slider
Junior Member
Posts: 90
Likes: 16
Currently Offline
|
Post by slider on Jan 23, 2015 19:02:36 GMT -8
My plan now is to try and keep original stuff and swap axle under springs, if it is going to cost alot to rebuild my existing and get new components, I'll just get a new straight and put on top of springs which would give me approx 4" since that appears to be what my existing one drops. I had checked last week and a new straight axle w/brakes was going to be less than $300 (axle only, no components).
Either way I know I have to get new shocks, ubolts, brackets, bushings, etc.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Jan 23, 2015 20:48:06 GMT -8
I think I would try it on top of the springs and see if that didn't set it where you want it. You can always move it later.
|
|
slider
Junior Member
Posts: 90
Likes: 16
Currently Offline
|
Post by slider on Jan 30, 2015 16:26:05 GMT -8
Totally did a 180 and went a different path but I am appreciative of all of the input given here.
To redo my axle, brakes, shackles, and springs was going to cost me approx $225-300, not exactly sure because some items were quoted a price/hr and were estimating how long it would take. It was going to cost about $125 just to get the springs and brakes redone. All new was going to be approx $400.
Anyway, I did some internet research (dangerous, I know) and I talked myself into a torsion axle. I got the angle such that my frame will be approx 2" higher than current, and I could raise more if needed with the way I mount it, but I think I'm going to leave it there. The biggest downside I found on these are that they aren't very repairable, but they are supposed to be durable so I'm hoping I don't have to worry about repairable, of course, that's usually when you get in trouble.
I ended up paying about $500 for the new axle and mounting brackets, that's more than I paid for the whole camper but I know it's also just the beginning. At least once I get this out of the way and installed, I can really get to work doing the flooring and framing, which I am much more comfortable with.
I'll let you guys know how they work out.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Jan 30, 2015 19:51:07 GMT -8
Totally did a 180 and went a different path but I am appreciative of all of the input given here. To redo my axle, brakes, shackles, and springs was going to cost me approx $225-300, not exactly sure because some items were quoted a price/hr and were estimating how long it would take. It was going to cost about $125 just to get the springs and brakes redone. All new was going to be approx $400. Anyway, I did some internet research (dangerous, I know) and I talked myself into a torsion axle. I got the angle such that my frame will be approx 2" higher than current, and I could raise more if needed with the way I mount it, but I think I'm going to leave it there. The biggest downside I found on these are that they aren't very repairable, but they are supposed to be durable so I'm hoping I don't have to worry about repairable, of course, that's usually when you get in trouble. I ended up paying about $500 for the new axle and mounting brackets, that's more than I paid for the whole camper but I know it's also just the beginning. At least once I get this out of the way and installed, I can really get to work doing the flooring and framing, which I am much more comfortable with. I'll let you guys know how they work out. Is it a Dexter axle? What is the weight rating?
I built a large (five foot, by ten foot) king sized tear drop for my son, and have been very pleased with the Dexter 1500# axle. This is the trailer we tow into Mexico, for the Baja 1000 race each year. The hardest part was figuring (actually guessing) how much trailing arm angle to order, not knowing how much sag would be in the suspension for the completed trailer.
|
|
slider
Junior Member
Posts: 90
Likes: 16
Currently Offline
|
Post by slider on Jan 30, 2015 20:52:45 GMT -8
It is a Dexter, 3,500#. I actually don't know what my camper will weigh when I'm done but it will be less than that.
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Jan 30, 2015 21:52:55 GMT -8
It is a Dexter, 3,500#. I actually don't know what my camper will weigh when I'm done but it will be less than that. One big disadvantage to a molded rubber torsion spring axle is that "after the axle is custom made", you cannot change the spring rate. With a 3500# rating "normal leaf spring" axle, you get the large 10" brakes and wheel bearings, AND you can easily change the spring rate after your finished with the trailer (loaded with liquids, battery, etc.) to optimize your suspension. Suspension that is TOO STIFF is not good, as well as TOO SOFT is not good. The closer the torsion spring rate is to the actual gross trailer weight the better the trailer will be suspended and tow.
The second thing (just my opinion) is that you want the axle trailing arm position should be at the 8:00 to 9:00 position when the weight of the trailer is loaded on the tires. I would not want them at 7:00 or 10:00 if that makes any sense? You have some ride height adjustment by spacing the axle higher.
Dexter has a very good information website about their products.
I really like the concept of torsion axles, but it's not easy to pick the optimum axle when everything we do is "one off custom". They would be a great choice for a manufacturer, building a 1000 trailers at a time.
The last time I researched using a torsion axle, it was given the name of another axle company (can't remember it now) that built a better torsion axle, because it allowed you to index the trailing arms. Their other advantage was they had replaceable spindles.
|
|
goshawks
Active Member
working on the trotwood when not camping
Posts: 182
Likes: 56
Currently Offline
|
Post by goshawks on Feb 3, 2015 3:12:01 GMT -8
Flexride
|
|
John Palmer
Senior Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,623
Likes: 574
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Feb 3, 2015 9:21:07 GMT -8
I think that may be the one! The axle brand name was given to me by a friend that builds several hundred motorcycle trailers "per month". His company is Kendon Trailer's. They make very high quality, "folding" motorcycle and car trailers. Really a trick product.
|
|
|
Post by bigbill on Feb 5, 2015 14:39:31 GMT -8
You have to make sure that the mounting points on the trailer frame are strong enough to support the twisting force of a torsion axle. also it has to be spaced properly to get proper trailer height and wheel well clearance. Also as John said you have to buy a strong enough axle to support your loaded trailer but if it is to strong it will shake your trailer to pieces as it hit bumps in the pavement.
|
|