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Post by danrhodes on Mar 25, 2015 13:20:59 GMT -8
The more I start poking around this trailer, the more I think it makes sense to have the C-channel frame, which stops after the rear spring hanger, extended all the way to the rear. It's lasted well enough with just a thin wood floor cantilevered back there, but I did notice some cracks in the original floor tiles right at the spot where the frame stops, so now I'm worried.
Anyone here do this? How are the pieces generally joined...back to back? intermediate splice metal?
Are there such things as mobile trailer frame welders (I can't tow it in it's current state, and don't want to sink too much more time into it without resolving this issue)?
Does anyone think it's a bad idea to simply bolt some C-channel framing onto the existing frame, without welding (either back to back, or smaller channel within the larger "C", with a shim on top).
What would a person pay for such a thing (I'll add the 50% California tax onto your experience elsewhere).
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poncho62
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Post by poncho62 on Mar 25, 2015 15:27:27 GMT -8
Bolting it would work...as long as you spread out the bolts enough.....I shortened a trailer this way using the 2 ft I took out to join the frame rails....You of course would have to find some channel the correct size to add to your frame
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 25, 2015 16:20:09 GMT -8
The more I start poking around this trailer, the more I think it makes sense to have the C-channel frame, which stops after the rear spring hanger, extended all the way to the rear. It's lasted well enough with just a thin wood floor cantilevered back there, but I did notice some cracks in the original floor tiles right at the spot where the frame stops, so now I'm worried. Anyone here do this? How are the pieces generally joined...back to back? intermediate splice metal? Are there such things as mobile trailer frame welders (I can't tow it in it's current state, and don't want to sink too much more time into it without resolving this issue)? Does anyone think it's a bad idea to simply bolt some C-channel framing onto the existing frame, without welding (either back to back, or smaller channel within the larger "C", with a shim on top). What would a person pay for such a thing (I'll add the 50% California tax onto your experience elsewhere). Yes, I have done this modification on my 1953 Aljoa.
Welding the "C" channel is the only correct way to do it, IMO.
I use a 220V Mig welder to get good penetration into the thick "C" channel.
Your going to pay for time and materials. If you source the metal, cut and prep the weld areas you will save yourself more than half the total cost. This job would be much easier with the flooring out above the weld area.
I would think a fair price for a "mobile" welder to come to your location, set up his machine, and weld the area would be around $75.
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Post by danrhodes on Mar 27, 2015 15:20:28 GMT -8
The more I start poking around this trailer, the more I think it makes sense to have the C-channel frame, which stops after the rear spring hanger, extended all the way to the rear. It's lasted well enough with just a thin wood floor cantilevered back there, but I did notice some cracks in the original floor tiles right at the spot where the frame stops, so now I'm worried. Anyone here do this? How are the pieces generally joined...back to back? intermediate splice metal? Are there such things as mobile trailer frame welders (I can't tow it in it's current state, and don't want to sink too much more time into it without resolving this issue)? Does anyone think it's a bad idea to simply bolt some C-channel framing onto the existing frame, without welding (either back to back, or smaller channel within the larger "C", with a shim on top). What would a person pay for such a thing (I'll add the 50% California tax onto your experience elsewhere). Yes, I have done this modification on my 1953 Aljoa.
Welding the "C" channel is the only correct way to do it, IMO.
I use a 220V Mig welder to get good penetration into the thick "C" channel.
Your going to pay for time and materials. If you source the metal, cut and prep the weld areas you will save yourself more than half the total cost. This job would be much easier with the flooring out above the weld area.
I would think a fair price for a "mobile" welder to come to your location, set up his machine, and weld the area would be around $75.
You're in California John...how could you think I was going to get away for $75 ;-). I'll admit, I just had the guy quote doing the work as is (grinding, welding), but my first quote was $600...almost as much as the whole trailer, lol.
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John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 570
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 27, 2015 15:38:17 GMT -8
Yes, I have done this modification on my 1953 Aljoa.
Welding the "C" channel is the only correct way to do it, IMO.
I use a 220V Mig welder to get good penetration into the thick "C" channel.
Your going to pay for time and materials. If you source the metal, cut and prep the weld areas you will save yourself more than half the total cost. This job would be much easier with the flooring out above the weld area.
I would think a fair price for a "mobile" welder to come to your location, set up his machine, and weld the area would be around $75.
You're in California John...how could you think I was going to get away for $75 ;-). I'll admit, I just had the guy quote doing the work as is (grinding, welding), but my first quote was $600...almost as much as the whole trailer, lol. Dan, You have to get off your butt and do some of the time consuming dirty work yourself, LOL. Chasing after all the materials, grinding and clean up, mock up and clamp all the parts in the correct place you want them welded, you can even tack weld it into place with a small 110V MIG welder before the welder arrives. After all of this is done, any half assed welder could do the entire weld job in 20 minutes maximum. Start out by offering him a case of beer, and $50 "cash" to do a "after hours" at night, or a weekend job. Chances are he's going to bring his company truck over, and he's not even paying for the welding gas, and wire. My guy is a staircase builder and has a portable MIG and runs it using flux core welding wire, and no inert gas, and it took him maybe twenty minutes to weld on my newly fabricated tongue. It's the difference between a true PRO at his trade, and a rookie that is asking you to pay for his apprentice time.
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Post by danrhodes on Mar 27, 2015 15:41:30 GMT -8
You're in California John...how could you think I was going to get away for $75 ;-). I'll admit, I just had the guy quote doing the work as is (grinding, welding), but my first quote was $600...almost as much as the whole trailer, lol. Dan, You have to get off your butt and do some of the time consuming dirty work yourself, LOL. Chasing after all the materials, grinding and clean up, mock up and clamp all the parts in the correct place you want them welded, you can even tack weld it into place with a small 110V MIG welder before the welder arrives. After all of this is done, any half assed welder could do the entire weld job in 20 minutes maximum. Start out by offering him a case of beer, and $50 "cash" to do a "after hours" at night, or a weekend job. Chances are he's going to bring his company truck over, and he's not even paying for the welding gas, and wire. My guy is a staircase builder and has a portable MIG and runs it using flux core welding wire, and no inert gas, and it took him maybe twenty minutes to weld on my newly fabricated tongue. It's the difference between a true PRO at his trade, and a rookie that is asking you to pay for his apprentice time. Well, this guy said I was paying for "100 years of experience", so he probably wasn't an apprentice, but he did say it would take all day...I'll keep trying, will likely do the dirty work myself and am seriously considering just the bolt on approach in the second comment...the trailer lasted 50 years without a frame there, so it doesn't have to hold up all that much.
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Post by vintagebruce on Mar 29, 2015 13:46:24 GMT -8
dan...I worked with welders and fabricators for 12 years in the third world. John Palmer is right, it's a 2 hour job max, if you do the basic prep work and your welder charges over $75 saying you are paying for 100 years experience, simply tell him if he digs up his father, grandfather and great grand father and they were all welders, and they all work on the frame with him, then you will consider paying $600 just for the privlidge of taking a pic of his four generations of welders working together. If he can't produce them it's a flat $75 .
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Post by bigbill on Mar 30, 2015 5:42:57 GMT -8
I would have looked at him and gave him a compliment telling him he didn't look that old. I agree if you know a GoodBudddy who can use his companies equipment, supplies, insurance, fuel, and vehicle to do the job then some beer and $75.00 would be fine. If you are asking a professional company to send someone out to your location supplying all things necessary to do a responsible professional job then $75.00 is ridiculous. Allowing time to travel to your place then wait for a week while you find your keys and move your car out of the driveway then position truck where his equipment will reach the job without backing over the toys and lawn equipment you left in the way, then having to get out jacks and lift the trailer up to get proper access for welding before he can even start the job. Next he usually has to grind edges and position and reclamp things before he can even start to weld. Then he has to get some fish plates off his truck to reenforce your bad design to wind up with the job you desire. Next he has to clean up his mess so that you don't sue him or at least so that your wife doesn't bad mouth him to all your neighbors, then drive back to the plant and restock the truck for the next job. Then you figure he expects his boss to supply health insurance and four weeks paid vacation plus paid holidays this making $600.00 a reasonable price. And we haven't figured in the cost of keeping your welder certified and trained in all the EPA regulations. This may sound funny to you but this is a normal day in the portable welding business. Oh we forgot to figure in the two hours time it took to do the job or the overhead cost of running the business, things like a secretary to answer phone, a building to operate from, telephone and lights plus internet charges, and on and on. We don't expect to work for free why should anyone else the days of a guy working for 35 or 40 dollars an hour while supplying all the things needed are long gone. This is why if you want it done cheap you need to find a friend or a friend of a friend to do it and hope he does a good job. A 10 pound spool of .035 wire is fast approaching $50.00 and a tank of shielding gas has exceeded $100.00 dollars in my area. I do a lot of small welding for friends and even when I say "whatever you think it is worth and they pay me more than they think is reasonable I usually don't cover my cost of materials.
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