mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Mar 5, 2015 14:41:31 GMT -8
Hi all,
I have the original ice box for the '69 Lo-Liner that I want to keep. It seems to have some kind of low density foam insulation surrounded by a cardboard box as the insulation. I'm assuming foam insulation has come a long way in 40+ years. My idea is to rip off the old box and insulation and Liquid Nails high-density Extruded Polystyrene back on the box to whatever thickness I can fit it back in the galley. That could be 3/4 to 1 inch just eyeballing it.
1) Has anyone ever done this?
2) Will it make a hill-of-beans difference in keeping ice longer in the box?
My family says that I should have been an engineer...if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing.
Thanks for your help.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Mar 5, 2015 16:00:59 GMT -8
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Mar 5, 2015 16:55:35 GMT -8
Hi Susie....million dollar question. Did it make a difference compared to the old insulation?
Thanks much!!!
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Mar 5, 2015 20:26:42 GMT -8
I cannot answer that because I did not use it before and haven't used it yet. But it sure looks and smells a lot better. Hopefully, spring will eventually get here and I can try it out. The only problem with the old insulation was the brown paper covering it was nasty and disgusting. Once I took that off the insulation itself didn't look bad but it wasn't very thick, either. I'm glad I did it.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 6, 2015 6:17:21 GMT -8
In answer to your question, if done properly it will help, but the biggest effect on ice lasting is how much and how long you stand there with the door open. Every time you open the door the cold air falls out and warm air rushes in. So know what is in there that you need then open the door get it all and close the door as quick as possible. Also have everything cold before putting it in the icebox helps.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 6, 2015 18:00:47 GMT -8
Ditto, bigbill. We freeze everything that is freeze-able. Meat, the extra carton of milk, butter, any pre-prepared meals. They can help keep the icebox cold for another entire day if it's not 90 degrees outside.
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Mar 6, 2015 18:04:18 GMT -8
Thanks for all of the input. I'm going to try something else, though. The highest R-value foam I can find (and probably on the market) is 2 inch Corning Foamular extruded polystyrene with an R-10. It's very thick and I'm still not sure it would fit back in the galley even after taking off the original foam and box...which is in surprisingly good shape. A 4x8 sheet is about $40.
I'm going to wrap the existing foam and box in an R-11 water heater blanket. It will have the R value of the old foam and the additional R-11...and it's squishy and hopefully easier to fit back in the galley...for about $20.
Still have some plumbing to wrap up so I'm several weeks out from trying it.
Thanks again!!!
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 6, 2015 18:06:28 GMT -8
OOH! Let us know how it works!
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Post by vikx on Mar 6, 2015 21:58:14 GMT -8
I double and triple insulate mine. Use foam to start, foam underneath (sometimes 2") and then gently stuff the remaining cavity with fiberglass or Reflectix, whichever fits the best.
Also, we use two blocks of ice to begin. The "old" blocks were quite large but today's blocks are less than 1/2 the size. We can get 3 days in temperate weather. Adding a bag of ice helps on the last day if blocks aren't available.
We always take a large chest for cold drinks. The icebox stays colder without opening a lot as BigBill and Hamlet say.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on Mar 7, 2015 1:58:16 GMT -8
We start our trips with homage ice blocks. We use the square plastic container that those little dishwasher soap packets come in. Some folks use gallon milk jugs and just keep the water in them as they melt, but we have found that the presence of meltwater makes the ice go a little more quickly.
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goshawks
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Post by goshawks on Mar 7, 2015 6:01:12 GMT -8
BTW for grins and giggles stick a frig thermometer in there and track temps. Then post back, if enough did that we all could get best results.
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Post by bigbill on Mar 7, 2015 6:31:44 GMT -8
The Fiberglass insulation is a device to trap air to stop heat transfer a 3 1/2 inch blanket is rated at R11 when you compress it the insulation value starts to drop until at full compression the value becomes O. If you install the insulation in a standard 2x4 wall with the edges compressed an inch, then take a heat image you will see considerable heat loss at the compressed areas. My suggestion would be to build a box the size of the space the ice box fits into then line it with visqueen then insert the icebox centered in the box and fill voids with expanding foam. Remove from box and install in trailer if to large foam can be shaved till it fits in opening. There are several brands of low expanding foam on the market in aerosol cans at a reasonable cost. Also check the insulation in the door some of them need reinsulating. Also insulate any space around the icebox inside the cabinet to help block air and or heat infiltration.
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mandoman
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Post by mandoman on Mar 7, 2015 9:32:25 GMT -8
Hi all. Thanks for the input. Bill..I'm right there with you on the compression issue, but there is more than enough space once the box is back in the galley for the insulation to fill back out. Also, very good call on the door insulation. I hadn't thought of that.
I'm happy to be the guinea pig with the hot water heater blanket. Worse case is if it doesn't work...I untape it and build a styrofoam box...and I'm out $20.
I'm trying to wrap a few things up on the trailer before I move at the end of March and I probably won't actually use it until bluegrass festival season this summer. It might be a while before I can report back.
Thanks!!!
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Mar 8, 2015 20:32:37 GMT -8
I built "a new" galvanized steel ice box with the original hardware for my Aljoa. I used 2" or more of ridged foam all around it, even thicker foam where the space allowed. The project was a very "good looking" FAILURE!
As BigBill already pointed out, all of the cold air drops out of the bottom, the outside hot air enters at the top, just as soon as the door is opened. The basic early RV ice box design is not equal to a common top opening ice chest. Put food in the ice box, pack it full of ice, limit the times it gets opened, and use a Coleman Xtreme chest for your drinks.
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Post by vikx on Mar 8, 2015 23:13:24 GMT -8
Totally agree on the compression issue.. My icebox spaces are usually about 6 -8 inches bigger than the box itself. The thick foam forms the floor, with a hole for the drain. If there is space, the back wall and side are insulated with foam as well:  Here's the box (foam insulation under the cardboard):  The box itself has foam all around, enough to fit thru the opening. Once anchored, extra insulation can be installed, either foam, fiberglass or Reflectix. Anything but air:  |
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