TheShastaProject
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1967 Shasta Super 19
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Post by TheShastaProject on Aug 4, 2013 17:16:37 GMT -8
Now that I am probably not getting a new roof skin any time soon, the old propane fridge vent will remain on the roof. That got some gears turning. I need to rebuild the cabinet that surrounds the fridge anyway and am not putting a propane fridge in. What about venting the hot air out the top roof vent and pulling the side air from the grill in the side of the camper? I could put a shelf in the top of the cabinet and run a drain line behind the fridge. Trim it out and done with all original parts and no new holes in Silvia.
What I am not sure of is if that would be enough vent/intake space and how can I add screening to the vent to prevent birds from roosting in it. I was not happy to see bird poo on the inside of my baby when I pulled the vent today.
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hoosierpoet
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Post by hoosierpoet on Aug 5, 2013 4:25:21 GMT -8
Seems like it would be better to draw the intake air from the roof vent, and route the exhaust through the wall vent. I'm thinking there would surely be moisture in the exhaust, if you run that straight up you might end up with condensation running back down into places you wouldn't want it to go. I'm planning to put a portable AC in the closet above where the fridge went - am putting in an ice box - and will run the vent out the side fridge vent. My trailer didn't have a roof vent for the AC, just two side vents. I figure it can draw enough air from the closet space (and there are closet vent holes). Not ready to install it yet, but I'll post photos when it's done.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Aug 5, 2013 9:44:59 GMT -8
I think it would work better to run the exhaust up through the roof vent, the hot air will want to go up anyway, and you wouldn't be sucking fresh air in over the hot roof, which might make it harder to cool...
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TheShastaProject
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1967 Shasta Super 19
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Post by TheShastaProject on Aug 5, 2013 13:55:13 GMT -8
I think it would work better to run the exhaust up through the roof vent, the hot air will want to go up anyway, and you wouldn't be sucking fresh air in over the hot roof, which might make it harder to cool... That is what I was thinking but I didn't consider condensation issues. An insulated duct up might help avoid the condensation problem. Any ideas on how to modify the vent to prevent birds from roosting in it. Don't want bird poo down the back of an air conditioner. I'm not really happy about the amount I currently have to clean up and don't want any more! My vent:
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Post by universalexports on Aug 5, 2013 14:28:04 GMT -8
I plan on venting my AC out through a refridge vent, at first glance it would seem to be to small, the one I am looking for is 6 x 22.5 inches and the back of the AC is almost twice that size, however,,, you have to consider the back of the AC is not all vent, half that area is full of aluminum fins, so as far as actual space for air to flow through it should be a lot closer to the size of the refridge vent. and considering a fan is pushing it out, I think it will work, if not I can upgrade to a larger vent later.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Aug 9, 2013 9:04:59 GMT -8
Just re-read the first post, and realized you're going to put an electric fridge in under the AC, is that correct (at first I thought you weren't putting any fridge in)? I'm not sure how much cooling air a compact compressor fridge needs compared to an AC, but it needs some, and the heat extracted from inside the fridge has to be vented just as the AC heat does.
Built-in, under-counter fridges apparently vent out their fronts because of the lack of airflow inside a counter, is that the type you are putting in? If so, then the old vents can be used solely for the AC, while the fridge vents into the camper. But if it's a regular, free-standing type like a dorm fridge, then the airflow has to be inside the cabinet along with the AC airflow. And if the AC is hogging the old vents all to itself, then you would be in effect "building in" a fridge that is meant to be free-standing, which will overheat the fridge and/or kill its efficiency.
I don't know off the top of my head how to calculate the amount of cooling air the two new appliances will need in comparison to the old propane fridge, you'd need to assess the venting requirements of both, and make sure there was enough airflow for both. Perhaps finding out how many cubic feet per minute of air each appliance's exhaust fan moves would help give you the answer. But I suspect the roof vent isn't large enough to exhaust enough air for both without some help, like more fans (a row of computer fans in the upper vent, maybe?). You might have to seal off the fridge from the AC entirely, and build into-the-camper cabinet vents for the fridge, to replicate the airflow the fridge would have if it was standing in a room. Some tricky duct work, sounds like.
You don't want the AC to intake heated exhaust from the fridge to cool itself either, as that would kill the AC's efficiency.
Interesting engineering problem.
Birds? Just add some stiff screens in the vent.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 9, 2013 12:59:26 GMT -8
For birds and rodents use hardware cloth/rat wire available at hardware store 1/4"square openings.
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