roughgem
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Post by roughgem on Jul 31, 2013 3:08:38 GMT -8
i know on most campers you seal the hole roof. is it the same for these vintage babes? if so were do you start it at on the front and rear since the camper is rounded? or would i be better off to seal the seams and around the vent?
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Jul 31, 2013 17:41:34 GMT -8
Most folks here will tell you that you should rely on the butyl tape under the J-rails for proper sealing. Does it show evidence of leaks (water damage on the inside, musty smells, etc)? If so, you might as well pop off the rails and peek at the framing which will undoubtedly show some rot. Now the can of worms is open and you will be compelled to (as I have done) fix the rot, maybe scab on a few convex rafters to oppose the ones that are concave, and while you are at it, just rip off the whole roof and add better insulation and maybe a Fantastic Fan. Buy new J-rails instead of cleaning up the old (now hopelessly bent originals). It's a slippery slope, and if I sound a little crabby, I just put in my third long day in a row doing a paint job (with two more to go). Meanwhile, my wife is having a ball shopping for Melmac dinner ware and vintage table cloths, sewing the awning, and generally getting all glampy. I'll be happier when the canoe slips in the water and I view the camper again after a nice paddle.
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Post by universalexports on Jul 31, 2013 18:05:36 GMT -8
like he said, any roof sealant is just a patch that will eventually fail, you need to find the problem and fix/replace it. thats really the only way to guarantee a long leak proof fix.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 31, 2013 18:21:18 GMT -8
They should make a huge vat full of goop that we could just dip our trailers in.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Jul 31, 2013 20:18:26 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Jul 31, 2013 21:55:45 GMT -8
They should make a huge vat full of goop that we could just dip our trailers in. Mobil, PLEEEZE do not give people ideas... someone will be offering a tank to do it... LOL Too Funny! |
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Post by vikx on Jul 31, 2013 22:11:46 GMT -8
Roughgem, the less sealant the better. If you suspect your roof is compromised there are sealants to use on the roof seams (Paint on Proflex, NOT Caulk) and around roof protrusions (Dicor self leveling lap sealant) They are meant to do a final seal on repaired and re-puttied fixtures. Dicor can be removed (elbow grease)and is used on roof vents so that they can be repaired.
NEVER Coat an entire vintage trailer roof! The coatings are meant to be UV resistant and reflect sunlight. They do a poor job sealing anything. Not only that, but the coating will fail, allowing water to creep under and rot the roofing.
I hope this helps.
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roughgem
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Post by roughgem on Aug 1, 2013 7:30:27 GMT -8
Roughgem, the less sealant the better. If you suspect your roof is compromised there are sealants to use on the roof seams (Paint on Proflex, NOT Caulk) and around roof protrusions (Dicor self leveling lap sealant) They are meant to do a final seal on repaired and re-puttied fixtures. Dicor can be removed (elbow grease)and is used on roof vents so that they can be repaired. NEVER Coat an entire vintage trailer roof! The coatings are meant to be UV resistant and reflect sunlight. They do a poor job sealing anything. Not only that, but the coating will fail, allowing water to creep under and rot the roofing. I hope this helps. This is the Answer I was looking for thanks |
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Aug 3, 2013 6:40:25 GMT -8
You could build ramps at both ends of your swimming pool and fill it with 50,000 cans of Plasti-Dip...
Believe it or not, there's a Youtube vid of how to do it to a car:
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Aug 3, 2013 14:40:39 GMT -8
Good grief.
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Post by vikx on Aug 3, 2013 22:48:47 GMT -8
Good Bad Grief.
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