real550A
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1966 BeeLine Wasp 13
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Post by real550A on Jun 28, 2014 8:05:43 GMT -8
This 1966 BeeLine Wasp 13 has a system of 3/8" x 1-1/2" hoops, with the rafters sandwiched in between, around the perimeter of the walls. My question is, what kind of wood do you think the bent 3/8" strips are? It appears to be solid wood, not plywood. Would a person have to soak these strips to get them to conform to the arc without breaking? Didn't see this style in any of Larry's videos, but sure learned a lot about the others! Many thanks, Larry! TIA for any help/advice! Mike
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 28, 2014 16:04:20 GMT -8
Just pull the outer strip off, and "fill in" the empty space with paneling, or 1/4" plywood cut into strips. If the outer strip is still good, reuse it.
You need to have a solid framing edge for the roof, and side trim to screw into.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 28, 2014 18:53:05 GMT -8
Do what ever John says. I've never even seen framing like that LOL... Everyone can learn here.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Jun 28, 2014 20:43:48 GMT -8
Yea Larry, I have not seen one constructed like that also.
But, it looks really loose to me. Look at the framing joints, they are stapled (very common), but look at the 1/4" to 1/2" gaps. That wall cannot be ridged, IMO. I would add some sister framing boards, glued, and Kreg Screwed into the original framing.
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real550A
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Post by real550A on Jun 29, 2014 4:29:46 GMT -8
Many thanks, John and Larry. That's what I'll do is fill in the gaps. You are correct in your suspicion that the walls are not very sturdy. As I replace the rotten ones, the joints will all be "glued and screwed". I'll then redo all the weak ones.
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real550A
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Post by real550A on Jun 29, 2014 11:39:47 GMT -8
The 6'flat portion of the roof is solid 2x2, or is supposed to be. Looks like the worst of the damage is at the side seam, and not around the vent.
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cheri
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1967 Vanbrook Trunkback
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Post by cheri on Jun 29, 2014 12:23:16 GMT -8
Hi Mike, I'm not a pro, but my trailer is built this way. I believe the bent boards are steam bent oak. All of the inner bent boards were in good shape on mine, but I replaced one of the outer boards with a one that I made by gluing thin strips of hardwood plywood together. The ends of the rafters did not hold up as well as the oak, and I replaced all of those. The big problem I had with this part of my repair was that the oak is almost impossible to nail into. I replaced those big nails that go through the top bent board, the "rafter", the paneling and finally the bottom bent board with screws, and I broke down and bought a small air compressor and stapler to hang the aluminum skin. It was originally tacked on with small nails, but I couldn't nail into the oak without predrilling. The bent strips really bounce when you try to nail into them. (The stapler handles it ok.) Mine also has some short (less than six inch) pieces of rafter material that fit in between the rafters. I didn't get the purpose at first, but they help reduce some of the bounce. I also added a solid piece of wood in the space at the top that is kind of triangular. Here is a link to a rebuild on a Wildcat that has the same kind of frame. The owner got rid of the bent oak. api.ning.com/files/qpy76mLIbeJMoFdQ1Ub-0j1MkRfxJWSygTMojuYQMWrEf22UJKwvdIlGCLsNNQSbblH5VvjazdI83fLRAvJQ2uHQurMMZWiL/Wildcat010.jpg?width=737&height=552I am interested to see what you decide to do. Best of luck Cheri
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real550A
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Post by real550A on Jun 29, 2014 15:20:40 GMT -8
Thanks for the link, Cheri...that's another alternative that crossed my mind. Mine also has those short "dummy" pieces between the rafters. I think they help retain the integrity of the arc, so the strips don't squeeze together. I could eliminate most of them by filling in solid, as John suggested above. I'll work on the bottom and wheelwell, while I think about this, and experiment with a few pieces. When I decide which way I'm going, I'll sure let you know. I really appreciate the help on this board!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jun 29, 2014 17:25:30 GMT -8
Oak would be too hard to accept staples or nails.
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fizzy
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Post by fizzy on Jul 10, 2014 15:33:40 GMT -8
my Frolic is built the same way. i ripped pressure treated 2x4 and repaired mine.
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Post by vikx on Jul 10, 2014 22:38:58 GMT -8
Quote: The 6'flat portion of the roof is solid 2x2, or is supposed to be. Looks like the worst of the damage is at the side seam, and not around the vent."
Very often the way it is when the trailer is opened up. The vent area hasn't been leaking, it's J rail putty failure!
Do you have pictures of the ceiling 550? These pictures would really "prove" what most of us already know... where the water comes from.
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real550A
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Post by real550A on Jul 11, 2014 10:04:17 GMT -8
I'll try to post some ceiling shots soon. I did notice that the roof metal didn't quite meet the side metal, let alone overlap it, as in mobiltec's videos. Seems like it's asking a lot from the butyl, when there's wood showing. I'll paint all the top wood a couple coats, before putting the skin on, and do the best job possible with the butyl tape. Also, the house wrap should help keep the wood dry.
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real550A
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Post by real550A on Jul 11, 2014 10:30:54 GMT -8
This is J-channel leak damage in the rear bunk area, not near the roof vent. Both sides are similar.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 12, 2014 15:36:27 GMT -8
OK I'm keeping out of this one as I would have no idea what I'm talking about due to lack of experience with this type of construction.
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Post by vikx on Jul 12, 2014 21:57:33 GMT -8
The metal is "butted" rather than overlapped, a very vulnerable construction method, not to mention leaky.
The edge trim is not J rail but L rail, wrapped around and sealed on both sides.
If there is any way to buy new roof metal and overlap the walls, I would do it. The old Shastas (54-57) were butted at the lower corners and the two here haven't leaked in that area. Dinette windows, yes, edges, no. Granted, there was wonderful old cloth backed putty as a seal.
My thought is, if you could at least overlap the roof area, you would be ahead of the game.
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