globestar
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Post by globestar on Jul 6, 2014 16:43:09 GMT -8
After some trial and error with 3M Super Compound, sandpaper, elbow grease, I came up with the best method for me that is giving decent results without taking forever. The polishing compound took a really long time, and because it's such small pieces with so many tight spots, the finish looked fantastic in some areas, and shabby in others. I ended up going with a brass wire brush attachment on the end of my drill. The camper is getting fresh paint right now, so rather than stick the faded and pitted old windows back in there, I wanted to clean them up some, but I'm really pressed for time - we're supposed to meet some family for our first outing next week! Is there a better way? (Like some magic chemical that you can just dip them in and they come out like new?)     |
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globestar
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Post by globestar on Jul 6, 2014 16:55:05 GMT -8
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 6, 2014 18:22:25 GMT -8
I think you've already found the other polishing thread. Fine steel wool is MAGIC! Check with Vintage Trailer Supply for the rubber drip piece. www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Window_Gasket_s/26.htm They are very helpful if you need to call and ask questions. |
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 6, 2014 21:26:21 GMT -8
You might have a problem finding seals for those windows if your looking for Jalousie Parts. I don't think they are Jalousie, but the newer, Hehr Clearview model windows. Jalousie style windows were made by several different companies, and had smaller glass that was supported only on the ends. Because of the different makes, it's hard to find the correct seals, which come in many different sizes.
The Hehr Clearview windows were a much nicer design. |
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Post by vikx on Jul 6, 2014 22:47:48 GMT -8
I've had trouble with the jalousie seals and the foot fitting the groove. The fuzzy stuff from VTS has not fit any of my jalousies, tho the top seal fit a few. Most of the time, the fit is so off the seal won't work. JMO
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 7, 2014 8:00:34 GMT -8
I've had trouble with the jalousie seals and the foot fitting the groove. The fuzzy stuff from VTS has not fit any of my jalousies, tho the top seal fit a few. Most of the time, the fit is so off the seal won't work. JMO Yup, you might need to be creative on some of the windows. I don't think there's a single answer for this subject. I have found some "workable sizes" of fuzzy strips, at the local ACE in the sliding door section. You just need to take a measurement of your channel size and take the calipers to the store with you so you can match it up. I have also used the plastic spline that is used in modern window screens to fill up some of the air gaps on the side of Jailousie windows. HD has a good selection on the spline sizes.
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Post by vikx on Jul 7, 2014 9:45:04 GMT -8
Good idea on the spline John! Thanks for the info, too.
I'm currently searching for a length of silicone solid tube (like VTS used to sell) Like to cut my own discs for the glass panes. It helps to be able to adjust the width...
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globestar
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Post by globestar on Jul 7, 2014 9:57:36 GMT -8
You might have a problem finding seals for those windows if your looking for Jalousie Parts. I don't think they are Jalousie, but the newer, Hehr Clearview model windows. Jalousie style windows were made by several different companies, and had smaller glass that was supported only on the ends. Because of the different makes, it's hard to find the correct seals, which come in many different sizes.
The Hehr Clearview windows were a much nicer design. Oh really? Wow - interesting, I had no idea. Thanks! |
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Jul 9, 2014 11:42:34 GMT -8
A little tip you might do before installing your windows...
Where the window to wall screws have dished the window frames (see the 3rd and 4th holes from the right on the cleaned window pic) take a piece of 2x2 soft wood and clamp it to the outside of the window frame, then use a pan head screw in your screw gun, set at low torque, and shoot it through the existing screw holes into said 2x2. The pan head screw will magically flatten the frame back out so when it's time to reinstall, the putty tape won't have gaps where it would had you left the puckered areas. DON'T try flattening the frames with a hammer. Trust me on that.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 9, 2014 15:20:40 GMT -8
A little tip you might do before installing your windows... Where the window to wall screws have dished the window frames (see the 3rd and 4th holes from the right on the cleaned window pic) take a piece of 2x2 soft wood and clamp it to the outside of the window frame, then use a pan head screw in your screw gun, set at low torque, and shoot it through the existing screw holes into said 2x2. The pan head screw will magically flatten the frame back out so when it's time to reinstall, the putty tape won't have gaps where it would had you left the puckered areas. DON'T try flattening the frames with a hammer. Trust me on that. I "hammer on every window frame, and eyebrow" that I restore. You have to have a flat "auto body dolly" to back up the area that your working on to absorb the blows. When working with soft aluminum, you use a very light hammer, and light touch.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 9, 2014 16:06:59 GMT -8
I use the hammer and dolly also, for me better and faster.
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