these trailers originally have trim along the lower edges (the 50's models). Mine had trim a the way around it, but it didn't match and was held on by very random methods. Some are just "L" shaped pieces of metal, then along the wheel well edges there's heavy, hard to bend trim, and then thick u-shaped channel riveted from under the door forward. It all looks so random and crappy. If it needs to be there is there something better/prettier to replace it with? And if it doesn't need to be there what can I do about the holes that are now in the skin?
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smccusk
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63 SC Restoration in progress
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1963 Shasta SC
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Post by smccusk on Aug 7, 2013 12:37:34 GMT -8
The only trim pieces I had on my trailer ware around the wheel wells. The rest was just skin with an auto edge,
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keri
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Post by keri on Aug 7, 2013 16:45:38 GMT -8
That's what I was thinking--that the only original bottom trim was around the wheel well. Is yours attached along the bottom? I've tried to look through everyone's pictures online but there aren't many close ups of the bottom of the trailers.
Does anyone else have a thick U-channel under the door, from the door forward? The framing around the door is rotten and needs to be replaced so I'm trying to figure out what it originally might have looked like.
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smccusk
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63 SC Restoration in progress
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1963 Shasta SC
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Post by smccusk on Aug 7, 2013 17:18:37 GMT -8
My wheel well trim is new U-channel which I screwed into the framing from underneath. My trailer is a 1963 at least for this model year the only trim along the bottom was in the wheel wells...not sure if other model years where different.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 14, 2013 7:43:27 GMT -8
Normally there is a "rolled edge" at the bottom which is formed when the skin is run through the creasing machine. When you order your lower panels you can have that rolled edge incorporated into the piece. Then you just cut off any excess material from the top where it slips into the S lock or Pittsburg lock. I have seen people use J Rail turned around backwards for a nice clean edge at the bottom when the rolled edge is not present.
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moonshiner
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Post by moonshiner on Nov 24, 2013 21:32:43 GMT -8
My Aristocrat has a j-rail strip running all the way from the front up and over the wheel well, to the bumper. I would like to replace some of the J-rail does any one know where I can get some? I checked VTS but every time I type in j-rail in their search is it says no item found. The other item I need is a plastic strip between each wall corner, including the corners at the ceiling. I keep going to the VTS website but am not having good luck.
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Gary
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1967 Aristocrat "Kini"
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1967 Aristocrat LoLiner ST
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Post by Gary on Nov 24, 2013 23:05:33 GMT -8
On my Aristocrat, the bottom trim is just J rail turned upside down (actually, sideways).  I found new rail at a local RV supplier. He had several sticks of "old stock" out back. If you can find it locally, you're lucky, because you can get it in full lengths - I think they were 16'. Anything you buy on-line will have to be cut to 8' lengths for UPS, or you'll have to pay exorbitant shipping for crating and freight. |
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soup
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Post by soup on Nov 25, 2013 4:44:39 GMT -8
On my Aristocrat, the bottom trim is just J rail turned upside down (actually, sideways). I found new rail at a local RV supplier. He had several sticks of "old stock" out back. If you can find it locally, you're lucky, because you can get it in full lengths - I think they were 16'. Anything you buy on-line will have to be cut to 8' lengths for UPS, or you'll have to pay exorbitant shipping for crating and freight. Awesome illustrations Gary!! |
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Nov 25, 2013 9:55:48 GMT -8
Mine was bent and nailed to the framing pieces along the bottom on the underside, except where it had the trim around the wheel well. The trim is nailed and screwed. Didn't notice if it was rolled at the bottom, but now I'm going to look.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Nov 25, 2013 16:44:40 GMT -8
You can see the "roll" at the bottom being made in this video when I had the curb side front piece of metal made for the 57 Shasta.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Nov 25, 2013 19:27:12 GMT -8
I think your better off ordering your skins without any bend at the bottom. None of these trailers "is exact or square" and by not having a pre-bent bottom edge it makes installing the top piece of skin much easier, since the top piece is installed before the bottom piece. I'm always looking for "the easier way" because I work alone skinning my trailers.
I trim off, or bend the bottom of the lower skin over the bottom of the lower wall edge. Then I take a normal 1/16" thick 1" by 1" aluminum strip and finish the lower edge with RV putty, and counter sunk screws. You can buy 16' lengths of aluminum angle at your metal supply (I.M.S. in So. Cal. areas) very cheap. And by picking it up local in full lengths you won't have much waste, reducing your cost further.
You can buff the aluminum angle on your buffer and it looks like chrome, and the buff finish will not require much up keep to stay shinny.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Nov 25, 2013 19:33:18 GMT -8
I think your better off ordering your skins without any bend at the bottom. None of these trailers "is exact or square" and by not having a pre-bent bottom edge it makes installing the top piece of skin much easier, since the top piece is installed before the bottom piece. I'm always looking for "the easier way" because I work alone skinning my trailers. I trim off, or bend the bottom of the lower skin over the bottom of the lower wall edge. Then I take a normal 1/16" thick 1" by 1" aluminum strip and finish the lower edge with RV putty, and counter sunk screws. You can buy 16' lengths of aluminum angle at your metal supply (I.M.S. in So. Cal. areas) very cheap. And by picking it up local in full lengths you won't have much waste, reducing your cost further. You can buff the aluminum angle on your buffer and it looks like chrome, and the buff finish will not require much up keep to stay shinny. I've done it both ways but if you want to match up what you have then this is the way to do it. And the way to trim to exact height is to snug it up to the bottom rail temporary like and then mark the top for the S lock or Pittsburg Lock. Which ever you have. Then take it down and cut it and you have a perfect fit. In the factory they installed the bottom sheet first and then the top and then routed all the way around the outside curb to cut the metal to the shape of the trailer. This video just showed what was needed and how it was made. Later videos show the installation. |
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