TheShastaProject
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1967 Shasta Super 19
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Post by TheShastaProject on Aug 4, 2013 15:29:05 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Aug 4, 2013 22:35:48 GMT -8
I'm guessing it isn't your roof seam. Mineral spirits won't damage the aluminum. Not sure on Naptha, but I doubt it. Also try a heat gun or hair dryer on high. It may soften the goo and make removal easier.
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TheShastaProject
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1967 Shasta Super 19
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Post by TheShastaProject on Aug 5, 2013 3:02:45 GMT -8
Thanks. I'll try the mineral spirits. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and scrap and sand the roof. That water leak put a project that was in early planning stage into high gear, get 'er done.
Posted the picture of the seam and forgot to ask if it looked good. There are no gaps. I don't think it is the source of the leak. If not the vent, I'm guessing the jchannel.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Aug 5, 2013 9:18:59 GMT -8
If it's plain ole' black roofing tar, a Windex bottle with diesel fuel in it will soften it. I've also used a thin putty knife heated with a torch to slice under fat layers of it, then the diesel to get the remainder. I don't think I'd dare put naphtha on the paint without testing it on something first. It's too close to acetone, which takes original trailer paint off in seconds.
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Aug 8, 2013 20:32:47 GMT -8
When you get down to just residue hit it with some DSR-5. It is expensive but simply amazing stuff.
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eliz65
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Post by eliz65 on Aug 15, 2013 20:11:45 GMT -8
I'm trying to figure out a similar issue. Mine isn't the black goo, but it's on the side - it's some stuff that looks like aluminum, but it's not smooth, and it isn't shining up like the rest of the aluminum. Would the DSR-5 work on that? I don't want to hurt the aluminum. Or is there something else? Or would just regular buffing do it? I haven't started on buffing. I've just been hand buffing.
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soup
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"I hate cold Soup"
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Post by soup on Aug 16, 2013 3:04:58 GMT -8
IMHO Heat gun & putty knife on roof. (Beware of scratching) Also beware, too much heat in one spot will warp skin. It's a total balancing act on a side skin and not recommended except for very tough on the roof gunk. In some cases, different grades of sand paper then working into the steel wool, then final polishing, and/or body work & paint.
All above posts on chemistry good too for side skins and final clean up on roof. "Goof Off" and the like. Just try whatever you decide in a small hard to see area first before going hog wild right next to entry door!
If it takes longer than 3 hours per square foot to clean to your satifaction, then consider new skins.
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eliz65
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Post by eliz65 on Aug 16, 2013 5:52:32 GMT -8
Thanks, soup.
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Aug 16, 2013 6:42:29 GMT -8
DSR 5 is recommended for all kinds of adhesives. You are going to want it at some point....might as well try it on this stuff. Here's the info from their website www.dsr5.com/siliconeremoval.htmSilicone Removal DSR-5 easily and quickly removes silicone and polyurethane caulks from a multitude of surfaces without damaging coatings or surrounding materials. It's totally effective and absolutely safe on metals, including aluminum, glass, reflective glass, mirrors, wood furniture, floors, cabinets fiberglass, gel coat, Plexiglas, polycarbonates, most plastics, most carpets, vinyl, fabrics, upholstery and clothing, varnished, urethaned or painted surfaces, stone surfaces, cultured marble, tiles Formica, Corian®, ceramics, enamel and porcelain surfaces, and brick. Photos show Dow Corning silicone 791 tested to ASTM C 794-93 specs on a galvanized aluminum surface. 1. Apply DSR-5 break the bond 2. Scrape to break the bond 3. Reapply on residue and wipe 4. Silicone is completely removed Adhesive Removal DSR-5 also cleanly removes butyl and urethane sealants and adhesives, glue, foam gasket tape, film or foam attachment tapes, including very high bond acrylics, transfer adhesives (emulsion or water based), duct tape, coatings, chewing gum and most other sticky substrates and their residue from all surfaces.
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eliz65
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Post by eliz65 on Aug 16, 2013 8:33:13 GMT -8
Thanks, gonekayaking. I will try this, I think. I don't have a heat gun, so I'll see if this works. The stuff on there isn't necessarily sticky, but I have no idea what it is, so I might as well try it.
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