sll
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Post by sll on Jun 28, 2013 8:24:39 GMT -8
I would like to go from a one breaker system to two breakers (have my electric furnace on a separate one from main electrical - we are not running gas lines at all). However, I am a little unsure how this works (I am new to electrical. The power comes in from the wire attached to the inlet, but then how do I link to two separate breakers? Do I have a line from each breaker running to that main power line and then just wingnut them together?
Thanks!
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Post by universalexports on Jun 28, 2013 8:43:34 GMT -8
best to use a new box, thats the only way I know how to do it, the power from outside comes into a lug, and each breaker clicks into the lug rail, this puts power to the breakers, then whre it comes out of the breakers goes to the lines to the outlets in the camper. the white and copper wires go to a buss bar, one for each usually, I am not good at electric either, but someone will chime in.
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Post by kto17 on Jun 28, 2013 13:13:11 GMT -8
Check my post on providing safe power. I'm still working on it but it should help you.
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Post by vikx on Jun 28, 2013 21:51:09 GMT -8
KTO's thread is great, read away!
One thing you need to be aware of is that your "inlet" is only 15 amps. The wire from the inlet is 14/2, rated at 15 amps. To add a breaker, you will need to upgrade the inlet and main wire to the breaker box to 30 amps. Electric heaters pull about 13 amps, so your original wiring won't support the heater and all the lights and plugs. (not to mention cooking appliances)
After you check out KTO's thread, come back and ask questions.
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sll
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Post by sll on Jun 29, 2013 18:17:55 GMT -8
So that was really helpful. We are upgrading to the new inlet and I will make sure to get some 10 ga wire to run to the breaker box. I am also thinking that it will be best to just replace the breaker box and breaker as well.
The old breaker box looks different from the new ones (I am looking at the image 003eBreakerBox1.jpg). Looks like on the new ones you run the positive to one spot and then click in the breakers. Then you use those "ground bars" for the negative and the ground, again looking at that jpeg. Does this sound right?
It looks like that photo has two 15s and a 20 in it. Is that right?
So what I need.
1. 10 ga wire to run from inlet.
2. New breaker box - "load center?" Where can I get the size that is show in that photo. So many I see online are huge ones for a house.
3. Two of the ground bar kits.
4. Two of the 15 amp breakers (are there different size of 15 or is that good?).
Related question - for my outlets and switches I should be buying the 15 amp versions correct?
Thanks everyone! This board makes the overwhelmed feeling go away.
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Jun 30, 2013 17:42:47 GMT -8
Your best bet for a load center is from either Home Depot or Lowe's. Purchase a 100 amp main lug panel. This box will probably have space for 6 breakers. Then purchase a 30 amp breaker which you will use as a main breaker. What you are doing is backfeeding from the breaker to the main buss bars through this breaker so you have main line protection. Just remember to place a jumper with between the two buss bars so you have power (110volts) on both buss bars. The other spaces can be utilized as you wish. You can either use 15 or 20 amp breakers and break your circuits down how ever you want. Just remember, your load on all of the feeder breakers will not be able to exceed the 30 amp main. Here is a wiring diagram I drew for another member (old forum) that might help. Note that the bare grounding wire and the white wire coming in are both secured to the grounding buss. I show 20 amp breakers in this diagram but you can use 15's also. You don't need to worry about the grounding buss as it comes with the panel.
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Post by vikx on Jun 30, 2013 21:28:00 GMT -8
I use this box from Home Depot: It is Square D, QO and will run 4 circuits with tandem or twin breakers. The common bar and ground bar are already installed. Here it is with the cover on: You can use one 15 amp breaker for your original lighting and a few plug-ins, the next 15 amp circuit for more outlets and the final 20 amp circuit runs kitchen appliances and possibly an outside receptacle. My boxes don't have a "main" breaker and only control the trailer circuits. The main is on the shore power line.
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Jul 1, 2013 6:44:18 GMT -8
That certainly makes a clean looking installation and would do the job nicely. Don't know why I haven't seen this panel in my shopping tours. A main is not a requirement as there are only 4 breakers to trip if you need to shut everything down. It also gives you the opportunity to isolate the equipment ground from the neutral buss if necessary. That is a good feature. Thanks Vikx. I will take a look next time I am in HD.
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sll
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Post by sll on Jul 1, 2013 7:36:12 GMT -8
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sll
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Post by sll on Jul 1, 2013 11:54:06 GMT -8
Sorry, posted the wrong link for the inlet, should have linked to the 30amp version.
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Post by kto17 on Jul 1, 2013 13:02:46 GMT -8
If you want to save money on the inlet. Buy the 30 amp cord and cut the end that is female off and strip the wires back. See the photo in the providing safe power thread that shows the clean box like this one and a junction box beside it. The junction box is for the connection between the cord and the solid copper 10gauge that goes into the box and to the lugs. Then use something like this to get the cord outside. www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=26155&SID=8&DID=50&CID=378Vikx could tell you for sure as thats where I got the above picture but it looks like that is about 8gauge by the green arrow. The red arrow is a jumper to the second lug for the other breaker, it should be 12 gauge min because thats a 20amp circuit. If you can avoid it, don't tie the neutral (white) and the ground (bare) together on the same buss bar as shown in the hand sketch in a prior post. Keep them separate its much safer.
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Post by vikx on Jul 1, 2013 21:32:34 GMT -8
OK, the 30 amp inlet supplies 10 gauge wire to the J box/breaker box. In this particular installation, I used 10/2 with ground flexible cord because of a planned upgrade. The green arrow points to the black/hot wire; it is stranded and coated with electric contact grease before tightening the lug.
The red arrow points to my 10 gauge jumper wire connecting the two hot lugs in the box. It is going "down" because these boxes don't allow space for an upper jumper. (the lid screws flat in that area) The jumper should always be the same gauge as your main incoming wire. (in this case, 10 ga.)
In vintage trailers, the ground bar and neutral must be separated. The frame ground provides protection from "hot skin" shocks...
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