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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 29, 2015 7:26:15 GMT -8
Yeah, I have a lot of crap under there. It washes down the hill and under my trailer.
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Jul 29, 2015 7:47:53 GMT -8
Here is a photo of my compact. The leaf springs are under the axle. Do you think they came from the factory under or over the axle? Are they any cons to moving them above to gain a little height? Looks like you might get an extra 3 inches or so. shasta camper axle by Todd Gauger, on Flickr
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jul 29, 2015 10:16:43 GMT -8
I've worked on cars for more years than I care to admit, but we've only owned 2 vintage campers. As a rule, if the spring is coming apart, the arch is flat without road bounce or people in it, or the shackle connection is coming apart or worn, replace it. Also, if you have a couple of people get in the camper and the wheel sinks anywhere near the wheel well, I would replace the springs. I was told Shasta did some oddball things. Some springs top, some bottom. Some ubolds had lock washers, some didn't. Our Compact had one side with shorter ubolts so Shasta didn't use lock washers. Even then they could only tighten the bolts down as you see below. If you see the ubolts are not tightened down to a point passed the top of the nut, replace them ASAP. They also need a lock washer. Here is the sticky issue. Shasta Compact had a 1 1/2" square axle. I couldn't find ubolts to fit it anywhere until I came across this machine shop online. www.autoandtrucksprings.com/catalog/U_Bolt_Kits-2-1.html Very nice people. They will custom make ubolts for about $18 a set (2) with free shipping. You can't beat that price with a stick! Mine were 9/16" bolts. Larger than is needed for an 1100 pound camper, but that's what fit the original plate. They also make all sizes of springs at a fair price.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jul 29, 2015 10:29:03 GMT -8
Here is a photo of my compact. The leaf springs are under the axle. Do you think they came from the factory under or over the axle? Are they any cons to moving them above to gain a little height? Looks like you might get an extra 3 inches or so. What year was your Shasta? I like the springs under, myself. It makes sense to me for the weight to rest on the spring. I've very "old school". But if they came from the factory above, leave them as you found them. I think if a spring has settled to the point where it's running too low, replace it. Raising the camper 3" changes the center of gravity. I wouldn't do it. Lifts or flips seem like risky business. If a spring fails on the highway you have big trouble. (Okay, okay, I'm a coward on some issues.)
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pennyg
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Post by pennyg on Jul 29, 2015 11:08:45 GMT -8
WE just took are 1962 compact to a trailer repair place today to have the axles, leaf springs etc. checked out to make sure everything was ok.Good news everything looked good besides some surface rust and cobwebs. They also hooked the brakes back up and they are now functional!! So I guess I will leave it as is for now. It tow fine now so I think I'll camp in it awhile and see it the height is a problem and then think about some new leaf springs.. Thanks for all the info
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Aug 28, 2015 6:06:39 GMT -8
So here is the answer to my original question. My springs have been replaced and I will share with you what I learned. There is good advice in this thread but, I did not, probably could not, want to remove my springs myself, which requires dropping the axle. The nearest spring shop is not near to me at all so removing them to be rebuilt or taking the trailer to a "spring shop" was not an alternative for me. Automotive shops, trailer sells and repair shops (no rv shops, here, only horse trailers)and in my case a body shop (not your usual go to for springs) are able to replace springs. Biggest factor is having someone you trust who will NOt destroy your trailer in the process. My springs are 27" long, double eyelet, four leaf. Measure yours, because Shasta did vary a few things occasionally. They are measured from center to center of eyelet. Jack your trailer up enough to get the weight off the springs so that they spring back in place and the shackle is straight. It is hard to find the correct size U-bolts so see nccamper's post above. The original have grease fittings instead of straight bolts but they can be replaced with straight bolts if the bolts fit the bracket. My grease fittings were salvageable and I don't think the standard size bolts I bought would fit. My u-bolts were too long so a spacers was welded. I bought four leaf 3500 lb springs, the other option was 2000 lb 3 leaf. It originally had 4 leaf springs so I went with the four. The new springs are thicker than the old. I bought my springs at Northern Tool.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Aug 28, 2015 6:44:42 GMT -8
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Aug 28, 2015 14:00:10 GMT -8
Great info SusieQ. I think all vintage campers deserve new springs.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 28, 2015 14:33:32 GMT -8
If you need new U bolts you can use steel plates both above and below the axle and four grade five bolts, but make sure you use plate close the thickness of your original u bolts and make certain you drill the holes so that the bolts lightly touch the sides of the springs. The same with buying new U bolts make sure they fit the springs. Also when buying springs make certain if the weight rating is for one spring or a pair (huge difference). I personally like a spring with a heavier weight rating than the originals. This gives a more stable ride since very few trailers have shocks. Less side to side rocking and leaning on bumps and curves. Another caution is if you move the axle under the springs make sure you drill a new locating hole in the top of the axle exactly above the original to the same depth. You may also need the replace the spring center bolt with a new one installed the opposite direction.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Aug 28, 2015 15:12:16 GMT -8
Good info Bill. And I should have noted that my springs were rated as a pair for 3500lbs. You should also be sure and buy your springs in pairs. I guess that's common sense but if you replace one you should replace both.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 29, 2015 12:29:22 GMT -8
Good info Bill. And I should have noted that my springs were rated as a pair for 3500lbs. You should also be sure and buy your springs in pairs. I guess that's common sense but if you replace one you should replace both. Yes that goes without saying. NEVER NEVER replace just one spring always replace them in pairs.
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