ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 24, 2014 16:58:23 GMT -8
Well, with news from the County that I will be able to register my trailer without a title, I am officially starting the renovation of my late 50's/early 60's Yellowstone. Other than a small piece of collision damage to the right rear, all interior damage is from water penetration at the seams and vents. Although the upper cabinets seem to be in good shape, the previous owner butchered the closet, lavatory, and kitchen counter. All interior panels have some water damage.   I mentioned in another thread that the PO caulked, sealed, and laid plywood over everything. On the outside he put some kind of tar on the roof and "sealed" the seams and windows with some kind of rubbery goop.  This is going to take a while. I may need therapy. |
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Apr 24, 2014 17:14:42 GMT -8
Not Therapy.. You are going to have to get new skin for the roof. From the pics, the rest of the skin looks in really good condition for it age. There looks to be a lot of frustration in that roof and you have a real gem in this Yellowstone.
I'd fear turning what's under that tar into a sieve. Then you would have to replace it all anyhow..
Wow. I really like this trailer 63.. Good luck with that roof
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 24, 2014 17:48:20 GMT -8
Yeah, there's a reason the PO covered and recovered the roof with that stuff.
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ladywendolyn
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1964 Golden Falcon
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Post by ladywendolyn on Apr 24, 2014 17:58:20 GMT -8
Easier to peel the roof off and replace than try and scape it I think
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 25, 2014 14:58:47 GMT -8
I guess he was just sweeping it under the rug, so to speak.
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bmxovich
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1952 Airfloat Skipper
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Post by bmxovich on Apr 25, 2014 17:55:47 GMT -8
Dang, that looks like a worthwhile project. Have you posted any interior pics anywhere? Love to see the layout in that one.
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 26, 2014 3:35:25 GMT -8
bmx, nothing original left but upper cabinets. PO cut and drilled everything else. What was there was removed and replaced with 2x4 bunks and a futon couch. So, I'm basically starting from scratch.
I posted a link on my introduction thread to an original Yellowstone ad which contains the interior layout.
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bmxovich
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1952 Airfloat Skipper
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Post by bmxovich on Apr 26, 2014 6:53:10 GMT -8
bmx, nothing original left but upper cabinets. PO cut and drilled everything else. What was there was removed and replaced with 2x4 bunks and a futon couch. So, I'm basically starting from scratch. I posted a link on my introduction thread to an original Yellowstone ad which contains the interior layout. I'll check out that add. Those are really cool trailers. I saw one in Montana a couple years ago and it quickly went on my list of trailers I'd like to own. |
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 26, 2014 17:51:41 GMT -8
I'm ok with rebuilding the interior since I got it at what I believe was a good price.
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 27, 2014 16:15:01 GMT -8
Tear down continues. Paneling just crumbles at site of water penetration. Dry now, but I still plan to re-skin roof and re-seal all seams, doors, windows, and vents.   |
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Post by vikx on Apr 27, 2014 21:59:19 GMT -8
Looks good, NY! I hope by "sealing" you mean new putty...
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 29, 2014 4:21:02 GMT -8
Looks good, NY! I hope by "sealing" you mean new putty... Yep, with the best materials I can find. |
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Post by bigbill on Apr 29, 2014 4:53:24 GMT -8
Yeah, there's a reason the PO covered and recovered the roof with that stuff. For years many people believed that the roof should be coated every couple of years to protect the aluminum. Is the ceiling removed , if so you should be able to tell what condition the aluminum is from inside then if it appears to be good you can experiment with what ever is on top to see if it is removable. All coatings are removable ,just some take more effort than it is worth while others peel off fairly easy. Your trailer appears to be built from stronger lumber than a Shasta and it looks like it is built on top of the floor. This makes your repairs more like working on a house. The rubbery stuff mention is probably silicone and can be a pain to remove but when you are done it will be worth the effort. I would start with the roof and go from there. Your statement that you plan to use the best available materials to re seal everything is great but make sure who is advising you as there are many different opinions as to what is good. I would go with things suggested hrer on the board most of us that have been playing with these a while have learned the hard way what works and what don't. |
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ny63
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Post by ny63 on Apr 29, 2014 8:09:05 GMT -8
So what is the best putty to use on the joints and around windows, doors, and vents?
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Post by vikx on Apr 29, 2014 11:18:40 GMT -8
Standardj putty tape: the kind we've had for 50 years, tannish grey with crinkly paper.
RV Butyl putty: today's putty tape of choice, whiter, stickier and crinkly paper.
Butyl tape: REAL butyl tape, very sticky, slick paper.
There are uses for all of the above. The old grey standard putty is easy to trim and seals well. Application should be at least 60*.
RV putty is very good and is sold in most RV shops today. I use 3/4 wide x 1/8 thick for windows, doors and other openings. 1 inch x 3/16 is much better for the J rail/edge trim. There will be a bit more waste, but it fills the gaps better, especially on the under side. Be sure to "seat" the J rail with a rubber hammer after the screws are secure. Trimming this putty is a little more difficult. Take your time. I use a very dull screwdriver.
Butyl tape is very handy for places that are difficult to seal. It tends to ooze in hot weather, so I don't use it exclusively.
Uses:
1. Window rubber backframe gaskets. A thin (1/2 x 1/16) strip behind the gasket is good insurance. Also good at narrow lipped door trim.
2. Tail lights. Butyl really "sticks", so I use it on our 50 Pontiac lights. They only have two small bolts attaching them to the trailer, Butyl helps glue them.
3. Skin on older canned hams. These trailers don't have a Pittsburg seam; the skin is overlapped and puttied before screwing. Roofs are done this way on the oldest hams.
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