sll
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Post by sll on May 11, 2014 19:26:13 GMT -8
After rebuilding the countertop on out '64 Airflyte, the sink edging no longer is flush with the counter top. It is an undermounts sink and has an aluminum edging that goes around the interior. With the new counter, there is about an 1/8th of an inch of the aluminum sticking up all the way around. We thought about just caulking around it, but does look a bit odd.
I was hoping I could trim it down myself when a metal cutting wheel, but tried on some test pieces and did not go well.
Any suggestion for how to do this or should I just give up and call a fabricator? Also, if needed, how do I find fabricators who do this kind of work?
Thanks,
Steven
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on May 11, 2014 20:01:00 GMT -8
Steven, do you have any pics? Someone might have a solution or suggestion if they see a pic of the problem.
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Post by vikx on May 11, 2014 21:57:25 GMT -8
I agree. I need to "see" what you're talking about.
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Post by bigbill on May 12, 2014 4:48:50 GMT -8
After rebuilding the countertop on out '64 Airflyte, the sink edging no longer is flush with the counter top. It is an undermounts sink and has an aluminum edging that goes around the interior. With the new counter, there is about an 1/8th of an inch of the aluminum sticking up all the way around. We thought about just caulking around it, but does look a bit odd. I was hoping I could trim it down myself when a metal cutting wheel, but tried on some test pieces and did not go well. Any suggestion for how to do this or should I just give up and call a fabricator? Also, if needed, how do I find fabricators who do this kind of work? Thanks, Steven If this is still removable and not a glue in sink then why not add a 1/8 inch spacer between the sink and the counter, that would allow the trim to fit perfectly
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sll
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Post by sll on May 12, 2014 6:47:08 GMT -8
I will take photos this afternoon and post. We had tornado warnings here all last night so couldnt get out there.
Unfortunately, everything is already attached down. The underlay for the counter top is two pieces, adding a spacer under sink would have meant have to tear out underlay on other side of counter to raise it to be level with sink, etc.
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Post by bigbill on May 12, 2014 7:06:47 GMT -8
I will take photos this afternoon and post. We had tornado warnings here all last night so couldnt get out there. Unfortunately, everything is already attached down. The underlay for the counter top is two pieces, adding a spacer under sink would have meant have to tear out underlay on other side of counter to raise it to be level with sink, etc. OK next idea if trim is removable cut or grind off off the bottom of the trim then reinstall and caulk between trim and sink. If that is not an option could you very carefully peen the edge over using a nylon or wood block to prevent scratching the trim to wind up with more of a rolled edge.
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sll
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Post by sll on May 12, 2014 10:11:58 GMT -8
I did try grinding on some practice metal yesterday, it looked pretty bad. Is there a jib I could build? Anyone had luck with this?
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sll
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Post by sll on May 12, 2014 14:35:50 GMT -8
Ok, here are some photos. It actually looks worse in the photo than in person. I would guess the gap is 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch.
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Post by bigbill on May 12, 2014 19:08:31 GMT -8
Another suggestion would be to buy a thinner piece of alum then cut a plywood form to bend it around, then drill your mounting holes and polish it to the finish you desire. You might also make a plywood center the exact size you need then screw the trim to it upside down and sand the extra off with a belt sander till it was flush with your form. It is hard to make suggestions when I don't know your mechanical ability or what tools you have but Hopefully we will come up with a workable solution for you.
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Post by bigbill on May 12, 2014 19:13:19 GMT -8
As almost everyone in this hobby has had to finally give in a tear something back apart to hopefully get it right the second time, this may be your best option. Never fun but some times worth it.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on May 12, 2014 19:41:46 GMT -8
Take a look at "A moment in Time".. they sell a bunch of different aluminum trims for table edging in different sizes. So does Vintage camping supplies, and Vintage trailer supplies. I would try a 3/4 or 7/8 counter trim piece and see if you can adapt it. Here is a photo of one from Vintage Tailer supplies for their trim ... in case it helps.
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Post by vikx on May 12, 2014 21:28:08 GMT -8
Your trim doesn't look that bad. I would put a very sparing, tasteful bead of caulk and smooth it. It will take care of the gap and seal against leaks... Practice with the caulk first, a lot of it takes paint thinner to get a really nice look. Took me 4 hours to do the bathtub many years ago. LOL.
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sll
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Post by sll on May 13, 2014 6:01:01 GMT -8
Another suggestion would be to buy a thinner piece of alum then cut a plywood form to bend it around, then drill your mounting holes and polish it to the finish you desire. You might also make a plywood center the exact size you need then screw the trim to it upside down and sand the extra off with a belt sander till it was flush with your form. It is hard to make suggestions when I don't know your mechanical ability or what tools you have but Hopefully we will come up with a workable solution for you. Hmm, I like this idea of making a mold (or other template) and then using that to cut it down after turning it upside down. Has anyone ever tried belt sanding this type of aluminum? Lord knows I love taking a belt sander to whatever I can! Otherwise, might just go with vikx and just caulk it in. I love a clean looking trailer, but more than that I love a done trailer!
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Post by bigbill on May 13, 2014 7:35:52 GMT -8
Yes I have used a belt sander on alum before, use a very fine belt and on something thin sand with the aluminum not across it or it will bend. You can even use belt grease or bar soap to get a finer cut, the finer the belt the better off you are. As far as caulking it in that would work also. or you could make a nice wood spacer that filled the gap then paint or varnish it or how about a plastic strip that would fill the gap? If I was caulking it I would go with a product like liquid nails bath tub white caulk it is durable and stays white some of the others yellow after a year two.
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sll
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Post by sll on May 13, 2014 8:31:11 GMT -8
Once I get my belt sander back from my brother, I am going to do some testing. Good point on the white caulk, we were also kicking around using a charcoal gray we found.
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