donnymp
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Post by donnymp on Jun 25, 2013 21:53:37 GMT -8
Hi Guys! As promised I picked up this Shasta 16SC from forum talk from a lady in SoCal. I have pretty much no idea what I'm doing but she was giving it away to the first taker... which turned out to be me! I took all the photos I could think of to start and will continue to add more as you provide recommendations. Please help me try to come up with an idea of costs and time required to redo this little beauty. Right Now from what I can tell it looks like most of the inside will need to be torn out as well as some framing and new electrical. I hear I'm in good hands here so I am really excited to see what is in store for me! Donny Shasta 16SC Imgur Gallery
PS. Is it better to link the gallery like I did or copy each image's link onto the page to embed it?
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Post by universalexports on Jun 26, 2013 5:09:45 GMT -8
Congrats on your purchase, looks like it will need a lot of work, interior walls, etc, as for the price, it depends how much you are going to do yourself, doing the labor yourself will save thousands. and what level of restore you are wanting. it can range from $2,000 - $8,000. vintage parts in great shape can get expensive, $250.00 for a perfect door handle, $75.00 for a like new water fill, or a $100.00 for a like new shasta emblem, etc.
I would start looking for new parts now even if you arent ready to use them and snag the deals.
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jun 26, 2013 6:01:07 GMT -8
We needed a door handle for a Shasta compact and at $240 for the cheapest on ebay at the time....it wasn`t happening. I put a wanted post in the sale/wanted section on our old forum and a member was kind enough to donate one for the cost of shipping which was $6 if I remember correctly. So as long as your not in a hurry to finish your camper(wait for deals , you can restore it for much less. Universalexports is correct in that a regular restore will cost between $2000 to the moon depending on how outrageous you wanna get.
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donnymp
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Post by donnymp on Jun 26, 2013 6:27:12 GMT -8
Thanks guys. I was hoping for the 2k -3k range so its relieving to know it can at least be done for that with patience. What should I do first now? I bug bombed it last night and cleaners out the guys clothes and figure next step idea to try to get the title and registration cleared. Next ill probably strip the inside where take more pictures and post them so we can see the real work. What do you think?
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jun 26, 2013 6:29:08 GMT -8
Just looked at your pics. IMO its more than workable. You`ll have a real nice camper when your finished. Mr Sam (my avatar) Is one we are presently working on he`s a Shasta Compact but has all the same materials as your 16SC, down to the flowered vinyl on the cabinet door. The paneling we have (and you) is no longer made. The company who produced it went out of buisness over 30yrs ago, they were based in the midwest but I can`t remember their name, its stamped on the back of your panels. We had to replace the panels in the rear end due to rot and framing repair was nessesary. I found raw panels at Home depot for $10.80 for a 4x8 sheet 1/4 inch thick that had a close grain match. I then took a piece of the original paneling and a piece of the new paneling to a friend who mixes and works at Ace hardware. He mixed me a stain to match and I used one coat of polyuathane on it and its not PERFECT but dang close that no one notices . I`ll post a few pics for you. The first thing I`d address is to cover the opening in your roof so no further damage is done. New vents are $50 at Camping world or you can buy them online for $30+. If the old ones work then just buy new vent covers (14.5 x14.5 is prob what you have)or simply throw a tarp over her.
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jun 26, 2013 6:38:53 GMT -8
Thanks guys. I was hoping for the 2k -3k range so its relieving to know it can at least be done for that with patience. What should I do first now? I bug bombed it last night and cleaners out the guys clothes and figure next step idea to try to get the title and registration cleared. Next ill probably strip the inside where take more pictures and post them so we can see the real work. What do you think? You say strip the inside...do you plan to put all new interior panels in her or only what needs to be replaced? Don`t remove all the furniture (cabinets ect) and all the interior panels at once as these along with the skin is the support in these old ladies. If you do this and there is any rotted framing (I`m positive there is) your walls will slip down past the main frame. You won`t be happy if this happens
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donnymp
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Post by donnymp on Jun 26, 2013 8:17:21 GMT -8
I wasn't sure what the right path was so I think with your suggestion I'll make sure to tarp off the openings up top until i get some vents and concentrate on fixing where there is rot once I've cleaned her up a bit. I thought I had to pull all the paneling off to determine if there were areas with hidden rot which is why i mentioned striping the inside but for now I'll make sure to leave in all the cabinets and existing framework since it provides support to the trailer. :-)
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boandsusan
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Post by boandsusan on Jun 26, 2013 10:23:35 GMT -8
The simplest and fastest way to asses rot is to open up the skin. Its much easier and 10 times faster than taking the inside panels out. We like to start with the rear end as its usually the place with the most rot.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jun 26, 2013 14:18:13 GMT -8
First thing you may want to do is straighten out the paperwork and make sure of your proof of ownership.
Second thing I would suggest is taking inventory of the undercarriage. Make sure there are not any breaks in the framing, check the spring shackles and carriers, and of course rims and tires. (Those are of course usually a given that they will need replacing to some extent.)
Next, I would highly recommend that you spend some time looking up old blogs of restores and see what you think you are capable of doing...believe me, it looks scarier than it actually is, but without a place to work or proper tools etc, it can get dicey.
I can tell you for 100% sure that the missing roof vents, in particular the one over the fridge cabinet, are going to lead you to some really serious rot, not only in the ceiling, but in the front end structure as well. I can also tell you that the absolute best way to fix it and get it all, is to remove the roof and the side skins. The way these are built is exactly the opposite of a building structure where you would peel the paneling and all off to get to the framing structure. These were held together as much by the paneling and the skins and the cabinets, as they were with the framework. (Hint: It is best to remove either the interior paneling OR the aluminum to replace bad framing, but not BOTH at once. Reason being is the structure will be easier to fit back together than it is trying to measure everything in the air...)
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jun 26, 2013 15:27:20 GMT -8
A little preview:
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donnymp
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Post by donnymp on Jun 27, 2013 13:36:58 GMT -8
Wow that's what I have to look forward to huh. Well I don't exactly have a shed to cover it but I have my driveway to work with. I'm assuming I can just tarp it when I'm done working on it? I think I'll take your advise #10 I need to clear up the paperwork and make sure my frame is good. Is there anything I'm looking for on the wheels and spring shackles and carriers (I don't even know what those are yet). The frame from when I looked just seemed to have surface rusting all over. Is there any material I should use to clean off the rust so I can see if there are any bigger issues?
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saphie113
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Post by saphie113 on Jun 27, 2013 14:14:31 GMT -8
Boandsusan- (Bo and/or Susan?) Can you tell us more about opening up the skin? Like, imagine I'm a complete idiot and know nothing at all and describe what you would do. I don't THINK mine has rot but I would like to check to avoid a roadside situation like what you (tragically) experienced. How can we peek under there without damaging anything? I saw how you had your skin curled and propped up while you were working on her, but could you give some tips for newbies? If the skin is good, how do you save it and check on what's happening underneath?
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61 Shasta
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Post by 61 Shasta on Jun 27, 2013 15:11:21 GMT -8
donnymp, as the above says, it is certainly doable. It will be a love/hate relationship and will test your patience and skills. How would I start? Since you want to assess the frame, I would have it either soda blasted or sand blasted. If you check your phone directory you may find a portable soda blast company around which will come to your house and do it. If not, you may have to take it to them. Once that is done, you can give the frame a good visual to make sure it has no problems. Same with springs shackles and suspension parts. Now, given the visible wood rot, I would simply go ahead and remove the skin, it will eventually have to come off to get at the spots you must access. Store it in a safe place because lets face it, it will be there awhile. Once it is off, you will have a clear picture of what needs to be done to get rid of the wood rot. Now, lets don't forget the floor. Since most of it is not visible, you need to crawl underneath and poke, prod and hammer to see if there are area's that have rotted. If there are, you will have to develop a plan on how to approach that issue. I wouldn't worry too much about the wheels, if they aren't cracked or warped, they can be cleaned up and powder coated to any color you choose when you get to that point. I know I am having mine done at the local tire shop (Les Shwab) for 30 bucks apiece. OK, at this point you should know what needs to be done to get rid of any rot and get the frame back in shape to accept new paneling or whatever you choose. Remember, you can't eat an elephant in one bite so in the case of the trailer, take small steps and let the last step determine the next. Hope this helps. OH and before I forget take lots of pictures, especially of details as you remove stuff. I know in my project, I never had enough photo's of details and did a lot of head scratching in the reassembly process. As you can see this whole dialogue is simply a process (one) to assess needed repairs. Once that is done then you can start thinking about the putting together part. Again, good luck.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jun 27, 2013 16:02:16 GMT -8
A couple of notes,
This model has a metal floor pan on the underside, and the floor is not accessible from underneath.
Removal of the skin on these is relatively easy, although time consuming. You would start with removal of the j-channel (gutter) and the c-channel (awning rail). They are held on with 1/4-inch hex-head screws, and I recommend starting them with a driver or a box-end wrench, to avoid rounding them, then they can mostly be taken out with a power driver.
The residue of the putty tape is removed, and the rest becomes obvious. The skin is attached along the edges beneath the channels with staples and a few nails. By pulling the staples/nails the skin should fall off....
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saphie113
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Post by saphie113 on Jun 27, 2013 16:11:59 GMT -8
That's great, thank you. Really, I feel so foolish asking for all the details but its wonderful to have.
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