slider
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Post by slider on Jan 19, 2015 20:28:01 GMT -8
I am ordering a new axle next week. Existing axle is a 4" drop, planning on going to a straight . Right now planning on doing this first because I need a new one, and also want to raise the height to make plenty of room for tanks etc.
it will raise the camper approx 4". Should I be very concerned with changing it to be more top heavy, etc?
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 20, 2015 9:23:32 GMT -8
Just off the top of my head, it sounds like a train wreck is coming just around the corner!
Without photos, no advice given here will be meaningful to you.
You have lots of options to raise a trailer, without going to a 4" axle change.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 20, 2015 12:58:36 GMT -8
I don't think that 4" will make a huge difference in the way it tows. Before you spend the money for a straight axle answer the following questions. 1. Is the old axle bad? 2. What is the condition of your springs, do they need replaced or re arched? 3. Are your existing brakes in good shape or do they need replaced/rebuilt? 4. What size Wheels and tires are you running? Once you answer these questions you can make an intelligent decision about what you need to do, for example Re-arched springs can raise you 4". If you have wheel well clearance larger wheels and tires will provide more height plus the larger diameter tire will slow your bearing speed down allowing less wear and less heat. I am not saying to not put a straight axle under the trailer, I am just giving you options to consider and all of the things mentioned need to be in top notch shape for safe towing. Check it out and safe towing.
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 20, 2015 21:47:31 GMT -8
Great feedback Bill. I am somewhat knowledgeable about some things but almost totally ignorant on axles and brakes. I know my brakes are disconnected and the whole axle is rusted badly. I figured for $300 or so I would be better off just replacing. I have seen a write up on an axle rebuild but didn't study closely.
To answer some of your questions: Don't know that my axle is particularly bad, just extremely rusted. I don't see any signs or indications of warpage/bent so they are probably fine just might need new springs, shocks and brakes (or rebuild some of those) Same for springs but just assuming they are in need of attention or probably replacing. I am assuming I couldn't re-arch myself but may could find a local shop that could, surprised re-arching could lift that much if the distance of the spring ends remained the same, but again I don' much about springs.
As far as the wheel wells, at this stage that's a clean slate and my layout allows for some extra clearance here and I like the lower bearing speed effect, etc.
I am not sure about a spring shop locally (seems like a dying skill/art), but we do have a shop in Muscle Shoals that has a great reputation for working on drive shafts. He converted my Dakota to a 4.10 rear end with positive traction. I'll give him a call and see if he would do an axle rebuild or could recommend someone.
Thanks again, that is exactly the kind of feedback or presentation of options I needed to evaluate a little better before just replacing. Still may be the way I go, but I hadn't thought much about rebuilding as an option.
Additionally I would like to keep as much original to the camper as I could (except for any wood, replacing all of that)
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Post by bigbill on Jan 21, 2015 6:48:58 GMT -8
You might have to go to a longer spring to gain the arch. The shackles should not be angled in toward axle to the point that they could pop over center and reverse themselves. This is what John was wanting a picture for so that he could give you more exact advice. I have seen springs deformed to where they were arched the wrong way, ones like that could easily pick up four inches. Others aren't deformed at all.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 21, 2015 6:54:18 GMT -8
Check with a truck repair shop to find out where they get springs repaired in your area, as big trucks still use leaf springs that need repair & replacement.
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 21, 2015 15:45:21 GMT -8
Thanks will post pics later but for some reason I can't get my photobucket to let me copy the url...
And not sure why, but John I missed your post completely earlier.
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 21, 2015 16:16:34 GMT -8
Figured out my Photobucket prob and found a pic , but it is not enough of the assemby to be useful, will take and share better pics tomorrow.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 21, 2015 18:43:35 GMT -8
In that picture it looks like the welds that hold the shock bracket are deteriorated badly. Also the u-bolts and shocks look pretty sad. Can't tell much else.
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poncho62
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Post by poncho62 on Jan 22, 2015 4:25:27 GMT -8
What type of trailer is it?......and how low does it sit now?
A lot of these older trailers sit very low and raising them 4 inches would benefit them, in my mind anyways....You also will likely want to replace springs from the looks of that picture
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 22, 2015 15:45:35 GMT -8
A few pics: Ground to bottom of frame is 14", although tires are pretty big.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 22, 2015 21:14:00 GMT -8
The springs have the proper arch. You can tell that by the position of the shackles.The curved pieces hanging down to the rear of the axle are skids in case of a tire failure. I would disassemble the entire spring axle assembly Have all parts sand blasted then you could have new spring locator plates welded to the top of the axle which would allow it to be installed under the springs which would give you the lift that you wish. If you do that you will have to buy longer shocks, plus you should install rubber blocks above the springs to limit the compression travel when you hit a bump. These are used on many different trucks so again a decent truck shop should be able to help you, if not a steel block could be used. I would also suggest all new bolts and bushings. If you decide to purchase a new straight axle make sure it is marked which way is forward or which side is right or left so that you can install it in the proper position. A straight axle will raise the trailer the offset in the stock axle. Also if buying a new axle be sure to purchase the right width and that the mounting plates are the right size and spacing. Many come with the plates loose and have to be welded on but make sure the plates are no wider than the springs so that the u-bolts will fit in the proper position. Hope this is understandable, if not PM me.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 23, 2015 9:17:29 GMT -8
To ad to BigBill's good information, new axles are factory built with a special alignment (camber and toe in) which is why the installed axle direction is critical. New axles of this size will come with electric brake wires "preinstalled" inside the axle. Just make sure you install the axle with the brake wires exiting out the rear of the axle, and you will be correct.
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 23, 2015 10:50:54 GMT -8
Thanks to all for a wealth of information, I love this forum. I do understand the info shared and now I need to check with a few local shops to get cost estimate of keeping my original equipment and working with that.
One more question - based on suggestion of option to put axle under springs (which would probably raise my frame 3.5-4"), does anyone think that raising the center of gravity by that amount would be significant? Now what I won't ever know is will the other interior changes I make, since redoing from ground up, would make even more changes to center of gravity than the axle/spring change.
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Post by bigbill on Jan 23, 2015 11:03:08 GMT -8
slider If you put a straight axle under the springs I would guess you will raise the trailer 6 to 9 inches depending on axle diameter and design of spring perches. Their are two thoughts to keep in mind when increasing height one is towing level, the other is stepping up into the trailer. Again if you change shock mounting position make sure you purchase new with the proper amount of travel both up and down.
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