finnmacool
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Post by finnmacool on Apr 29, 2014 10:38:55 GMT -8
1974 Neonex Dutch Swinger: Hi folks... Bought this awesome camper and when I started examining, turns out there was major rot on the frame. Have a guy reframing for me but as this is my first attempt at something like this, I am asking (begging?) for some tips: Flooring - I want to install laminant. Should I basically remove the entire frame from the floor (and probably replace the floor while i'm at it) and install before the frame gets put back on? Skin - In pretty good shape but the edging needs to be replaced. Not sure what to even look for at the RV/Hardware store. It was aluminum but had a black plastic strip insert. Are those separate items? Is there something better? The skin has small tears from staple removal, can I get a thicker edging? Sealing - What do I use for a. the windows/door b. anything at the skin edges? c. ceiling vent Replacing Electrical - I have a guy...what do I ask him for? Have an electrical outlet on the trailer with a fuse box. I want 2-4 lights with a switch, 2-4 outlets for small appliances and recharging gear. Battery power...any special kind? Should I get 2? Fridge/Stove - Runs on propane and works well. Should I replace the propane lines? If so, where do I get the necessary gear to do this? Insulation - Thoughts on fiberglass vs foamboard. Might do some early winter/late fall camping. Can I sparayfoam the undercarriage?   |
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Apr 29, 2014 13:13:09 GMT -8
Nice camper. I have one (a "Bravo" early-70's) that is similar shaped and same rims. There were lots of manufacturers around in the early-70's or so that all copied one another, so lots that looked alike.... Just a few quick thoughts on your questions. Edging....is it just the black trim that is broken up? or is the aluminum damaged too. It is a style that I am not real familiar with, usually the older ones have the plain j-channel (which acts like rain gutter)...like this:  www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Aluminum_Drip_Moulding_p/vts-011.htmAnd this for the awning:  www.vintagetrailersupply.com/8_Awning_Rail_p/vts-876.htmI would be fairly sure that you can find the type with the black insert still available but I have not seen it anywhere (most likely for a lack of looking). You should probably try an RV dealer that is local to you, as in either case, the shipping costs including the container is quite expensive. These rails, as with the door frame, window frames, and the roof vent, are sealed where they join to the aluminum siding (or roof) with a putty tape. It likely is most easily available through an RV dealer. Again, the weight makes it expensive to ship, but it is available through most of the supply companies and can even be found on ebay. Electrical: " Replacing Electrical - I have a guy..." Sounds like my son-in-law...."I'll call my guy..."  If you are considering replacing the system as a whole, I would recommend changing it all out...especially if it has fuses. A modern breaker box would be a much the originals were usually 15-amp or 20-amp, single or two-breaker systems, with light wiring. I would go with a 30-amp system and wire it with 12-ga. wire. The details depend on how many outlets and where...you know, specific to the trailer. You will never regret wiring it heavier than you need, rather than wishing you could add on later. I would not think you should have to replace propane lines, except the regulator and rubber hoses on the exterior. The interior work is all copper and brass, and they do not tend to rot...at least not so quickly as most things. I would suggest a professional inspection of the system though. It can be leakdown tested pretty easily, and a check is always a good idea, since a leak can lead to catastrophe in a real hurry. In the case of having a working stove and a propane fridge that works, I would definitely have the checks done and keep the system up. There are discussions about insulation on the boards...many use the foam board, some use the type with the foil backing for vapor barrier...Originally the trailers were built with the thin layer of fiberglass, but what I have seen of it, I cannot imagine winter camping with that... I have no idea for sure, no experience, but I would not see any reason for NOT spray-foaming the underside of the floor....except maybe if it works loose and falls on the road after it ages. This looks like a great project. You got lots to look forward to. Nice going! |
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Post by vikx on Apr 29, 2014 21:11:36 GMT -8
Congrats on your trailer! Really a cute one.
10 just about said it all, good info for you.
The propane lines of yesteryear were thicker walled than today's "refrigeration line". If the existing lines haven't been damaged, I would keep them for sure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it...
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finnmacool
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Post by finnmacool on Apr 30, 2014 6:38:52 GMT -8
)...like this: Jeez, I wish I had some of that!  No, Its a 45 bend aluminum strip that covers the seam on the skin and is stapled right into the frame but i`m sure the advice is the same.I would be fairly sure that you can find the type with the black insert still available but I have not seen it anywhere (most likely for a lack of looking). Electrical: " Replacing Electrical - I have a guy..." Sounds like my son-in-law...."I'll call my guy..." My wife`s grandfather is mister build it...i`m a lucky guy! If you are considering replacing the system as a whole, I would recommend changing it all out...especially if it has fuses. A modern breaker box would be a much the originals were usually 15-amp or 20-amp, single or two-breaker systems, with light wiring. I would go with a 30-amp system and wire it with 12-ga. wire. The details depend on how many outlets and where...you know, specific to the trailer. You will never regret wiring it heavier than you need, rather than wishing you could add on later. There are discussions about insulation on the boards...many use the foam board, some use the type with the foil backing for vapor barrier...Originally the trailers were built with the thin layer of fiberglass, but what I have seen of it, I cannot imagine winter camping with that... I have no idea for sure, no experience, but I would not see any reason for NOT spray-foaming the underside of the floor....except maybe if it works loose and falls on the road after it ages. Is sparay foam the way to go or are there other options?This looks like a great project. You got lots to look forward to. Nice going! |
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steve
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Post by steve on Aug 29, 2014 7:49:00 GMT -8
I just bought one of these on Monday. Looks a bit different than the one in your picture but its in amazing shape! It has had a structure built around it for the last 10 years or so. It doesn't have a heater in it but as I just got it I'm anxious to camp as much as possible before it gets too cold (In Northern Ontario) I might spray foam he floor but the walls are all intact. What do people use for heating these things?
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No, Its a 45 bend aluminum strip that covers the seam on the skin and is stapled right into the frame but i`m sure the advice is the same.