keri
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Post by keri on Jul 29, 2013 10:43:35 GMT -8
Old breaker system by Keri, on Flickr This is what the current "breaker" system for my trailer looks like (ignore the dirt dobber mess--I've been procrastinating on cleaning this because it grosses me out). It is located in the cabinet across the front over the dinette on the street-side wall. Then there's a wire running down to the plug on the side of the trailer. All the electric works but I would like to add another outlet and change to a 30 amp system. My plan is to run the wire for the new outlet then have someone else do all the final hookup (because I know nothing about electric). So my questions are--is this feasible? Can the new system stay where the old breaker is? It is hard to get to and could move down to the floor on that side (I'm using a different water tank system so there will be nothing under the dinette), but I don't feel comfortable doing that on my own. At what point in the rebuild do I need to do all that? And how can I find someone qualified to do it for me? I know nothing and this is definitely the part I'm most worried about. I know I'm in over my head with the electrical and even just trying to read the threads in this section confuses me.
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keri
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Post by keri on Jul 29, 2013 10:44:13 GMT -8
I live in Dallas, in case that helps with locating someone to help.
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txoil
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1960 Shasta Deluxe 19
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Post by txoil on Jul 29, 2013 23:22:00 GMT -8
Keri..Yes, you CAN put a new breaker box in that space.( But perhaps it may not be the best location) I would advise that you should put it where it is both out of the way and accessable. Imagine a dark night and a breaker pops and needs to be reset. Having the box where it can be easily accessed is just a good practice. Now then, just for peace of mind, you should replace the old wire with new material, and while doing so you can configure your new system to any particular needs you may have. You can hire an electrician to do the work, and tell him or her what your needs are for your system. Will you be boondocking a lot, or staying at RV parks with 30 amp service?? What kind of appliances and power load will you need? We are restoring a 19 foot Deluxe, and have decided to go with an all AC system, except for battery LED overhead and closet lights, since we have generator capacity for all the appliances and receptacles, and it saves the weight, expense and venting battery issues of installing a 12VDC seperate system. Sorry for the verbose response, but the short answer is figure out your elec. requirements and hire an electrician who will install your new system. You will KNOW that your camper is protected by a safe system.
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keri
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Post by keri on Jul 30, 2013 7:19:34 GMT -8
So just a regular electrician can do it? I figured there needed to be some kind of special "trailer" electrician. That's good to know! And thank you for the info on the box being easy access.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 30, 2013 9:50:18 GMT -8
I'm not the expert. But I believe there is a difference between trailers and houses in the way that AC grounds are connected (something about hooking the ground and neutral together in a house breaker box but not in a camper, IIRC). There's nothing that a "regular" electrician would find difficult, but he must know the difference to prevent your getting shocked. I'd ask Vik.
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txoil
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Post by txoil on Jul 30, 2013 17:03:50 GMT -8
On a camper, you must run a ground to the frame. The original wiring used a body ground in that the ground was on the skin of the trailer ( but prone to shorts ). When you install your new breaker box, run a heavy wire from your neutral/ground bus to an area on the frame, which has been ground down to bare metal, and the wire bolted to the bare metal on the frame.
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Post by vikx on Jul 30, 2013 22:59:41 GMT -8
The Neutral and Ground bar are ALWAYS isolated in a travel trailer! Do not connect the white neutrals and copper grounds to the same bar. There really is a difference in a house and a trailer. The neutral/ground separation prevents shocks from "hot skin" issues.
Always run a ground from the breaker box to the trailer frame.
Even in my oldest 50s trailers, if there is a ground wire, it is never connected to the common/neutral bar.
Be Safe.
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