slider
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Post by slider on Jan 16, 2015 17:16:42 GMT -8
I know there are several threads about cleaning jalousie windows and I have read them. I have tried many things and methods and still have black spots that are difficult to remove.
I don't mind using elbow grease but I want to make sure its going to pay off. I have used coarse steel wool (heavy scrubbing) with the following different materials:
mag wheel cleaner
paint stripper
wd40
kerosene
oxalic acid
lemon juice
muratic acid
Admittedly the one I am working on is 200% better than it was, but after 6 hours of work it still isn't ready to polish. There are faint black spots in parts that won't go away. I've rubbed one spot with steel wool for several minutes and can barely tell the difference, it's like I can get it 90% there, but not all the way. Would love to have any additional tips.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 16, 2015 18:50:38 GMT -8
The black spots "are pits". They are small craters that have corroded "below the metal surface". In order to get a nice polished shine they have to be sanded down until they disappear, then you use progressively finer grit sand paper until your at about 400 to 600 Wet/Dry "before you move on to the polishing stage.
I hate jalousie windows because of all the nooks and crannies. They also have extruded aluminum which is not as smooth originally as the stamped aluminum on the Hehr Standard windows.
When I choose a trailer to rebuild, the condition of the windows is a major factor. Oxidation is to be expected and dealt with during the restoration. However, if the trailer has been near the ocean salt air, or has the Midwest road salt corrosion pits on the window frames, "I Pass". It just takes too much time, I'm getting too old, and I would rather pay a premium for a nicer condition trailer to invest my time. This is exactly why I purchased my 1948 Spartan, that spent it's life in the 120 degree desert heat of Gila Bend, Arizona.
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 16, 2015 19:27:09 GMT -8
Thanks John. I believe your right and was hoping something would clean the pits without sanding (only because I've worried about scratches). I'm not going for mirror finish, just clean. I guess the coarse steel wool is not enough to "sand" it because believe me I've done some agressive and lengthy scrubbing.
I'll get the different grits of paper tomorrow and get back on it.
Btw, my jalousies are diff than most, there is a frame completely around the panes and at least I don't have to fool with the rubber discs. Took a while to disassemble because of rusty screws but are going to be easy to replace panes with new seals and gaskets.
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 17, 2015 18:17:42 GMT -8
Sanding did it, lots of work but results are good. I had just used steel wool prior to sanding but the paper worked great. I still only got the frames that go around the panes done and not the main frame yet (about 3 hours of work today), but at least it is working.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 17, 2015 20:40:17 GMT -8
Sanding did it, lots of work but results are good. I had just used steel wool prior to sanding but the paper worked great. I still only got the frames that go around the panes done and not the main frame yet (about 3 hours of work today), but at least it is working. LOL......if it was easy......everyone would be doing it! |
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 17, 2015 21:38:51 GMT -8
Yes indeed - I'm starting to think my camper will look great with just 1 shiny window and 8 pitted/oxidized windows.....
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slider
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Post by slider on Jan 19, 2015 19:12:36 GMT -8
UPDATE: Success after a few more trials.
Once I got comfortable sanding and realized I could eventually work out the scratching, I got a little more adventurous. First I put a sanding pad on my oscillating multi tool thing. That actually worked okay and I should have stopped there but I had to try my Rotozip - that made some grooves in the metal as I couldn't keep the back and forth motion and pressure consistent. I was able to get them out with some aggressive sanding.
Anyway, not saying this is for everyone but here is what is finally working very well for me. I start with the oscillating tool with a fine grit and that knocks down the pits and removes the dark spots. It goes pretty quickly (although still tedious but not as much as hand sanding). It leaves horrible looking scratches but they sand out without too much work. Here's the best discovery for me so far: I started with regular sanding paper and eventually tried some foam sanding blocks and they are much easier to use for me. I bought some 80, 120 and 180. The 80 worked so well I don't know if iI need to keep going on finer blocks, but I will to see how it goes.
Also what has worked best for me is to put the sanding block in the vise and draw the piece back and forth over the block (like a saw), hurts my hands less. The foam blocks have worked so well, next weekend I will try a piece and just start with the foam sanding blocks instead of the oscillator. I'll let you guys know afterwards.
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