jlr
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Post by jlr on May 14, 2014 9:00:23 GMT -8
We are going to paint our trailer ourselves. I found a blog that explained in good detail how they tackled their paint job. They decided to go with latex instead of oil based. We live in Indiana and the temperatures are really hot in the summer and really cold in the winter. Can someone please give me some advice on how to tackle our first paint job? What are your opinions/experiences with latex and oil based? Here is a link to their blog: rmhouseofnoise.blogspot.com/2012/08/vintage-trailer-restoration-part-4.html |
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Post by bigbill on May 14, 2014 12:44:42 GMT -8
I have never used latex on an RV so I am not an expert but I can tell you that I have seen aluminum sided houses repainted with latex that peeled off after a couple of years. If I was going to use it on my trailer I would want to talk to a knowledgeable paint professional about proper prep and primer to use first to assure a lasting bond of the top coat. GM used water based trim paint on their Chevy Astro vans in the 80s around the side windows and it washed off to the primer. I do know that they now make special latex paint to use on Aluminum siding, but again I know very little about it.
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on May 14, 2014 12:47:38 GMT -8
You can certainly paint your trailer with latex based paint. The paints that were originally used on these trailers were oil-based, albeit very sparingly applied, and many times have lasted 50 years or more. I wouldn't be worried about the issues the blogger spoke about. Also, there are better products to use than Bondo to do small repairs on aluminum. We don't know of a pro who uses, or prefers, latex-based paint, but there are plenty of folks out there who have used it and are happy with the outcome. Good luck!
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jlr
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Post by jlr on May 14, 2014 15:57:00 GMT -8
Thanks for the input...it sounds like the most important part of painting is really the prep.  |
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Post by bigbill on May 14, 2014 16:45:01 GMT -8
The prep is the most important part of any paint job. I was reading the blog you posted and they used silicone to seal the windows and paint won't stick to that also caulking the windows with silicone is not a recommended practice, there are much better ways to seal a window.
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jlr
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Post by jlr on May 14, 2014 16:53:35 GMT -8
The prep is the most important part of any paint job. I was reading the blog you posted and they used silicone to seal the windows and paint won't stick to that also caulking the windows with silicone is not a recommended practice, there are much better ways to seal a window. I read that, I thought the same thing about them using silicone. I am definitely not following everything they did I just thought their apprach to painting seemed easy  |
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Hamlet
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Post by Hamlet on May 14, 2014 17:15:57 GMT -8
Just a caveat. When we first got Hamlet, there was almost nothing out in either print or on the internet about vintage trailer restoration (hard to believe that was only 5 years ago). When we found one person on Ebay selling a download of how to completely restore a vintage trailer, we were thrilled beyond words. Then we read it. It was full of things like how to camouflage stained wood and mold stains. The quick way to do things. Not one word (as I remember) about fixing rot, or other true repairs. We were uncomfortable with that, so we just used our best judgment and took it apart, piece by piece, learning how it was originally built, and rebuilt it from the bottom up the same way.
I looked at the blog website you posted with interest, as we're always looking to learn something new about our little treasure, (which is why, after 5 years, first of the VSTF and now VTT, we're still here), and noticed that the blogger relied heavily on the same download. I don't want do denigrate anyone's work, but mobiltec (I think that was you, mobil) once said, in his great wisdom, that when people asked him the quickest or easiest way to do something, he always told them the BEST way. That's the great thing about this forum. We can read about others' successes, and, yes, boo boos, and learn from all of them. It's good to know that you are also looking out for incongruities, it'll save you many hours of rework, frustration, and dollars (or Loonies and Toonies if you're from north of the 49th) in the long run.
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on May 14, 2014 21:26:44 GMT -8
I spray painted a newly built steel car trailer about twelve years ago with a "latex Based" DTM (Direct To Metal) white primer. The trailer sits outside in the sun 24/7, 365 days a year. This primer product has held up very well. The only places that have failed are places where we have chipped the primer down to the metal. It was the perfect product for this use. Would I use this on a travel trailer, "never". It does not have a nice gloss, and it would be hard to "feather in" if you ever needed to repair a small section. It would also be very hard to tape and two tone, using a paint that does not have a hardener in it.
Another thing, do not confuse latex paint like you would buy at HD with this commercial PPG DTM paint. It is also not the same as the modern "water borne" paints commonly used today.
You need to find your local "automotive" paint store, and tell them what you want to paint and how you plan to apply it. They will give you several options. Because of the great amount of time needed for proper paint prep, it would be a shame to screw it up. Talk with your professional paint store.
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Post by vikx on May 14, 2014 21:51:22 GMT -8
I got hooked into paying 5 bucks for the same "restoration manual" that Hamlet did. Really a piece of (poor) work. Any connection to this guy makes me a little nervous...
We use oil based paint on the trailers. Automotive paint is the best but we are not always able to invest that much.
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houdini
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Post by houdini on Oct 12, 2014 6:00:12 GMT -8
  We used Rustoleum red oil based... goes on smooth and looks great... |
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SusieQ
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'62 Shasta Compact
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Post by SusieQ on Oct 12, 2014 6:29:03 GMT -8
Looks really nice! Good choice!
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Post by bigbill on Oct 12, 2014 6:41:41 GMT -8
Lookin Good I have used Rustoleum and also Ace rust paint over the years with great results.
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soup
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Post by soup on Oct 12, 2014 8:52:48 GMT -8
I've used the Rustoleum also. Very forgiving and mixes in a way you can save the extra for another time. However, I have noticed it wants to streak with rain water coming off the polished aluminum J-rails and window frames.
IMHO, Custom blended automotive paint mixed for the surface your painting on is the only way to go for superior look and longevity.
No mater the paint used think Prep ,Prep, Prep... You can never do too much prep before the paint.
The wildcat trailer is Rustoleum Paint. The red car hauler is like Farm/Fleet tractor paint, all oil based;http://vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/262/1971-wildcat-flash-back-future?page=3
This Shasta Compact was also sprayed out of the very same gallon of Rustoleum as the Wildcat;
vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/479/compact-bring-boil-reduce-simmer?page=4
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Oct 12, 2014 13:19:58 GMT -8
Soup, I "Really like" your race car hauler.
If I had the space......one would be parked in my driveway for sure.
In California, we have a statewide 55MPH limit on any size trailer. Having the pay load on the truck makes a lot of sense to get around the 55MPH speed law.
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Oct 12, 2014 16:16:34 GMT -8
Here are some alternative painting ideas I came across a while ago. link I'm using (soybean based) "Majic" enamel tractor paint (w/hardner) applying with 4" foam rollers, wet sanding w/ 320 grit between coats. Have 3-4 coats now. It almost looks sprayed. Its an awful lot of work, lots of masking to do, but if you are not set up to spray you can still get good results at reasonable $ cost. link |
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