poncho62
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Post by poncho62 on Sept 14, 2014 3:16:01 GMT -8
If you boondock at all or want lighting while stopped on the road somewhere, I would go with 12 volt lights.
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 14, 2014 7:33:14 GMT -8
Hi All, In regards to the power pack idea and someone said it had to run with LED's. Personally, I don't like the white light of LED's. They seem too brash and cold for my taste. I like the yellowish warmer light afforded by the wired 12 volt ceiling lights. For me, if my trailer didn't have the 12 volt incandescent bulbs wired in, I would use the battery operated AA LED type in a pinch. Sorry, I don't have a stuck finding a hotel story and not sleeping there story to contribute to this thread.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Sept 14, 2014 13:25:10 GMT -8
I get that resale value would be better with the 12v. system. I just don't get what you use it for. Unless you invest in some pretty big batteries, what can it do? The vent fan is a cool idea, but I'm not coming up with anything else. So, to confess, the real reason I think the portable power pack would be a great idea is that I forgot to turn the key off on my riding mower. It's dead and I don't want to push it. Now, if only I had a power pack with jumpstart, 12v.,110 volt, mini air compressor USB port..........the possibilities seem endless But seriously, what should a twelve volt system do? Don't you need a bunch of "stuff"? Inverters, converters, circuit breakers, batteries, solar panels, wind turbines. Well the last two might be stretching, but ....... Mine powered two light fixtures that only worked when she was hitched. (no battery system) I'm not going to "try and sell" 12V systems to anyone. Everybody should design their own system based on how they will be using their trailer's.
Here's what I'm using on a small 17' trailer that is used mostly in "well equipped" campgrounds. Although we seldom dry camp, these systems are sometimes used when traveling "on the road" without hook ups. 110V System items are, Battery Maintainer Micro Wave Oven Outside mounted Receptacle for decorative lights Seven "inside" Receptacles Kitchen counter light Table light Flat Screen TV Sirus Satellite Radio Two Night Lights Two bed reading lights "Tankless" Water Heater
The 12V system items are, Two accessory charging outlets (for Grand Kid games, computer, cell phone charging, etc) "on demand" Water Pump Table light Three Storage Compartment lights Porch light Step light Bed area Fan Fantastic vent Fan Two Kitchen counter LED Lights Three Dome Lights
The "on demand" water pump works nice for flushing the toilet when not connected to city water pressure.
All of the 12V system runs off of the vehicle seven way charge plug, a Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery, and the $38.00 Battery Maintainer, No Solar, No Inverters, No Converters.
Every item is wired with a different color wire, and has a separate white ground wire going to each accessory to complete the electrical circuits.
You can design your systems with more or less features, and to "over ride" most any system. It's all based on your desired requirements.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Sept 24, 2014 11:32:36 GMT -8
I've got a bigger camper than most on here, it's a '76 Shasta 2250. It came with a water pump, a hot air furnace, a range hood with fan and light, and 6 12v light fixtures, 4 of which are two-bulb fixtures. I've added a solar panel, charge controller, inverter, and two 6v golf cart batteries and haven't used my generator or plugged in for over a year...
Without 12v, how will you survive the collapse of society from the zombie apocalypse?
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cheri
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Post by cheri on Sept 24, 2014 16:07:43 GMT -8
Without 12v, how will you survive the collapse of society from the zombie apocalypse? Ha,Now that's funny. Hiding from Zombies in a tin can. I can just imagine the movie trailer.... a hoard of Zombies approaches a vintage trailer with pry bars and tin snips. No, wait, a cordless screwdriver.
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Post by bigbill on Sept 24, 2014 19:19:58 GMT -8
Without 12v, how will you survive the collapse of society from the zombie apocalypse? Ha,Now that's funny. Hiding from Zombies in a tin can. I can just imagine the movie trailer.... a hoard of Zombies approaches a vintage trailer with pry bars and tin snips. No, wait, a cordless screwdriver. Oh my God I forgot about a zombie invasion that included Zombies with a cordless screwdrivers. Now i am going to have to drill the centers out of all the screws on my trailer to keep zombies out.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 6, 2014 11:37:17 GMT -8
Just use the security screws they sell at Home Depot. It's illegal to sell those driver bits to zombies. In Maine, at least.
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MarthaS
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1965 Friendship Vacationaire
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Post by MarthaS on Apr 12, 2015 16:10:45 GMT -8
I get that resale value would be better with the 12v. system. I just don't get what you use it for. Unless you invest in some pretty big batteries, what can it do? The vent fan is a cool idea, but I'm not coming up with anything else. So, to confess, the real reason I think the portable power pack would be a great idea is that I forgot to turn the key off on my riding mower. It's dead and I don't want to push it. Now, if only I had a power pack with jumpstart, 12v.,110 volt, mini air compressor USB port..........the possibilities seem endless But seriously, what should a twelve volt system do? Don't you need a bunch of "stuff"? Inverters, converters, circuit breakers, batteries, solar panels, wind turbines. Well the last two might be stretching, but ....... Mine powered two light fixtures that only worked when she was hitched. (no battery system) I'm not going to "try and sell" 12V systems to anyone. Everybody should design their own system based on how they will be using their trailer's.
Here's what I'm using on a small 17' trailer that is used mostly in "well equipped" campgrounds. Although we seldom dry camp, these systems are sometimes used when traveling "on the road" without hook ups. 110V System items are, Battery Maintainer Micro Wave Oven Outside mounted Receptacle for decorative lights Seven "inside" Receptacles Kitchen counter light Table light Flat Screen TV Sirus Satellite Radio Two Night Lights Two bed reading lights "Tankless" Water Heater
The 12V system items are, Two accessory charging outlets (for Grand Kid games, computer, cell phone charging, etc) "on demand" Water Pump Table light Three Storage Compartment lights Porch light Step light Bed area Fan Fantastic vent Fan Two Kitchen counter LED Lights Three Dome Lights
The "on demand" water pump works nice for flushing the toilet when not connected to city water pressure.
All of the 12V system runs off of the vehicle seven way charge plug, a Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery, and the $38.00 Battery Maintainer, No Solar, No Inverters, No Converters.
Every item is wired with a different color wire, and has a separate white ground wire going to each accessory to complete the electrical circuits.
You can design your systems with more or less features, and to "over ride" most any system. It's all based on your desired requirements.
I just wanted to bump this list up. We are at the electrical wiring phase and we are planning on 110 & 12V. I was searching the threads for any mention of others who have planned on installing a USB outlet and came across this list from John Palmer. It is awesome and I thought maybe others could benefit from it. It's experience like John's and other contributors that has helped us along the way. TY
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 12, 2015 18:12:17 GMT -8
You're right, most vintage trailers had only one ceiling light if any. Often, the ceiling light only operated thru the vehicle parking lights. I add a complete new 12 volt system to every trailer; ceiling lights, under the cabinets, battery and maintainer, etc. Whats a maintainer? I am planning on having some 110 lights that run off the plug/shore power. Then we will have two deep cell batteries that charge from the vehicle. Plus a solar trickle charger, for if we boondock for more than one night. These will run a 12 volt low-draw, nova-kool fridge, and some 12 volt interior trailer lights. It is my understanding that if I just do this I do not need an inverter. I am still a bit lost on this though.. does the inverter make it so you can run the 110 lights off of the 12 volt system? I can see this being a plus, if I can use LED pigtail lights in them. But still not clear on the concept...
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Apr 12, 2015 19:34:51 GMT -8
You're right, most vintage trailers had only one ceiling light if any. Often, the ceiling light only operated thru the vehicle parking lights. I add a complete new 12 volt system to every trailer; ceiling lights, under the cabinets, battery and maintainer, etc. Whats a maintainer? I am planning on having some 110 lights that run off the plug/shore power. Then we will have two deep cell batteries that charge from the vehicle. Plus a solar trickle charger, for if we boondock for more than one night. These will run a 12 volt low-draw, nova-kool fridge, and some 12 volt interior trailer lights. It is my understanding that if I just do this I do not need an inverter. I am still a bit lost on this though.. does the inverter make it so you can run the 110 lights off of the 12 volt system? I can see this being a plus, if I can use LED pigtail lights in them. But still not clear on the concept... Please do not confuse yourself, and others by asking about inverters. A battery MAINTAINER is nothing like an inverter, it's more like a SMART CHARGER, or some times they are called Float Chargers. You will find lots of information if you Google the brand name Battery Tender. The size needed is no larger than their small Battery Tender JR. model or about 2.5MA in output. This model is widely sold by many companies for about $65., you can find the same 2.5MA size in generic battery maintainers at any good electronics store for under $40.00. The cool thing is that unlike a normal battery charger that if you leave it turned on, it will cook your battery or batteries, these have the ability to sense the battery charge level and turn on and off as needed automatically. Just hard wire it to your trailer battery system, plug it into a 110v receptacle and forget it. I install a 110V receptacle right next to my battery hold down and box to power the Maintainer. Do not purchase the HF small .25MA battery maintainers for $5., which put out only 1/10 the current needed, they are meant to keep batteries from going dead when unused over long periods, not to recharge to the levels that we are talking about. A 12v battery normally needs 14.3 volts to be considered "fully charged". A battery with 11 volts is considered dead. Lead batteries do not like to see big swings in the discharge/charge levels. The closer you can keep them to the 14.3 volt number 24/7, 365 days a year, the longer they will last. The lead plates will sulfate when discharged, and this causes the battery to not accept a recharge, and you have to replace them at $100/battery.
A simple $40 battery maintainer, plugged into your 110V system is the best money you can spend.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 12, 2015 20:30:05 GMT -8
So then basically whenever the trailer is plugged in, i tops up the charge on my batteries?
So my big trailer has an inverter... But most small trailers don't? I know they take up space, don't know if really needed.. I want to sort this out. I guess I will do a search for threads on inverters.
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Post by vikx on Apr 12, 2015 20:55:38 GMT -8
Your big trailer probably has a CONverter. When plugged in, the converter provides 12 volt power and charges the battery. Most lights in newer trailers are 12 volt, so they work off the converter when plugged in and run off the battery(s) when not.
INverters invert DC voltage into 110. The trouble with them in our smaller trailers is that they like a lot of battery power, a battery "bank" if you will. I don't think you would need a big inverter and a converter is not very useful if you have mostly 110 lights.
My trailers have shore power for the outlets and 110 lights. I usually have 2 or 3 12 volt lights, which do fine on the battery. (when on shore power the maintainer keeps it topped off as John explained) A solar charger will help with that when in the boonies.
Just a note on the Nova Kool: they are designed to cool about 35-40 degrees below ambient temperatures, so a jug of ice might help it stay cool. For instance, at 95 degrees, it would be about 55 inside the fridge...
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 13, 2015 16:56:01 GMT -8
I get that resale value would be better with the 12v. system. I just don't get what you use it for. Unless you invest in some pretty big batteries, what can it do? The vent fan is a cool idea, but I'm not coming up with anything else. So, to confess, the real reason I think the portable power pack would be a great idea is that I forgot to turn the key off on my riding mower. It's dead and I don't want to push it. Now, if only I had a power pack with jumpstart, 12v.,110 volt, mini air compressor USB port..........the possibilities seem endless But seriously, what should a twelve volt system do? Don't you need a bunch of "stuff"? Inverters, converters, circuit breakers, batteries, solar panels, wind turbines. Well the last two might be stretching, but ....... Mine powered two light fixtures that only worked when she was hitched. (no battery system) I'm not going to "try and sell" 12V systems to anyone. Everybody should design their own system based on how they will be using their trailer's.
Here's what I'm using on a small 17' trailer that is used mostly in "well equipped" campgrounds. Although we seldom dry camp, these systems are sometimes used when traveling "on the road" without hook ups. 110V System items are, Battery Maintainer Micro Wave Oven Outside mounted Receptacle for decorative lights Seven "inside" Receptacles Kitchen counter light Table light Flat Screen TV Sirus Satellite Radio Two Night Lights Two bed reading lights "Tankless" Water Heater
The 12V system items are, Two accessory charging outlets (for Grand Kid games, computer, cell phone charging, etc) "on demand" Water Pump Table light Three Storage Compartment lights Porch light Step light Bed area Fan Fantastic vent Fan Two Kitchen counter LED Lights Three Dome Lights
The "on demand" water pump works nice for flushing the toilet when not connected to city water pressure.
All of the 12V system runs off of the vehicle seven way charge plug, a Deep Cycle Lead Acid battery, and the $38.00 Battery Maintainer, No Solar, No Inverters, No Converters.
Every item is wired with a different color wire, and has a separate white ground wire going to each accessory to complete the electrical circuits.
You can design your systems with more or less features, and to "over ride" most any system. It's all based on your desired requirements.
Thank you for this post! This is what I was looking for.. a clear explanation of a 12 volt system / and a 110 system that does not use an inverter!!
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 13, 2015 16:58:33 GMT -8
Your big trailer probably has a CONverter. When plugged in, the converter provides 12 volt power and charges the battery. Most lights in newer trailers are 12 volt, so they work off the converter when plugged in and run off the battery(s) when not. INverters invert DC voltage into 110. The trouble with them in our smaller trailers is that they like a lot of battery power, a battery "bank" if you will. I don't think you would need a big inverter and a converter is not very useful if you have mostly 110 lights. My trailers have shore power for the outlets and 110 lights. I usually have 2 or 3 12 volt lights, which do fine on the battery. (when on shore power the maintainer keeps it topped off as John explained) A solar charger will help with that when in the boonies. Just a note on the Nova Kool: they are designed to cool about 35-40 degrees below ambient temperatures, so a jug of ice might help it stay cool. For instance, at 95 degrees, it would be about 55 inside the fridge... This is interesting. I had not heard that. My parents use one on their boat all summer, and have not commented on the level of cooling. (That might be because they spent so much on it and don't want to lose face!) However, I will ask them about that, and I thought that they had ones with freezers too.. Ill have to look into this more. Thanks
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Post by vikx on Apr 13, 2015 21:06:25 GMT -8
Please let us all know about the Nova Kool! I've only researched the ones available locally and certainly not for marine applications. It's possible they sell quite a nice ($$$) unit for boats that actually cools more than the average units.
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