SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Oct 2, 2014 18:52:18 GMT -8
Susie, Don't know how far away you are from Austin, but befor ou go to Houston check out this place; www.finelumber.com/product_catalog.phpThey have 1/8 birch both "bendng" and cabinet grade. Used to be my go to store before I moved up north. I'm far from both right now but I have a dear friend in Houston and family in San Antonio. I was out there summer of '13, just didn't know I needed birch. I would love a road trip to Austin, too. But I can probably get my friend in Houston to meet me in New Orleans with some. That's a common ground for the two of us. |
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Oct 3, 2014 21:02:48 GMT -8
Bender board is a laminated plywood made of flexible "plastic" between inner and outer layers of wood veneer. Mostly used in custom furniture making, it comes in 4X8 sheets and 8X4 sheets, meaning you can make a round tower 8' tall or one 4' tall. It's usually used as a substrate and so covered with a "face veneer of very thin, quality grade wood... lotsa work but great for high end curved furniture. For us, it's best use would be for a painted surface as the inner and outer layers are usually a long grained, cheaper grade wood, but in this case, it's birch. I've used it in boat building where I then covered it with west system epoxy, and wasn't concerned with it's appearance as much as it's bendability.
I wish I had access to some this past week when I made the curved 'bathroom' wall for Scotty. I kerf bent some crappy big box 3 ply stuff which cracked after 2 days of slowly trying to caress around the framework that took another day to make. Scotty originally used layers of heavy cardboard to make the wall, but I couldn't find it either.
Dang, dang, dang, or something sounding similar.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Oct 4, 2014 5:05:55 GMT -8
Bender board is a laminated plywood made of flexible "plastic" between inner and outer layers of wood veneer. Mostly used in custom furniture making, it comes in 4X8 sheets and 8X4 sheets, meaning you can make a round tower 8' tall or one 4' tall. It's usually used as a substrate and so covered with a "face veneer of very thin, quality grade wood... lotsa work but great for high end curved furniture. For us, it's best use would be for a painted surface as the inner and outer layers are usually a long grained, cheaper grade wood, but in this case, it's birch. I've used it in boat building where I then covered it with west system epoxy, and wasn't concerned with it's appearance as much as it's bendability. I wish I had access to some this past week when I made the curved 'bathroom' wall for Scotty. I kerf bent some crappy big box 3 ply stuff which cracked after 2 days of slowly trying to caress around the framework that took another day to make. Scotty originally used layers of heavy cardboard to make the wall, but I couldn't find it either. Dang, dang, dang, or something sounding similar. So cabinet grade is what people in vintage land use? Domestic, as what was recommended above, if possible to avoid problems? |
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dawn
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Post by dawn on Oct 4, 2014 21:17:29 GMT -8
We haven't found it yet either but plan on checking with our cabinet guy in KC. But I'm really not sure if even that will work because it's quite a sharp curve at the top curve in the back. I'm sure it was probably that weird cardboard stuff which is still in the front curve, hidden behind the cabinets. The stuff in back was already torn out when we got it. This is currently one of our biggest issues. Bendy board sounds like what we really need though and I'm not at all sure it's something we can get in the Midwest.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Oct 5, 2014 5:02:32 GMT -8
We haven't found it yet either but plan on checking with our cabinet guy in KC. But I'm really not sure if even that will work because it's quite a sharp curve at the top curve in the back. I'm sure it was probably that weird cardboard stuff which is still in the front curve, hidden behind the cabinets. The stuff in back was already torn out when we got it. This is currently one of our biggest issues. Bendy board sounds like what we really need though and I'm not at all sure it's something we can get in the Midwest. I'm sure 1/8 can bend quite a lot. 1/4 is a tougher proposition but people make it work with small slits in the board to increase bend-ability. Watch the Shasta or Deville series at cannedhamtrailers.com to see what it's like to work with 1/8th. The catch is finding it. West of TX, people have names of lumberyards that carry it. East of the Mississippi, it's nearly impossible. Old timers in the lumber businesses remember it, but they don't carry it now. People on this forum seem confused as to why we can't just drive down to a hardwood lumberyard and get it anytime we want it. Tale of Two Cities, I guess. John P. made a good suggestion when he mentioned cabinet makers. And to ask for domestic, if they have it. Let me know if you find it. |
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dawn
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Post by dawn on Oct 5, 2014 7:38:28 GMT -8
Ok! We know several custom cabinet and specialty woodworking guys but just haven't had a chance to check with them due to working a crazy schedule in Illinois the last 6 months. If not I'm going to kerf a 1/4 piece. Rob has his doubts about successfully being able to negotiate that steep corner curve but I told him "if SusieQ can do it, I can do it!" He said "Who is SusieQ?" Ha!
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Oct 5, 2014 8:43:03 GMT -8
You can do it. Check with wiartonwillie, he did is successfully, too after trying the strap method. |
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 1, 2015 21:40:10 GMT -8
If the trailer is being rebuilt "correctly" from the outside, 1/4" paneling will bend with a just little help from a 2 by 4 placed across the trailer and some ratchet straps on the outside until it's all securely attached.
John, Can you go into a little more detail as to how you anchored the straps to bend the paneling? Thanks, Rod |
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jan 1, 2015 22:31:58 GMT -8
If the trailer is being rebuilt "correctly" from the outside, 1/4" paneling will bend with a just little help from a 2 by 4 placed across the trailer and some ratchet straps on the outside until it's all securely attached.
John, Can you go into a little more detail as to how you anchored the straps to bend the paneling? Thanks, Rod My definition "of correctly" means the trailer is being restored with the entire roof and ceiling off.
The first thing to install is the new welting on the wall edges.
The first four foot panel will get you to about the rear window area, do not cut out the panel window opening until you have the ceiling rafters installed, anchor the second panel to the wall edges, place a 2x4 across the top edge of the second panel, and a 2x4 through the window openings, use motorcycle tie down straps (they are Q/R, have large hooks, easy to work one handed/ are cheap) and pull the top of the second panel down, attach the edges as you go. Work from the bottom up, alternate every few inches from side to side. It's best to space your seams to never make a panel seam in the middle of the tightest bend radius. I like to use additional roof rafters, use about 8" to 10" on center. Make sure you have a rafter covering the area where ever you have paneling seams. Leave the panels three or four inches wide until they are fully attached in place, then cut to size with a Multi Tool.
I work by myself, and this method allows me a "one man" installation of 1/4" paneling on canned hams, and tear drops. You have much more leverage with the straps pulling down, which is why this method will only work with the roof off. I have also tried skinning the outside of the roof (like a exterior ceiling) with Luan after the framing was insulated. Then just skin over with aluminum for a very stiff roof structure.
The MOST IMPORTANT THING...........make sure the roof/front/rear DO NOT HAVE ANY CROWN or you will have "pucker problems" when you install the aluminum roof skin. You can only bend the skin in one plane, not compound bends. Note, it's better to build the roof flat, then lift the skin in the vent hole and use some 1/2" to 3/4" spacers to raise the skin for good water drainage.
The SECOND MOST IMPORTANT THING...........measure often, make sure you have the walls square to the floor, and the width of the roof does not change as your installing the roof/ceiling. It's much better "too narrow", NOT "too wide".
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Jan 2, 2015 5:07:57 GMT -8
What we need here is one of you (old retired guys) to put your canned ham and an enclosed utility trailer on your flatbed. You load it up with as many sheets of 1/8" birch as will fit and start a never ending road trip, distributing to all of us around the country. Wish my wife would let ME do it!
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 2, 2015 5:27:41 GMT -8
Excellent, John! Your descriptive response just went into my newly started restoration tips folder on my computer.
Thank you.
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patty
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Post by patty on Jan 23, 2015 12:50:50 GMT -8
Would birch veneer do the trick if you are covering older curved area? Some of our lumberyards in WI sell lots of veneers.
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Post by vikx on Jan 23, 2015 22:38:29 GMT -8
Hi Patty,
I haven't had the best luck with veneer as a few of us know. Do your homework and ask lots of questions at the lumberyard before making a decision. I've seen beautiful veneer, but mine is not...
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elewayne
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Post by elewayne on Feb 13, 2015 13:27:12 GMT -8
You guys have me worried now. I'm just about to start building out my interior. I'm a cabinet maker in Houston and I'v never had any trouble finding 1/8" plywood at the hardwood dealers here. Hardwood dealers are not really "lumber yards" though, per say.They don't sell construction products, exactly.
I've usually ordered them as door skins. One might check for a door manufacturer in the area. I will say that I couldn't find any in Denver while I was living there in 2012. but then even the 1/4 " would curl up like a potato chip in the dry weather there.So keeping 1/8" on inventory was a problem.
Hummm good lick.
Getting veneers layed properly would be a pretty good task for a beginner. not something I would try even knowing pretty much what I'm doing. normally one has veneers pressed in a big flat press.
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Post by vikx on Feb 13, 2015 22:43:04 GMT -8
Yeah, I learned about veneers the hard way...
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