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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 14, 2015 6:26:48 GMT -8
We picked up our 1966 Airflyte this past weekend and have spent the week emptying it and figuring out what we are going to/need to do in order to make her campable. At this time we will not be doing a total teardown/rebuild - although I might at some point in the future. With that in mind, anything that we do now I would like to make sure that it is easy to get out in the future. While we are not redoing it all we do want to make sure that we are not "just putting lipstick on" at this time. Couple of pictures from picking her up, before driving home with her.   Here is a link to a dropbox folder with all the pictures that I have taken to date. She is in decent shape. Not a ton of water damage that we can tell and if we wanted to put up with some roughness we could probably take her out camping right now. But here is the list of things that we are going to be working on to get her up and going (I am sure more will come up, but the big thing is that we do not want to redo everything): -get LP updated to single tank and looked at - having furnace and stove/oven looked at as well and hoping they work or can be fixed -rebuild gaucho bed and new covers (have some foam and cleaning them with vodka) -new dinette seats to include part of frame as the current plwood seats and backs are in flimsy shape (picked up 4" HD foam from Joanns on sale and fabric as well) -add 12v electrical with battery box out front on tongue -find gas light parts OR make the change to 12v light, not sure what we will do there -current electrical works with 110v - need to check all outside running lights yet though -new ceiling - a PO pulled ceiling down at some point due to water damage. Looks like I will need to replace (or maybe sister?) a few boards. Also looks like I might need to reframe/reinstall the roof vent. -paint, yes paint, everything inside (not to expensive or tie consuming) -fix a few seams in linoleum floor and maybe add checkerboard instead -take out old water tank and put in new tank? PO had cut copper line to faucet and put in a outside faucet that is run directly to faucet. might want to do a dual faucet so can use both hookups and tank (dishes and maybe cooking/boiling, no drinking) Lots to do, but so looking forward to it. Trying to go with the do something everyday to stay on track. I know I will have tons of questions and will be creating many other threads for specific questions  I am going to try to keep this thread updated with progress and will continually add photos to the dropbox folder linked above. |
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Post by vikx on Jul 14, 2015 22:51:48 GMT -8
She's beautiful! Congrats on such a nice find.
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Post by trihartsfield on Jul 15, 2015 7:48:39 GMT -8
That is the same camper I bought.
I would suggest at least two things:
1. Remove all the j-rail and replace the butyl tape. Cheap easy to do and will reseal the seams.
2. Do not use the copper tubing for the gas. Just go and get the rubber hoses made and use T's or inline connectors. I tried to reuse and flair my gas lines and could never get them to stop leaking.
I gutted mine and replaced any wood rot from the inside and then reinforced the framing by adding 1x3's and pocket jigging them. Worked well.
Chris
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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 15, 2015 13:27:07 GMT -8
That is the same camper I bought. I would suggest at least two things: 1. Remove all the j-rail and replace the butyl tape. Cheap easy to do and will reseal the seams. 2. Do not use the copper tubing for the gas. Just go and get the rubber hoses made and use T's or inline connectors. I tried to reuse and flair my gas lines and could never get them to stop leaking. I gutted mine and replaced any wood rot from the inside and then reinforced the framing by adding 1x3's and pocket jigging them. Worked well. Chris I might bug you as I go through the process - did you document your process with pictures and post them anywhere by chance? Not sure what you mean by pocket jigging, will have to look into that. I do have time scheduled with an LP guy - the LP is the one thing I don't want to mess with myself. He is going to check all lines along with the stove/oven and the furnace. Did you keep the copper underneath and then T once inside? That sounds great as the line coming up is right underneath where the fridge is. We are still debating what to do about he has light as it is missing some pieces. It looks like the line to the original fridge is already capped so good there. |
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Post by vikx on Jul 15, 2015 22:55:07 GMT -8
Great advice on the J rail, Trihartsfiel! Make sure the wood edging (curbing) is sound and able to take a tight screw for re-install. The putty must be seated by the J rail to form a secure seal.
Most original gas lines are in fine condition and much tougher than today's copper tubing. Also, rubber is NOT LEGAL inside a trailer. So, the line to appliances should be copper.
There are newer RV lines that meet code, but are more expensive and not proven over the years.
Save your original copper gas lines if at all possible...
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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 16, 2015 4:51:00 GMT -8
Great advice on the J rail, Trihartsfiel! Make sure the wood edging (curbing) is sound and able to take a tight screw for re-install. The putty must be seated by the J rail to form a secure seal. . Thanks. Will be ordering the tape and J rail this weekend. Is there a different type of rail that goes on curb side above the door? Right now there is nothing there - PO took it off. But we are wondering if there is/ was something up there that could originally let an awning be used. Well not 5 minutes after posting this I found my answer, hah. Teaches me to search first. Looks like I should be reusing my old j rail which would be super nice. Also we do have the awning rail and I will need to see if I can fix that to reuse. Looks like I will just have to order to some tape |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jul 16, 2015 5:28:34 GMT -8
Yep.... www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Awning_Rail_90_degree_p/vts-876.htm You should be able to order this from whomever you order the J-channel from. Mind the shipping procedures for any of this, it may work out less expensive if you have the opportunity to buy locally to you, though a dealer. BTW, nice Airflyte ya got there. It looks in real good shape and should make a great project for you for a long time. Believe me, these are never "done"...only ready for the next step...  I have a '64 canned-ham version myself, and the layout is all the same, with a few minor differences and the body shape of course, but may be able to help with a few things, like your questions about the rear gaucho. I'll try to get some photos and see if I can help later today. |
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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 17, 2015 8:05:51 GMT -8
BTW, nice Airflyte ya got there. It looks in real good shape and should make a great project for you for a long time. Believe me, these are never "done"...only ready for the next step... I have a '64 canned-ham version myself, and the layout is all the same, with a few minor differences and the body shape of course, but may be able to help with a few things, like your questions about the rear gaucho. I'll try to get some photos and see if I can help later today. Thanks! I am starting to see that I will never be done..... The rear gaucho has me a little stumped so any pictures of a working one would be great. I could easily frame it out to get rid of the gaucho, but by wife and I really like it and want to keep it in working condition. Right now there are 4 legs on the front (two on each end you cannot see in the blow picture, one of which blocks access to the left under cabinet), but the plywood that is attached does not go all the way back to the rear wall. In the picture it is pushed back as far as the legs will allow:  It seems like if I put the legs behind the front face the plywood would go to the back wall. So this has me thinking of putting a couple of hinged legs on so the plywood goes to back wall, but would have leg support when open as a bed. The current framing is made up what I am calling 'support boxes':  I would like to add a separation 'wall' in there so the rear access door (back right in the above picture) has its own little compartment. What I need to look at and figure out is how to do that without screwing into the floor. And creating enough framing to support my wife and I on it pulled out. |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jul 17, 2015 9:25:06 GMT -8
I'm not sure if I can make this make any sense without photos, but I haven't gotten a chance at mine yet... Your rear gaucho looks pretty complete to me, with the exception of the added "support boxes". There should be a couple slats that run from the partition part to the rear wall support.  The top panel that is against the rear wall (with the bag sitting on it)should be anchored so that is does not slide with the slider, and the slider should slide beneath it. The slider will not reach the full width, but when it is altogether and made up it isn't noticeable. The slider part is also NOT anchored and can be lifted off freely, except for the rear panel over the top of it.  When you have everything together, place the two smaller cushions one in front of the other, rather than stacked. The original cushions were hinged to work that way, and the bottom cushion should fit perfectly on the base with it pushed in till the legs hit, as you described. On the canned ham, if the cushion is extended up the back wall it interferes with the rear window. Again, I'll find some photos for you. I have a couple of a Compact, bit different layout but same concept:      |
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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 17, 2015 10:07:29 GMT -8
I'm not sure if I can make this make any sense without photos, but I haven't gotten a chance at mine yet... Your rear gaucho looks pretty complete to me, with the exception of the added "support boxes". There should be a couple slats that run from the partition part to the rear wall support. The top panel that is against the rear wall (with the bag sitting on it)should be anchored so that is does not slide with the slider, and the slider should slide beneath it. The slider will not reach the full width, but when it is altogether and made up it isn't noticeable. The slider part is also NOT anchored and can be lifted off freely, except for the rear panel over the top of it. When you have everything together, place the two smaller cushions one in front of the other, rather than stacked. The original cushions were hinged to work that way, and the bottom cushion should fit perfectly on the base with it pushed in till the legs hit, as you described. On the canned ham, if the cushion is extended up the back wall it interferes with the rear window. Thank you! I had seen pictures of the cushions with fabric on another post so I knew those were hinged to sit one in front of another. The current cushions are in ok shape, so with some vodka and another 1/2" sandwich layer of HD foam glued on we will reuse them for now. And on each side there are slider rails for the bed to pull out on. One part that I did not know was that the top panel should be anchored in - I am thinking that it should be 'hinged' in so that it easily lifts up to accommodate the bottom panel (and light bulb goes off in my head as to why there were holes for something on the top panel!). And with it hinged it could provide easier access to the storage underneath if ever needed. Now I will need to look at the rear wall and figure out where the 'studs' are to anchor it into. I also just assumed that the bottom panel would need to be all the way back - though now that I think about it, it does pull out all the way as it is and fits perfect with the top panel to form the bed so it could not go back the whole way to the rear wall. Now that I know it is set up correctly I should be able to add in some more permanent supports to get rid of the 'box supports', and get rid of the extra legs in the front. Also think I will replace the plywood that is in there adding a little bit thicker stuff - current plywood is a little flimsy and makes me wonder if it would last much longer. If you get a chance to add pictures of yours that would be great. While the compact ones help (I had seen them before in another thread I think also), it would be awesome to see one like I have. Thanks again! |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jul 17, 2015 13:41:51 GMT -8
You would be surprised at how strong the lighter grade plywood is. Heavier is not necessarily better, just heavier. The pullout in the '64 uses 1/8" birch, same as the wall paneling, as the gaucho base.
When the weight of the bed and users is spread out over the supports to the wall and floor through the framing, it doesn't take anywhere near as much material as you may think. If anything, maybe add an extra slat or two across underneath the pullout. You are right, correct photos will help make the point...I'll get there. I promise!
You are also correct with the idea of hinges. The original design allows for plenty of access to the storage underneath, but there are times when a "full view" is a great idea.
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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 22, 2015 18:53:34 GMT -8
Well there turned out to be much more water damage than I originally found. I was starting to work on the gaucho bed and found the following by stepping in a nice soft spot - this is on the curb side right behind the closet:  So I will now be gutting everything from the inside and rebuilding it. I am going to keep the same layout and try to reuse as much of the original material that I can. Expect to see many threads from me with many different questions as I work through it  . I have the time and am hopeful to get it completed in the next 6 weeks or so. |
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Post by vikx on Jul 22, 2015 22:19:15 GMT -8
Gutting is never recommended...
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Post by bucketheadmn on Jul 23, 2015 5:04:56 GMT -8
Gutting is never recommended... This I did not know. I figured by removing everything on the inside it would make it easier to put the new floor in. So I should I leave in the built-in closet and kitchen cabinets and work around them? In doing so how do I replace the floor underneath each? I could piece in a new floor around the walls, but then the wood right under the closet walls is most likely rotted as well since the big rot is right next to the closet. I do not have pictures of underneath the kitchen cabinets right now (will take some tonight), but some of the flooring could stand to be replaced as well, the area where the fridge goes. While it is not rotted out it will make putting new linoleum on top of it tough since it is a little water damaged (I have pulled out that insulation and cleaned it up, just don't have an updated pic right now):  |
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Post by vikx on Jul 23, 2015 10:28:34 GMT -8
The cabinets are actually holding the walls square and up. If you can piece in the bad floor areas, you might be able to leave the cabinets in place. It's certainly possible to remove bottom screws and slip a floor piece under, then re-attach.
If you want to replace the entire floor, the trailer should be dismantled. Getting to the edges and piecing from the inside will not provide enough strength and support. Take a look at some of our builds here on the board (restoration threads) to see the process and the way the walls are attached. Also, there are carriage bolts anchoring the body to the frame; going thru the floor and floor joists and attaching the walls. Some walls are on top of the floor, some at the side. In either case, it is very difficult to secure them working from the inside.
I'm sorry your trailer needs more than expected. We have been there/done that and are here to help.
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I am going to try to keep this thread updated with progress and will continually add photos to the dropbox folder linked above.
. I have the time and am hopeful to get it completed in the next 6 weeks or so.