1958 Shasta "Penny"
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1958 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by 1958 Shasta "Penny" on Jul 24, 2013 18:02:49 GMT -8
Would this set up work to install an AC?If we built out a shelf on the upper part of this closet to put the AC on with a drip pan, cut out section in the outer skin and install the vent from VTS (vent size 9-3/4"H x 19-1/4"W and the AC size is 15.3"d x 17.8"w x12"h) and prop it open during use. Would there be enough ventilation on the sides using the existing vertical holes in the closet on the right side, and there is nothing on the other side. Make sense? There is already a junction box for electricity on the floor by the wheel well. And we can run a drain tube down through the floor? Then I would have a cut out on the closet door for the front for the air to blow out. Thanks in advance for your input!
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Post by universalexports on Jul 24, 2013 18:43:29 GMT -8
I dont know why it wouldnt work, but you will need to install a pan and drain under it to catch the water drippage.
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1958 Shasta "Penny"
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1958 Shasta Airflyte 16
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Post by 1958 Shasta "Penny" on Jul 25, 2013 17:18:34 GMT -8
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hoosierpoet
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Post by hoosierpoet on Jul 25, 2013 18:28:08 GMT -8
That's where I'm planning to put a portable AC, it fits perfectly and the vent is already there. (The trailer originally had a propane fridge, it's going back to an icebox.) Just a matter of running the hose to the existing vent.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Jul 26, 2013 15:40:24 GMT -8
Just make sure that all your vents in the walls and closet are of at least the same area as the corresponding vents on the unit (and subtract the area of any louvers). If it has to suck or blow air through smaller vents it will have to work harder, use more juice, and heat up.
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Loon's Nest
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The miracle won't be when we finish, the miracle is that we had the courage to start.
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66 1500 Shasta
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Post by Loon's Nest on Aug 5, 2013 11:50:25 GMT -8
Finally in the planning stages now for our interior and the AC in our 66 1500. We are considering removing the bunk window and in re-making the cabinets over the sink, continue them to include a new cabinet with space for a 5000 BTU unit that would be put on sliders. Making the window space larger, covering the outside with a new vent cover that lifts up,(Like the above from 58 Shasta) so the AC could slide out to be used as needed. No drain tube needed or a drain tube to keep it from dripping down the side? Efficiency of it this way? Phil thinks those sliders he used in our closet drawers from Woodcraft will be strong enough to hold it up, I'm thinking we will need some kind of bracing underneath.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Aug 5, 2013 14:05:44 GMT -8
Neo, it depends on the weight rating of the slides. All the slides I've looked at have weight ratings, and if they sell them online the specs might be right on the website. You do want to make sure that the walls they are attached to are rigid enough not to allow them to spread and pull the slides far enough apart for the whole thing to drop out of the tracks. As for the drain, I guess it depends on how quickly the water stops dripping after you shut it off. I suspect that the innards stay cool enough to condense humid air for a little while after shutdown. So without a drain tube, you'd either have to shut it off far ahead enough of leaving to let it all drip out before you push it back into the camper, or make it waterproof underneath so that you can just wipe up the residual drips at your next stop.
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Loon's Nest
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66 1500 Shasta
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Post by Loon's Nest on Mar 2, 2014 8:50:54 GMT -8
Thanks, Cowcharge. I just picked this up (or reread it like it was new today-brain fogged in again). Yes, all things to consider, the sides and slides and drain tube regardless of outside sliding. I'm liking the under the bed placements more and more. Looking at newer campers with small ac units and how they are vented has been helpful. Cabinets are framed or in stages of being frame for extra support. My concern is he has over engineered and supported all the walls etc and added enough Kreg jigged screws, the whole thing will have a BMI over 26.
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Post by kto17 on Mar 2, 2014 10:05:51 GMT -8
You will need to make a metal box to go from the back of the AC unit to the vent. Seal it so all exhausted air is forced out the vent.
New window AC units are designed to blow the moisture out the back with the hot air. They only drip in extreme hot weather. I live in GA and learned this the hard way a few years ago. So you need to seal the hot humid exhausted air out the back from getting to any wood.
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Roothawg
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1963 Avalair Mark II
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Post by Roothawg on Apr 8, 2014 18:02:39 GMT -8
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soup
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Post by soup on Apr 9, 2014 14:32:12 GMT -8
Would this set up work to install an AC? Also be advised. Look at pic above of the vented door from VTS. Under the lock/latch on the door the frame jamb is solid but has two cutouts one on each side, about 2" long each. I should know. Gingersnap ordered one and drop shipped it here. VTS had no explination as to why it has the two cutouts. Pretty dumb if you ask me. It's two places where water will leak into the camper unless you seal them somehow, especially if your not sitting level during rain or if hard rain blowing on the curb side of the trailer. (where her old fridge vent used to be) Like one way to fix would be to epoxy old trailer skin behind the door jamb on the inside of trailer jamb face, then use gutter sealer on the outside face of the jamb to keep water from running in. The cut outs are level to the inside cut of the frame jamb so water laying in the bottom lip just poors into the camper through those two cutouts!
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soup
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Post by soup on Apr 9, 2014 14:36:40 GMT -8
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