roughgem
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Post by roughgem on Aug 3, 2013 16:19:57 GMT -8
Who paints you guys campers for you do it do u have some one else do it ? If you did it what type of paint did you use? How did u apply it ?
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Post by vikx on Aug 3, 2013 21:45:52 GMT -8
We spray ours with Rustoleum oil based enamel. The prep takes days; sanding, steel wool, and a little Bondo. Masking is tedious at best. A final wipe with solvent and we go for it. Turns out pretty good with a gravity gun.
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roughgem
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Post by roughgem on Aug 4, 2013 5:03:05 GMT -8
ok are far as clear coat what do you do ?
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soup
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"I hate cold Soup"
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Post by soup on Aug 4, 2013 5:17:47 GMT -8
X2, see post #2! Rustoleum is the easiest and most forgiving paint for novice painter on camper skins. They have the clear also. Can be purchased everywhere and you can match for patch with spray cans too for later area repairs. Best part is you don't have to buy hardener and only thins with acetone, 32oz to a gallon of paint. Meaning you mix your first gun can then dump the rest of thinner in the gallon can. Sense there is no hardener the paint will stay good mixed in the gallon can "pre thinned". I still have over half a gallon left from last camper and will be more than enough for the 66 compact I'm doing right now. This one was painted with all Rustoleum. Glaoss white from gallon can and spray gun. All other colors from spray can from walmarts shelf!; vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/262/1971-wildcat-flash-back-future?page=3 |
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Aug 16, 2013 12:08:05 GMT -8
We just completed our paint job with Sherwin Williams semi gloss industrial acrylic enamel, about $53/gal at my contractor discount (10-20%?). Hand sanded once with 3M sponges, primed with same brand primer at about same price. Applied with brush and 6 inch hot dog roller which left a very consistently even orange peel surface that minimized the many love dings. I liked that I didn't need to fully mask for overspray, making inevitable touch ups much easier. The acrylic fully hardens in 30 days, and is recoated overnight, which helps when creating two tones or stripes. Plus, the paint will not chalk like the oil enamels and doesn't need a clear coat. Originally wanted to spray but didn't want to buy the equipment, didn't have a good place to paint, and preferred the water clean up. Maybe not for everyone, especially a perfection restoration goal, but it is very serviceable and pleasing to our eyes. BTW, can buy only in gallon quantities, but need much less for a small camper. Wish I had asked that a base can could be split in two in order to make the two colors we used from one gallon total?
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Aug 16, 2013 13:55:19 GMT -8
I have the equipment and have been automotive painting for years.. I use Sharpe HVLP spray guns and will use catalyzed urethane enamel paint when it is time, with a UV treated clearcoat. Why the estra expense/step?
After all the work I've put in, I want the toughest most durable p[aint I can apply to the skin, and I have found that this system of paint gives great results and lasts for many years.
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gonekayaking
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enjoying using my camper and not working on it anymore!
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1956 Shasta 1500
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Post by gonekayaking on Aug 16, 2013 19:39:52 GMT -8
I used the Ace Hardware equivalent of Rustoleum, can be tinted to any color, available at all ACE stores that sell paint. I did not have a sprayer so I did the basic rolled on paint job. Paint thinned with mineral spirits with a couple of drops of Japan Drier (live in Ca so hardener is very hard to find) as a hardener alternative. About 6 coats on bottom, 4 coats on top. Prep Prep Prep. It came out pretty well I think for about $100 in materials. It did take a couple of weeks to do though. On my blog aguadream.blogspot.com/2012/10/days-and-days-and-days-of-painting.html also listings there to many other paint resources. |
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 16, 2013 20:17:54 GMT -8
I use an outside painter and you have all seen his work. Now it's a one year waiting list so I created a monster and may have to find a new one or learn to do it myself. I smell a new series of videos.
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Post by vikx on Aug 16, 2013 21:59:56 GMT -8
Hopefully, the new videos will contain the "learning curve". LOL. It's not easy and I'm happy to have help with the prep.
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 17, 2013 5:19:29 GMT -8
Hopefully, the new videos will contain the "learning curve". LOL. It's not easy and I'm happy to have help with the prep. I've been thinking about just that. You know that I leave my mistakes and screw ups in the videos just so others can see that everything doesn't always come out exactly the way you want it to. Stuff goes wrong. Mistakes are made. So I think that if I do this, I will show my "learning curve". Might be fun. |
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1958 Shasta "Penny"
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1958 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by 1958 Shasta "Penny" on Aug 17, 2013 8:43:10 GMT -8
"So I think that if I do this, I will show my "learning curve". Might be fun."
*chanting* DO IT! DO IT! DO IT!
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Post by bigbill on Aug 17, 2013 12:41:28 GMT -8
Larry the only important thing you have to know before starting to paint is this. If you mess up the worst thing that can happen is you have to sand it off and start over.
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