coloradoan
Active Member
Posts: 114 
Likes: 26
1959 Shasta Airflyte 16
Currently Offline
|
Post by coloradoan on Jul 28, 2014 21:01:37 GMT -8
My painter, who restores vintage cars but has never painted a vintage trailer before, is suggesting putting seam sealer on the seams where the roof, front and back panels overlap the side panels. The paint will go over the seam sealer and then I would be putting the putty tape and brushed aluminum (no paint) Jrails over all that.
What do you all say? From what I can see about seam sealer on YouTube, it's used at the factory on new cars wherever two pieces of metal are spot welded BEFORE the paint. It stays flexible for years and my painter swears by it. My fear is that IF that seam sealer fails, then all the putty tape in the world won't seal those seams.
Any advice? I deliver Lucille to the painter on Wednesday morning WOOHOO!!!!
|
|
John Palmer
Leading Member
Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
Posts: 1,772 
Likes: 625
Currently Offline
|
Post by John Palmer on Jul 28, 2014 21:34:43 GMT -8
It's fine as long as it's URETHANE seam sealer, which is paintable.
I do every new skin that way, no matter if it gets painted, or left bare.
One more thing........make sure he knows that the rain rail is going to be only 3/4" high, so he needs to tape the area to 3/4", and you will have a sharp edge line that will be completely covered by the rain rail. |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jul 28, 2014 21:37:33 GMT -8
It sounds like he knows what he's talking about... I've never used Automotive seam sealer. As long as it's minimal and smoothed properly (ie: flat), I don't see a problem. The J rail doesn't seat well if the surface is not fairly flat.
Hope to have others chime in here.
|
|
coloradoan
Active Member
Posts: 114
Likes: 26
1959 Shasta Airflyte 16
Currently Offline
|
Post by coloradoan on Jul 29, 2014 20:04:08 GMT -8
Thanks, guys! I knew I could count on getting a straight answer here! I do think this painter knows what he's doing, but I still get nervous when something I've never heard of before gets suggested. But this does sound like a great product.
|
|
|
|
Post by norwellequipped on Sept 8, 2014 6:30:12 GMT -8
I will always use Automotive paintable seam sealer…. works very very well.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator 
Posts: 7,818
Likes: 2,930
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Oct 9, 2014 18:59:57 GMT -8
It's fine as long as it's URETHANE seam sealer, which is paintable.
I do every new skin that way, no matter if it gets painted, or left bare.
One more thing........make sure he knows that the rain rail is going to be only 3/4" high, so he needs to tape the area to 3/4", and you will have a sharp edge line that will be completely covered by the rain rail. This may seem like a stupid question, but are seam sealers and lap sealers more or less the same thing? What is the advantage of using an automotive seam sealer? |
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Oct 9, 2014 22:33:13 GMT -8
Quality is everything with a sealer. Automotive seam sealer is made to use before paint and look good.
Lap sealers may or may not work. For instance, Dicor self leveling Lap sealant is for roof protrusions, and is self leveling. It would run down the side of the trailer... It also develops bubbles and cracks, re-touching is easy. However, in a visible area, would look a mess.
|
|
