RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 4, 2015 7:52:28 GMT -8
I will be re-configuring the layout of the propane tanks and battery on my 65 Aloha as it was poorly executed and not re-usable as purchased. The original propane 2-tank mounting rack will be re-used but otherwise I will be installing all new cross members, battery box, wiring, etc. Searched the site and couldn't really find anything on the subject.
Obviously, I will have to work within the space constraints of the frame and body. Just fishing for considerations, ideas and feedback on what has and hasn't work for you. I want to keep it simple, and clean but include things like the breakaway switch and maybe a 12V J-box. I plan to run separate 12V DC and 120V AC systems with 12V for primary use.
The trailer came with the battery mounted inside which I doubt was the original location. I want the battery on the tongue for ease of access, maybe in front near the coupler. Also, I plan to install a new sidewinder jack through the coupler.
Sorry, no pics at this time as there is nothing to see but a bare frame. However, you are most welcome to post pics of your set ups with perhaps a brief explanation of what you like/dislike about it.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 4, 2015 9:16:46 GMT -8
I like the battery inside the trailer for security. It can be safely done if you have the space. If it has to go on the tongue, the best place is in front of the tanks, because it's narrower and will have less effect on turning/backing radius. Just make sure your "side or top" mounted jack handle clears, as some types move up and down.
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Post by vikx on Apr 4, 2015 21:04:22 GMT -8
Here's one tank on my Cardinal with a custom made bracket:  You can also cut the original tank plate down to fit a tank and battery box:   If a person wants two tanks, the battery may fit either forward or behind:  |
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 6, 2015 17:02:37 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies and pics, most helpful.
A few observations:
My trailer came with the propane rack bottom plate attached to cross members. I see bottom plates attached directly to the frame which is a much cleaner installation than how mine came.
I also see battery mount cross members fastened to the bottom inside lip of the "C" channel frame. I like that it minimizes the visual impact of the battery but also a good solution in a tight fit situation.
The sidewinder jack handles pictured are all in front over the coupler, this would be my preference, no clearance issues.
One thing I want is enough clearance in front of the trailer body to wash it without beating up the back of my hand.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,623
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 6, 2015 17:32:06 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies and pics, most helpful. A few observations: My trailer came with the propane rack bottom plate attached to cross members. I see bottom plates attached directly to the frame which is a much cleaner installation than how mine came. I also see battery mount cross members fastened to the bottom inside lip of the "C" channel frame. I like that it minimizes the visual impact of the battery but also a good solution in a tight fit situation. The sidewinder jack handles pictured are all in front over the coupler, this would be my preference, no clearance issues. One thing I want is enough clearance in front of the trailer body to wash it without beating up the back of my hand. The MOST IMPORTANT consideration in fabricating a mount for your battery and propane tanks is safety and securely mounted. IMO, you should be able to grab any tank, or battery and use it to roll your trailer around without any movement. During an accident the tank and battery should never leave the trailer. Batteries sitting loose inside a plastic box held to the frame with only a nylon strap are NOT secure. I have come to this "opinionated conclusion" by working on vintage trailers "after the accident". I have seen propane tanks ripped from the trailer and the entire tank valve ripped out of the tank. In one case a lead acid battery was picked up off the road after it was ripped from the trailer, and the tow truck driver placed it on the brand new Marmoleum floor, ruining the flooring with an acid stain. It's not pretty to see what happens to a trailer that had the interior panels loosely secured from the inside, and poorly reinstalled cabinets, and walls. Think safety. |
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Apr 6, 2015 18:09:49 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies and pics, most helpful. A few observations: My trailer came with the propane rack bottom plate attached to cross members. I see bottom plates attached directly to the frame which is a much cleaner installation than how mine came. I also see battery mount cross members fastened to the bottom inside lip of the "C" channel frame. I like that it minimizes the visual impact of the battery but also a good solution in a tight fit situation. The sidewinder jack handles pictured are all in front over the coupler, this would be my preference, no clearance issues. One thing I want is enough clearance in front of the trailer body to wash it without beating up the back of my hand. The MOST IMPORTANT consideration in fabricating a mount for your battery and propane tanks is safety and securely mounted. IMO, you should be able to grab any tank, or battery and use it to roll your trailer around without any movement. During an accident the tank and battery should never leave the trailer. Batteries sitting loose inside a plastic box held to the frame with only a nylon strap are NOT secure. I have come to this "opinionated conclusion" by working on vintage trailers "after the accident". I have seen propane tanks ripped from the trailer and the entire tank valve ripped out of the tank. In one case a lead acid battery was picked up off the road after it was ripped from the trailer, and the tow truck driver placed it on the brand new Marmoleum floor, ruining the flooring with an acid stain. It's not pretty to see what happens to a trailer that had the interior panels loosely secured from the inside, and poorly reinstalled cabinets, and walls. Think safety. Agreed, which is one reason why I plan to re-use the original propane rack as I'm sure the steel is heavier and of a better quality than anything I will find new. A battery secured to the cross members with a proper hold down through the bottom of the plastic box would be OK. You'd still need the strap to hold the lid on the box. In an accident, all bets are off no matter how well your trailer is put together. Too many variables. By all means, use best practices and be safe. |
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