HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Dec 30, 2014 14:32:39 GMT -8
Hello All,
I am tearing down, cleaning, and rebuilding some Hehr windows from the 1950's for my trailer. The work is being done in my heated garage, but the trailer is in my unheated pole barn. Highs right now are in the 20's and lows in the teens.
Would I be OK to install the windows in the cold or should I wait for warmer weather? The windows are in the heated garage and the butyl tape is indoors (room temperature).
Thanks for any feedback.
Greg |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 30, 2014 14:59:01 GMT -8
Hi Greg... Put the putty tape on the window in the heated area and then take the window out to the barn and install it. When it warms up, re-torque the screws a bit. Then trim the putty with a razor knife. You could put putty tape on all the windows at once in the heated area but only take one window out at a time. Then come in and warm up and take another one out.
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Post by vikx on Dec 30, 2014 22:29:06 GMT -8
I agree with Mobil, but you mentioned "Hehr windows from the 50s". Many of this type use a backframe rubber gasket rather than putty tape. I buy my gasket from Vintage Trailer Supply. Butyl tape works as an extra seal under the gasket, 1/2 x 1/16.
Any pix of your windows?
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Dec 31, 2014 6:18:06 GMT -8
Thanks for the tips.
They are more of the same windows from one of my previous threads, there are a couple pictures there:
Hehr Windows Hard To Close
They do have a rubber gasket that I have replaced with new from Vintage Trailer. I am also using some butyl tape. I pretty much followed the how-to videos on Mobiltec's website. Those were very helpful.
By the way, I never did find anything that was keeping those windows from closing without bowing the middle bar.
Thanks. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 31, 2014 8:44:30 GMT -8
I'm going to have to agree that possibly something is hanging up. Wish I were there to see and feel it for myself dang it. Is it possible for you to do a short video of closing it from the inside? May help us see what is going on. It shouldn't bend that bar in the middle. It needs to be tight. But not that tight.
One thing I have seen in the past. I've seen pushouts that have been modified. They drilled another hole a little higher up for the push bar to hinge in, in order I guess to make the windows close tighter. But then it bent that bar and made the windows very hard to close. Moving the bar back to the other hole which was only a quarter inch away loosened them back up to normal closing pressure. Do you have an extra hole in that bar for the push bar to go to? If not that's also another way to loosen them if no other way is found.
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Dec 31, 2014 9:04:42 GMT -8
I'll see if I can make a video and I will check for another hole.
On another note, just got back from the glass shop (three of the windows have broken glass) and the guy there recommended a bead of silicone in addition to the gasket where the glass sits in the frame. I did not do this on the first two windows I rebuilt. There was some old sealant of some type on the windows I tore down, but I just assumed that was a repair attempt from years past. Is this something I should consider?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 31, 2014 11:59:56 GMT -8
I'll see if I can make a video and I will check for another hole. On another note, just got back from the glass shop (three of the windows have broken glass) and the guy there recommended a bead of silicone in addition to the gasket where the glass sits in the frame. I did not do this on the first two windows I rebuilt. There was some old sealant of some type on the windows I tore down, but I just assumed that was a repair attempt from years past. Is this something I should consider? NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!! All you need is glass sealer. This is a silicone free forum... We do not use silicone for any exterior work or sealing. We DO use "gutter sealant" for the top of Jrail but that's a different story and you can look that up here on the forum.... All you need is the rubber glass seal from VTS... |
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Dec 31, 2014 12:43:50 GMT -8
OK, no problem on the glass seal from VTS only, that was my original plan anyway.
As for the hard to close window, I took a closer look and there is not another hole near where the latch bar attaches. I did, however, discover that the center bar attaches differently to the window frame on another window which closes OK.
This is from the hard to close window:
This is from a window that seems to close better:
Notice the difference in the distance from the edge of the center bar to the edge of the frame. The bar on the one I am having trouble with is about an 1/8" outboard compared to the other window. This is the bottom of the frame, the tops are the same.
Weird thing is that the ones that works well appears to the be the exception. The other windows I have look like the one that is giving me trouble. I only have two installed in the trailer, so I do not have a lot to compare. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Dec 31, 2014 16:28:19 GMT -8
Well there is the problem. Must have been like that from the factory. That may not be the problem either however. Sometimes, depending on the window, the bar can be put in upside down and cause problems as well. Not the push bar but the one it hinges to, that you just showed being too far out on the window frame. I would just make the adjustment and drill new holes and move the bottom of that bar out. Make sure you didn't put ANYTHING in upside down. That can make all the difference in the world. Even putting the little piece that the push bar rests on, that inverted V shape thing that makes pressure against the push bar could be in upside down. Check everything before modifying.
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 1, 2015 18:10:43 GMT -8
Mobiltec - Thanks for the information. I looked at the windows some more today and I am certain that I put it back together the way it was. The windows could have been difficult to operate before I tore it apart, I really did not pay attention.
I have not made any adjustments yet, but I think I am just going to remove a little bit of material on the push bar where it contacts the rest piece when closed. It would not take much at all and I think this will be a lot easier than trying to drill new holes in the frame right next to the existing holes. Plus, if I mess up the push bar I should be able to get a replacement from VTS.
Not sure when I am going to do this because it is just too cold to work comfortably out there right now and I want to think it through. I am going to keep working the other windows where I have heat for the time being. I'll post how I end up adjusting the windows.
Thanks again.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 1, 2015 18:13:53 GMT -8
Yep that is another thing I was going to suggest but only after everything else failed to show up a problem. Take a bit of material off the push bar where it rests on that V thingy. LOL for lack of another term. Just a little at a time and then test it. That will prolly take care of it.
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 27, 2015 17:11:25 GMT -8
Well I have not installed anymore windows in the trailer yet, but I have two ready to go in my basement. I thought I would share the progress.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 27, 2015 18:28:35 GMT -8
Well I have not installed anymore windows in the trailer yet, but I have two ready to go in my basement. I thought I would share the progress.
Just beautiful...  |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 27, 2015 20:04:03 GMT -8
Well I have not installed anymore windows in the trailer yet, but I have two ready to go in my basement. I thought I would share the progress.
Have you considered doing some metal straightening on the mounting screw holes that were previously over tightened?
It's best to do the straightening, before the polish step is done.
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HeavyD
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Post by HeavyD on Jan 28, 2015 17:18:37 GMT -8
John,
I guess I did not think anything of that. In my opinion, it is not too bad. I have put two windows into the trailer so far and did not attempt to straighten the metal. Based on what the windows looked like before I started, the little dimples from the screws were the least of my worries.
Thanks,
Greg
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